Ke35- 4agze

[ChrisGT]

Ah those pictures are UNREAL :D

 

whats next?

 

:yes:

 

Thanks for the comments guys.

 

Next is the tail shaft and handbrake cables, then i have to get my 90 degree silicon bends changed to aluminum ones as they collapse in, because they are after the throttle body. Then put the gauges in and bring it to the engineer.

[Doogs]

Looks great.

I agree about the rims, they really look the part. :D

 

Good luck at the engineers.

[sleepy92]

AMAZING chris... well done

 

looking forwards to seeing this on the road

 

keep an eye out for my new thread

[ChrisGT]

well i picked my up my tail shaft this arvo and was able to take the car for a quick spin. But havnt tested out the diff properly yet :P

 

But i did have the boost guage hooked up and my set up pulls around 12psi.

[Jono]

what ECU are you using? should make decent power on 12psi, any plans for a dyno run?

[ChrisGT]

standard ECU...anyone know what is the max boost i can run on standard ecu and injectors?

 

Will put it on the dyno next time there is a dyno day.

[roladude]

love the shape of these coupes :dance:

the colour just sets it of then there is the wheels :P

:cool:

[ChrisGT]

I have now got all my 90 degree silicon bends changed to mandrel bends, now the car idles and i also hooked up the factory cold start on the 100kw throttle body and she idles when cold!

 

Today i built an air box for the pod filter out of aluminum. it was a very fiddly job trying to get it to fit tightly. This it how it turned out, i still need to polish it and make the top for it.

 

 

 

 

 

[greenmac80]

amazing. Love the work and attention to detail!

[Taz_Rx]

Dunno if you'd like the idea or not, but instead of putting a top on it you could put some rubber on the edge of the bit you made so it seals on the bottom of the bonnet. Then get some sort of little vent in the corner of the bonnet?

[roladude]

Dunno if you'd like the idea or not, but instead of putting a top on it you could put some rubber on the edge of the bit you made so it seals on the bottom of the bonnet. Then get some sort of little vent in the corner of the bonnet?

thats a good idea. get a bonnet vent off a ford cosworth or similar.

Edited August 3, 2008 by roladude

[ChrisGT]

Dunno if you'd like the idea or not, but instead of putting a top on it you could put some rubber on the edge of the bit you made so it seals on the bottom of the bonnet. Then get some sort of little vent in the corner of the bonnet?

 

yeah i thought about that but i don't really want to cut a hole in the bonnet. I will be making a cold air duct to the box either from below the pod under the guard or by cutting a small hole just next to the head light feeding into the box.

[radrollaz]

Looking good chris, i reckon cut a hole in the inner gaurd and have a nice cold air feed running to the air box. Nice and neat :lol: I did this to an old skyline i had and i used the proper race ducting and it worked really well. :P:

[ChrisGT]

Went to see the engineer last friday. I'm using John V from Consulmotive. Brfore i saw him i fixed up a couple of things on the car. I made a lid for the airbox:

 

 

When talking to John on the phone i asked him if i need a shield around my fuel set up in the boot, all he said i needed was a sheet of steel or wood behind the back seat to block off the boot. This is because I'm going from the low pressure set up to the fuel injected high pressure fuel set up. So i cut a big sheet of 1mm steel to shape and screwed it in place:

 

 

Also my gear boot for the shifter would not bolt to the gearbox tunnel, as the owner before me cut the hole for his shifter (when he put a 5 speed in) way too big. This is what it looked like before:

 

 

I cut some steel out and made a new hole for the shifter, and sealed around it:

 

 

Now the gear boot had some steel to screw into:

 

 

So off to the engineer i went hoping that there would me no major issues with the car. Overall John was very happy with the quality of the conversion and only found some small things that i had to do to get it to pass.

 

The list he gave me to do is:

 

1. Put rear bump stops in.

2. Reinforce where the holes for the intercooler pipe where cut into the rad support. (Easy, pop-rivet a plate in)

3. Reinforce the front valiance where i cut it for the intercooler.

4. Use bolts to secure the surge tank not self tappers.

5. Move the surge tank away from the rear quarter panel (too close incase of impact)

 

So its all easy to do, everything else was fine. He did a sound test and i got 86db and went to 91db when i backed off the throttle.

 

I have already started fixing up the things on the list. I have pulled the front end off ready to make the plates for reinforcing, and i have finished moving the fuel set up.

 

 

 

I like the fuel set up a lot better this way, i put the fuel pump just behind the tank near the surge tank outlet is. With this set up i get more boot space and will be easier when it comes time to trim the boot.

[ChrisGT]

To reinforce where the holes for the intercooler pipe where cut into the rad support i designed a "8" shaped plate out of 2mm aluminum, got it cut out and i was able to pop riveted into place today:

 

Before: Was weak in the area between the two holes.

 

 

After