ancullen Posted May 24, 2007 Report Posted May 24, 2007 This car is going to be awesome!!! Are you going to bump the compression up at all to go with the new cams? 9.4:1 (standard AE82 bigport) just seems too low to really take advantage of the cams. If you are planning on changing it, will you go with new pistons, thinner head gasket, or a block/head deck? Quote
BiGGy Posted May 24, 2007 Author Report Posted May 24, 2007 This car is going to be awesome!!! Are you going to bump the compression up at all to go with the new cams? 9.4:1 (standard AE82 bigport) just seems too low to really take advantage of the cams. If you are planning on changing it, will you go with new pistons, thinner head gasket, or a block/head deck? Yes compression will be the only thing holding the car back after all this, we have already shaved 3/1000 of an inch off but this is very small. We are on a budget on the car so new pistons will come later, we are not sure yet on how much compression to add to it now but shaving the head will be the way we will do it at this time. We are thinking around 30/1000 inch will take it up past 11.1 we have to take into consideration the porting we did that has taken compression away. The head guy told us not to shave but he just wants more money from us. Does anyone know what compression ratio I should run on this? I can weld alli but I'm not very good at it, I got a workmate to weld that manifold up for me. Thanks for your comments. Quote
BiGGy Posted May 24, 2007 Author Report Posted May 24, 2007 (edited) Does anyone know what compression ratio I should run on this? and how much to shave off the head to get it? We are limited to bowser fuels so I think 11:1 would be to much for 98 octane I think 10-10.5:1 would be ideal, anyone think the same? Edited May 24, 2007 by BiGGy Quote
BiGGy Posted June 3, 2007 Author Report Posted June 3, 2007 (edited) A 20v injector and a 16v one. The 16v is the bigger one. New gasket kit New high, long cams are in they are really massive, can't wait to hear them in action. Putting the head together now, fine tuning butterflies. painting water pipe bits Big story behind this pic. The axels for the cvs for the e58 lsd have to be made up to match fit. But we have decided to use camry v6 axels now as well give us a complete camry v6 cv setup. The Camry shafts are 25mm to big to fit into an ae82... so we are extending control arms and steering collum to suit. Its not that easy tho, the ae82 4age is 15mm off center compared to the v6 camry engine so we have to shift the engine 15mm to the passenger side. 2 of the 4 mounts are an easy cut and weld job, 1 came with an adjusting plate and fits fine. The driver side mount is going to be the tricky one, we will have to replate and redrill it but we will manage without any strengh loss. This will allow v6 cv shafts/axels.joints to bolt up complete. The pictue below is the wicked camber we have to play with that the control arms have caused by pushing the wheels out 25mm. stainless steel elbows were scraped because of a bonnet clearance issue we are just using 50mm stainless sleeves for the filters now. Clutch master cylinder may have to be moved still. This is my TIG welding :bash: cleaned polished and test fit with some filters. Edited June 3, 2007 by BiGGy Quote
BiGGy Posted June 3, 2007 Author Report Posted June 3, 2007 (edited) fuel rail polished and looking purdy. rocker cover lettering faced to give a nice effect. see below posts for info on the starter. One of the mounts we had to modify to make the e58 fit. don't know how this got in here, nothing to do with the car. New handbrake extension with a pushbike handle grip attached. Reference to the above post this is how much we had to extent the control arms to make the axels fit. Tie rod end from a suberu liberty will give the steering collum thread we need also. Didnt get any finish pics of this work, must of forgot. Camry cv shafts. axles are still on there way. Edited June 3, 2007 by BiGGy Quote
BiGGy Posted June 3, 2007 Author Report Posted June 3, 2007 (edited) fiberglass bonnet almost done. full worklog can be read here. Edited June 3, 2007 by BiGGy Quote
GZE82 Posted June 3, 2007 Report Posted June 3, 2007 what an awesome project, looks like hela fun 82 love :bash: Quote
Medicine_Man Posted June 3, 2007 Report Posted June 3, 2007 What is the G-O with the starter motor? Quote
