Redwarf Posted December 22, 2006 Report Posted December 22, 2006 I only know K motors and T motors. ie: I haven't graduated into the eighties yet. Sorry :ninja: Quote
Nitephyre Posted December 22, 2006 Author Report Posted December 22, 2006 hahaha that's ok, you're a child of the 70's :ninja: Quote
Teddy Posted December 23, 2006 Report Posted December 23, 2006 Well, first of all, Get the bottom end lined up. Worry about the head next. Set Cyl 1 at TDC compression (Timing mark on crankshaft wheel is in line with the TDC mark); theoritally if you had the belt on there, rockers on no 1 should be loose, if not, you would be 360° out *scratches head* - yes, if they are not loose, youd still need to turn the crank over 1 full turn. Now, because u don't have a belt on there, and its not marked, umm; For the head side of things; ive had to work out a few things. Look at this, for example... I want someone else to have a look first as I'm some what sure its correct.. it only took about 2 hours to work out hahha, my brains still running Windows 3.1, with 2 meg of single core ram :ninja: Quote
Teddy Posted December 23, 2006 Report Posted December 23, 2006 So yeah, once the head has valves in the correct position, and the bottom end is lined up, wack on ure belt with a new tensioner :ninja: Wind the motor over slowly twice, (crankshaft clockwise in direction) and if nothing hits inside, then u may be on a winnah :hmm: !! Merry Christmas, and enjoy the happyness of the 4ac ! Quote
Teddy Posted December 23, 2006 Report Posted December 23, 2006 btw, where ive got "cyl head valves need to be in the following" on that paint pic, (on the right hand side of the pic) those numbers (1 2 3 4) couting down the page, are the cylinders, not the firing order. Eg. 1 represents cyl one, 2 = Two etc.. :ninja: Quote
Nitephyre Posted December 23, 2006 Author Report Posted December 23, 2006 *blinks* You worked all that out :hmm: I understand half of that, heh :ninja: Why do I have to buy a new tensioner, the old one went back on fine...? Quote
Medicine_Man Posted December 23, 2006 Report Posted December 23, 2006 Why do I have to buy a new tensioner, the old one went back on fine...? Because if the bearing shits itself then it will f@$k your new timing belt and you have to do it all again.. Quote
Nitephyre Posted December 24, 2006 Author Report Posted December 24, 2006 But i'm not changing the timing belt either, all i've done is change the main oil seal, i'm just putting it back together. The belt looks fine and so does the tensioner. Do I HAVE to change it just because I took it of??? :ninja: Quote
irokin Posted December 24, 2006 Report Posted December 24, 2006 But i'm not changing the timing belt either, all i've done is change the main oil seal, i'm just putting it back together. The belt looks fine and so does the tensioner. Do I HAVE to change it just because I took it of??? :ninja: Id change it just because I can. Next time I take my gearbox off I'm changing the clutch weather it needs it or not (mainly because the gearbox is a prick to take off and a prick to get back on). Quote
Teddy Posted December 24, 2006 Report Posted December 24, 2006 At the end of the day, when was the timing belt replaced, and when is it due to get done next? You do timing belt and the idler pulley at the same time; like coolant and break fluid on toyotas. Every 24 months, or 20,000 kms. Regardless. (well, for the older style coolant...) yada yada. You end up trying it all as yet? Quote
Nitephyre Posted December 24, 2006 Author Report Posted December 24, 2006 no idea when it was replaced or when it needs to be, it's 2nd hand :ninja: nope, haven't had a chance to work on it yet... plus I don't have the money to replace the belt and tensioner at the moment so I just have to wing it, as I need the car going :hmm: Quote
Nitephyre Posted December 28, 2006 Author Report Posted December 28, 2006 Well, after 5 days of rain, i've been able to get back out and work on the car. All I have to say is "I'm A f@$king Champion" :y: Me. In the end, I didn't need all the awesome stuff that Matt did up, I simply arsed it and fixed the timing up by leaving the distributor where it was, hand cranking to line up the dots, then moving the timing belt by notches until it started with the flick of the key. I've also got the exhaust hooked up. It needs a new flange gasket, so it's a bit noisy, but it will get me to Rob Bliss to get a new one, plus the rest of the mounts put on properly. So, the bitch is going again, and I can't think of anything else engine wise I need to fix for a while. Quote
Nitephyre Posted January 6, 2007 Author Report Posted January 6, 2007 (edited) It seems i'm whoring my own thread.. woo hoo. I got my exhaust installed properly today, $200 with the 3" tip. Rob Bliss Exhausts FTW :) It turns out that the panelvan and wagon layouts for the exhaust is different, so they had to mod the pipe in a couple of places. So what better way to test out all the stuff I've fixed but to go on a glorious/nebo mountain run, and it went beautifully. I think I still need to tweak with the tuning a bit, but now I have no oil leak and the temp is staying pretty stable. On that note, does anyone have a shroud to fit an AE71 radiator, as I think that might help some more. Also, I need some info on where I can get my rails modified so I can put my Cobra seat in. Things to do now are: Find Autotechnica boss kit for my steering wheel Install stereo Install tacho dash Install centre console pieces etc Fix bumpers Carpet the back Not necessarily in that order. Cheers, Matt :y: Edited January 7, 2007 by Nitephyre Quote
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