Dxaqta Posted June 12, 2007 Report Posted June 12, 2007 No probs, ill get some more pics and a description for you to do it, its not that hard to do. thanks champ, i think i have an idea how u did it, just wanna make sure ;) keep up with the project cheers matt Quote
BiGGy Posted June 12, 2007 Author Report Posted June 12, 2007 Just realised that your intake manifold would be almost perfect for my 4A-GZE when I fit my quad throttles. I don't suppose you're interested in taking on a paying customer for a similar manifold to this and a plenum chamber??? Love the progress by the way! Yes this is possible, it wont be cheap though. I could get a quote for you. So you want a plenum that goes from your s/c to an even 4 throttle bodies? And then the quad runner adaption into the head? Quote
ancullen Posted June 12, 2007 Report Posted June 12, 2007 (edited) Yep, that's it. The quad runner adaptor has to bend upwards like yours do, possibly a bit more, to clear the supercharger though. And the throttles will be attached to a bigport head, but it will be receiving a port and polish to have as much flow as possible. The throttles will most likely be silvertop versions (42mm diameter versus 45 of the blacktop version). I'm not sure what the plenum volume will need to be, or if it even matters that much. The plenum will be attached to the throttles (obviously) and have an appropriate diameter opening for piping (with silicon joiners) to be fitted from the intercooler to the plenum. I'm not sure on the diameter yet, as I need to establish whether or not it's worth having 3" diameter, or if the supercharger will only require 2.5". Edited June 12, 2007 by ancullen Quote
BiGGy Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Posted June 13, 2007 Yep, that's it. The quad runner adaptor has to bend upwards like yours do, possibly a bit more, to clear the supercharger though. And the throttles will be attached to a bigport head, but it will be receiving a port and polish to have as much flow as possible. The throttles will most likely be silvertop versions (42mm diameter versus 45 of the blacktop version). I'm not sure what the plenum volume will need to be, or if it even matters that much. The plenum will be attached to the throttles (obviously) and have an appropriate diameter opening for piping (with silicon joiners) to be fitted from the intercooler to the plenum. I'm not sure on the diameter yet, as I need to establish whether or not it's worth having 3" diameter, or if the supercharger will only require 2.5". Ok, also I don't know where the supercharger sits in the gze or the cooler piping. If you can give a pic of your engine bay would be easier to quote. Maybe move this convo to pm. Quote
BiGGy Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) nice choice of ecu.... i have an ae82 motorkhana car, i was just wondering if you could take a pic of how u setup the hand brake extension on the hand brakecheers buddy ;) The extension consists of a length of 25mm (OD) alluminium pipe at aprox 400-500mm, this size pipe should snug fit over the stock handbrake(about 19-20mm ID). Two bends are bent in it, one to give the vertical angle up, and the other to clear the gearstick a bit. The bends were nothing specialy, stick it in a vice and bend using a larger pipe or anything that will lever it over. Watch it doesnt kink. Stock handbrake bent also, just slightly. (careful you don't rip the mounting bolts out if you do this, give them some support.) Mounting is 3 self tapping screws, max 10mm long. careful not to drill inot the button lever, just into the handle wall. You will need to drill a hole for the self tappers into alli. Make sure you have about 50mm of pipe to slip over the handbrake to take all the pressure(the screws just stop it from twisting and from falling off after the spring back when you let go of it, the pipe should be pretty tight without the screws). Check for gearstick clearance before you drill the mounting holes. This is in between 1st-2nd. So there is a good clearance there. To make the button stay on I drilled a small hole into the handbrake in between the gear cog thingy and that little stopper. A simple clip in the hole will stop it from locking up. press the button a few times and see what goes on down there, you will understand and know where to drill. Just take the clip out to lock it up again (for car trailer transport etc). The extension can be removed by taking out the screws and putting the stock slip-over handle back on.. hiding the holes. Hope ive covered everything here for a DIY to your car. Edited June 15, 2007 by BiGGy Quote
Dxaqta Posted June 15, 2007 Report Posted June 15, 2007 your my hero, thats more pictures then i expected....thanks heaps for that, ill get onto it this weekend thanks again buddy ;) Quote
BiGGy Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Posted June 15, 2007 your my hero, thats more pictures then i expected....thanks heaps for that, ill get onto it this weekend thanks again buddy ;) no probs, anytime. Any other mod on the car your interested in, just say and ill right up a short diy for it. Quote
BiGGy Posted June 23, 2007 Author Report Posted June 23, 2007 No power figures this update. Car is booked in to Haltech on Monday for Cam adjustments/haltech installation and atw dyno tune and power figures. If everything goes to plan ill post the dyno readings Monday night. For now this is what we have done last couple weekends. The front shaft extension caused the tires to scrap badly on the guards, so we used a 10 ton ram and a block of wood and flared it out about 40mm each side. It worked perfectly. before/after pic. The new manifold totally blocks the stock strut bracing. So this was a good time to start making a new one. Got some arc measurements and cut out the plates with the plasma cutter and the arc swivel, 6mm plate. Gussets made from 8mm plate cut out and bent in place, aligned, fully welded and 12mm bolt whole drilled. To join them is a piece of thick walled seamless pipe welded to a 20ton riggers turn-buckle. One of the U bolt end cut off and the pipe welded in between. Cleaned up and primed. This adjustable turn-buckle has the potentle force to rip the towers from the shassis, this will give us plenty to play with. It will give us another camber adjustment :P. Car winched onto the trailer and taken to the wheel guys. On the hoist Camber reading left right, pretty good considering the shaft extension. Everything was adjusted perfect exept for cast on passenger side which we had to re drill the bolt on the control arm to fix. Now those extension can be fully welded. Another clash with the ITB adapter, brake line fitting has to be redone, it was touching the manifold. Now it has 5mm clearance. Once again another temp weld job on the exhaust, this time its replacing all the 2inch piping with 2.5inch so its a full 2.5inch exhaust, we did this for optimal cam/dyno read outs. We will wait for the welds to rust out and go with a straight through 3inch or something along that line. Started car trailer fabrication. 3ton rating, twin axle, flip down ramps, tire and jerry can holders, draw bar tool box, hydraulic disc brakes. Got this far in a weekend by myself, not bad at all so far. I like it. More build pics can be found here. Quote
BiGGy Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Posted September 4, 2007 I kissed a guard rail on the weekend at a hillclimb. But the interesting thing is I got it on the incar. Heres a lead up vid I made on a clean run followed by the stack run. Enjoy eh :D Car will be fixed, but I'm doing up another shell as well for next year. Quote
demuire Posted September 4, 2007 Report Posted September 4, 2007 Ouch :D That's a pretty decent hit, how on earth did it push the front guard in so far but leave the wheel intact??? Quote
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