BiGGy Posted June 3, 2007 Author Report Posted June 3, 2007 (edited) What is the G-O with the starter motor? e58 box has the starter moter mounts on the other side to a standard ae82 box. Not only that but the stock starter didnt line up to the new mounting holes, lucky we have a wrecked ae101(where this box was originaly out of) at the local wreckers. We had to cut a new hole in the bell housing spacer plate, grind about 5mil from the block and redirect a water pipe around it to make the little bugger fit. But we tested it with a 12v batery and it turns the engine sweeet, so it was all worth it. I'm going to add some descriptions to each pic now i got the time. Edited June 3, 2007 by BiGGy Quote
Medicine_Man Posted June 3, 2007 Report Posted June 3, 2007 Going to have enough space to put the engine mount on? Quote
BiGGy Posted June 3, 2007 Author Report Posted June 3, 2007 Going to have enough space to put the engine mount on? yes we have already tested the mounting. ive added comments about the mounting next to the pics. Quote
demuire Posted June 3, 2007 Report Posted June 3, 2007 Looking really good :bash: Something I saw on one of the other rally forums that I thought you might be interested in - what they did was they raised the gear lever so that it sat closer to the steering wheel (to reduce time your hand is between the steering wheel and the gear stick). Looked like a really easy mod, apparently all they did was make a spacer plate to go under the gear selector frame, no modifications to the cables or anything. They also had a hydraulic handbrake lever that was mounted vertically next to the steering wheel (the slave cylinder was next to the transmission tunnel). This was all in a Mitsubishi Mirage Cyborg R. Very very cool. Quote
BiGGy Posted June 3, 2007 Author Report Posted June 3, 2007 Looking really good :bash: Something I saw on one of the other rally forums that I thought you might be interested in - what they did was they raised the gear lever so that it sat closer to the steering wheel (to reduce time your hand is between the steering wheel and the gear stick). Looked like a really easy mod, apparently all they did was make a spacer plate to go under the gear selector frame, no modifications to the cables or anything. They also had a hydraulic handbrake lever that was mounted vertically next to the steering wheel (the slave cylinder was next to the transmission tunnel). This was all in a Mitsubishi Mirage Cyborg R. Very very cool. Very good idea with the gear stick ill look into that. I don't feel a short shifter is really needed but that mod will do allot. We have been looking into a hudrulic handbrake setup for a while. We are thinking of a duel handbrake setup one for each wheel with a clip to operate both at the same time if wanted. My father had this setup in his mini and it worked well when you get the hang of it. Will definitely be doing a handbrake upgrade soon for the time being this handbrake extension is vertical right next to the gear shift and should be much better then the stocky for now. (actually atm we can't get the rear brakes to work at all since our pad change its got as really stumped) Quote
BiGGy Posted June 4, 2007 Author Report Posted June 4, 2007 Working on the car everyday now, till we finish this conversion ill be updating every day to help me remember everything(for my own records too). The rest of the cv assembly arrived today, recond v6 camry hub axles. Bolted up to the hubs. And completely bolted up. both sides. This is how far the engine needs to shift. Its more like 10mm(the engine is just resting on the cross member with no mounts). In a street car we wouldn't even worry about shifting it, but in a rough racing environment we can't risk the shaft smashing into the gearbox on an impact, we really need that play in the shafts to be safe. Mounts shouldn't take to long, welding 2, replating 1 and overplate rewelding another, we just need to buy some new mounts now. This is an adjustable strut top off an old commodore we grabed form the wreckers, we are going to fit them to the strut tops and re drill the towers for them to fit. These will help us adjust the insane camber back if we need to. A better shot of the control arm extension. This will be fully welded when everything is in place before the next race. Quote
BiGGy Posted June 5, 2007 Author Report Posted June 5, 2007 Today I took the engine back out of the car, gave it a degrease bath and pulled off the stock head to get ready for the new one. Top dead center is set on the crank to guide the basic cam timing. Pistons look fantastic, and so does he head gasket, no seal problems of any kind. Priced some engine mounts today, surprised they are in the high 300-400$ mark. We decided to take the mounts off the spare car and use them till they snap, they look fine for wear atm. Quote
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