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Posted

Right.

 

I've got myself a new pump, and some new gaskets too. I decide today that i'll change the waterpump.

 

I never thought it'd be SO MOTHERf@$kING DIFFICULT. :P :( :) :jamie:

 

I'm stuck trying to remove the rear assembly, the peice that is connected to the heater system. I'd prefer not to strip the whole f@$king carb etc off just to remove this last part, but the pipe seems to be stuck in there somewhere. NOW I understand why mechanics charge alot for la bour, because this is royally being a pain in the arse.

 

Ideas?

Posted

The rear housing doesn't come to easily off the 4AC cause of the tube that runs down from the head and seals with waterpump housing with a o-ring. Was the front seal on the pump shaft busted or the link between the rear housing and the head/ rear heater hose?

Posted

parts people descided to tell me that after ive been assured they know what they are on about, on friday - oh we need a vin number and year range to vertify the model code for the correct part. Pfft BS, just tell me what i want to know..

 

It was worth a try; tho If its of any use, i can try to dig up some 4ac engine manuals for you? possibly Ae82.. you may just have to imagine the motor being the other way around.. thats all :jamie:

Posted

Beery, I've unhooked the hose from the firewall end because the pipe won't budge from the block end of the hose, and the whole peice is still stuck somewhere... it's shitting me off, but i'll have to give it a try again today.

 

Heh thanks matt... i went in yesterday morning and got the girl who actually knows what she's on about... got the outlet gasket but they didn't have the thermostat gasket or waterpump gasket, she said to call on monday to check because she couldn't get the info up on those two.

Posted

So with minimal arsing around I found the bolt i needed to remove today and got the whole works off the engine so I can clean it all down in preparation for the new lot of gaskets I got today for the princely sum of $20 or there abouts... genuine toyota ones too :dance:

 

HOPEFULLY once I've got it all back together with the new waterpump, new radiator and new gaskets, THE f@$kER WON'T OVERHEAT ANYMORE!!!

 

oh and a tip... the litte bracket in the above picture is actually ATTATCHED to the pipe, so that's why it wouldn't budge

 

Cheers, Matt :)

Posted
oh and a tip... the litte bracket in the above picture is actually ATTATCHED to the pipe, so that's why it wouldn't budge

Cheers, Matt :dance:

 

Much like a 4AGE, they bolt to the block to stop them moving with vibration to prevent them snapping off..

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

OK...

 

I am now Officially PISSED OFF, and f@$kING LOST AS TO WHY IT'S STILL BOILING!!! :y:

 

I put the whole cooling system back together today with all new gaskets, NO LEAKS that I can detect, BRAND NEW water pump, good coolant (even used some straight concentrate in it), fan works, filled it up with the fan going to eliminate air pockets etc. :)

 

Anyone else got any ideas, because I'm all f@$king out.... :y:

 

Oh and the car needs to be working properly by the 26th, since that's when the Century runs out of rego and comes off the road. :(

 

 

Man I'm pissed off. :'(

Edited by Nitephyre
Posted

Nick... Sitting idle, but also when driving the temp gauge soars up to boiling point fairly quickly...

I've checked the timing before and it's pretty well on 0.

 

NoPSI... i can't detect any leaks around the head at all, and it's the standard clutch fan which is spinning fine

 

that would be super swell justo :)

 

So yeah, I'm at wits end, I really am :y:

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