altezzaclub

Well, the smaller the master cylinder, the further the pedal moves to brake, and the more leverage it has on the pads, so its easier to push. The larger the m'cyl the less it moves and the harder it is to push. An AE95 has a 14/16th" or 22mm master cyl. that's pretty much an average number. What bolt holes do you have in the booster for the KE10? That's another factor to sort out.

That depends on the caliper piston sizes. Find the area of front & rear caliper pistons, add them up, assume a cylinder of that area by 1mm and that is the volume of brake fluid you have to move. You only want the master cyl to move 5mm to do that, with a ratio of pedal between your foot and the m'cyl your foot will move four or five times as far. I expect you'll be looking at a 3/4" to 15/16th master cyl diameter. What size front discs are you looking at?? 270s?? 290s? ..or what motor are you using and is it street or competition use??

In Thailand, not that I've used, but Ebay seem pretty good with their systems for getting money back and their reputation system is important to the sellers. So long as the seller is selling quite a bit of stuff and not just a one-off I don't think they rip people.

$1700 for a brand-new car!!! You can see what Govts printing money does to the value of the currency, that inflation they induce adds up over a few years!

"Have You recently had the gearbox out, & any clutch work or replacements carried out ? " ..and if not the thrust bearing is probably worn out, or possibly the pilot bearing on the end of the gearbox input shaft. Sounds like its gearbox out time either way. Does the clutch still feel normal when its working apart from the noise? Squeals when your foot is off the pedal in neutral and goes quiet when you press it?

Get some Upol #2 weld-through primer in copper, we use it all the time on race car fabrication. Its a lot more expensive than the zinc, but they are rubbish to weld through, its just like welding galv pipe. I'd use paint stripper to start with, get all the paint off as there will be little rust-worm trails under paint that look fine from the outside. We took the driver's-side top surfaces back like this, even if the paint looked OK for 99%, underneath were little rust trails heading off in all directions. I figure it spent its life in a carport up against a wall on the passenger's side, so the drivers side was weathered.

Sure, we have it hosted here- https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/kxtqr769ojtetah/downloadfile.jpg?rlkey=ulck2pyqn6u8nd163h0awrj7w&e=1&dl=0

"You approach a big curve in the road, & the sideward force moves the oil in the sump, sideways; & the intake pickup for the oil pump, grabs some air, as it is now not totally covered with oil. An instantaneous switching of your oil pressure safety switch, turns the engine off." Actually, a hesitation, hardly noticeable but Josh picked it up in the Evo5 at the Night Tarmac Sprints in Sydney. Luckily Steve the tuner was there that night and stuck his laptop on the roof and went through the data. He expanded a few traces to milliseconds and found the oil pressure had a hiccup on some corners, and as the safety cutout was set to 48psi it cut the ignition for a cylinder or so. Its still a good idea for an accident, like the dual relay cutouts for fuel pumps in injected cars, you have to have the fuel pumps turn off when the engine stops, even with the ignition on. That was in the COR box I fitted with the 4AGE and factory loom, and now the Haltech incorporates that feature in itself. That wiring diagram looks good, it has everything you need.

Yes, BO before it goes through the ballast resistor.

It looks like there has been some electrical damage to that relay box. Have you had the car running correctly in the past or has it always had problems?

Manual gearbox? Does it start with not touching the throttle? Maybe wear in the butterfly shaft, there must be a difference between having the throttle off when the motor is off and having the throttle coming off as you lift off for gear changes. Maybe the clutch is dragging so when in neutral the idle does no work, but when in gear the drag kills the motor. The simplest would be to add a little idle throttle or timing advance and lift the idle speed a couple of hundred rpm.

"Car: 2004 ZZE122r wagon " I don't suppose its a 4WD version?? They must have come into NZ as Jap imports, like the 4WD Nissan Pulsar wagon I had.

Well, the Melbourne trip didn't happen, so its back to Blaney each day. Suspension is good enough now, the shocks are decidedly firmer than what they sell for KE70s, and now the springs are firm but not hard. The whole car rattles over rough roads still! Front springs 3kg/mm, rears stock 2kg/mm, all shocks two clicks off minimum, with 28clicks still to use. Along the way last year we had to replace the rear muffler, a three-chamber one. I bought the same one and when fitting it Josh thought my nice water-pipe tip was too small, so he fitted the same shape over the outlet, instead of inside. While we were in there we coned the outlet of the Maxima catalytic converter instead of the flat wall I had where 3" went into 2". Of course that changed the sound completely and made it much louder, and after driving around for a few months and thinking about it, I changed the downwards-pointing tip to a longer straight one. Much quieter now, I don't know if it aiming it at the ground that makes it loud, or having it too short so the sound waves bounce back up into the rear panel. The difference is hearing me turn into our cul-de-sac or hearing me turn into the street a block away, and inside the car you can carry on a conversation. More tuning due, it has a dead spot just off idle where it doesn't inject any fuel at all, according to the wideband. Its a tiny movement of the throttle, so I only ever notice it when I'm reversing into the driveway or in a mall carpark, and coming off idling it stalls on 2 or 3% throttle. It drops through that OK to idle, lifts up past it with 10% throttle on, but dies trying to hold it there, so I'm hoping a rotate of the TPS eliminates it. The Haltech asks for an input of minimum throttle and then a max, so it assigns those voltages itself. I wouldn't be surprised if the well-used TPS has a bit of carbon track worn out.

I did a quick check today and the AE86 Sprinter and the slanty KE70 have the same width from sill to sill, the same width across the rear shock pins in the boot. As long as the panels bolt straight on you're fine, scuttle, bonnet, guards, stone tray... Then doors.. but after that its dismantle and weld on for the rear quarters. So when you go to buy a spot-weld removal drill bit, buy the ones that are a solid drill with a little spike in the end on a flat cutting face. You can pilot drill with a 2 or 2.5mm bit if needed, but usually I just use a center punch to dimple the middle of the spot weld. We have replaced corners on cars, or whole fronts, and a roof or two, and the AE86 Sprinter looks a difficult roof to do, it will certainly keep you busy. I haven't read of anyone doing it on AE86DC, Rollaclub or Toymods, or a couple of other Toyota forums I have visited. Start a new topic when you get going on it, we would love to see it happen.

That's an amazing conversion, just changing the A pillars for windscreen rake and the roof would be a big job. I haven't heard of anyone on Rollaclub doing a giant body conversion like that. So they kept the Charmant floor pan and replaced the whole body above it. I suppose they had two wrecked AE86s, one red & one black, and a Charmant for a clean VIN number. These diagrams exist, although I've never chased one for an AE86. I'll run a tape over the Sprinter tomorrow.