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Posted

Hello everyone! I have a KE30 sedan (RHD), did a KE70 front knuckle + braking system swap on it. Everything went smooth, replaced the tie rod inner and outer, pitman arm, lower arm, stabilizer link, absorber and so on but here comes the problem, my camber suddenly becomes negative, might be just a slight change but I'm here trying my best to make it right. Any suggestions on how i can fix it without bending (pressing) any things?

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Posted (edited)

Hi, Good to see You on here again.  How's that 4K engine going ?  Did You eventually find your fuel pump problem, & fix it, or fit a new one ?

The best fix for your negative camber issue, is to put adjustable camber top plates, to anchor the strut top bearing assembly.

T3 has what You need . . . .

https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ke30

I've had mine for years & years, & once I got it set up, with a small amount, of positive camber, I've never touched it since.

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The additional way to add more negative camber, is to fit longer lower control arms, although you'd be  lucky to find them, these days; off early Coronas & Celicas.

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
Posted

That is a lot of negative camber!  The two factors would be the length of the lower control arm, and the stub axle angle on the bottom of the strut.

I don't know enough about KE30 suspension to tell you which is wrong, but I'd be checking the stub angles with a KE70 strut and a KE30 strut beside one another on the edge of a bench. The solution might be complex, bending the stub cup on the strut with an oxy torch and welding the angle in, stealing what you can by slotting the turret top holes outwards, changing the mix of struts and arms so you can use the KE30 lower control arms...

 

Posted

Eccentric bolts on the lower control arm might be enough to pull it in. You can buy them new. but just have to work out a way to make sure they stay still. and probably have to do a bit of cross referencing to find something that will fit. 

1.8 is high but it isn't extreme, if you can get it down to about 1 degree or so, that's not to bad. most cars run a bit of front negative camber by default these days. 

Or camber tops is the best way to go as above but they can be costly. 

Posted

Nah, camber bolts are for FWD-style front suspension, I don't think they fit a RWD KE70 or 30.

Strutangle.jpg.c68e1ea4eb5ce1e3b43c0d4a9d0a41ef.jpg

That 16mm is what you'd get with camber-tops, but I'm sure there is something fundamental wrong here, something incompatible between KE70 and KE30.

What is the difference in the LCA length between the two suspensions? Are you using the shortest of the two lower control arm pairs?

Posted (edited)

This is a complex subject, as much of the changes to be made, are a conditional, on what You want to achieve.

Here is a link that will take You to a wealth of subject matter, on the web, regarding this subject.

Google Search Listings

Click on videos, as they are more dynamic, in terms of understanding this subject.

For instant; the first video, is intersting material; but is really only for those in motor sport, who are into drift racing.

The whole McPherson strut system, is a bit of a compromise, in many ways, as the top pivot point does not move dynamically, as the suspension goes up & down, as did the older double wishbone type, of front suspension.

The other point, is that not all the McPherson front struts, used in early Toyotas, had the same KPI (king Pin Inclination) angle, as Altezzaclub, has mentioned.

I know, as I spent several frustrating weekends, learning about this, when I originally fitted Celica RA65 struts to a KE-30, with Corona lower control arms. 

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/63524-ke-3055-brake-upgrade/#comment-636927  

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

Edited by Banjo

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