No spark

[Banjo]

If You haven't got a strobing timing light, it is a very good investment. Setting the timing dynamically, using a bit of "white-out" on the two timing marks on pulley & cam sprocket cover, makes it so easy, & accurate.  On top of that you can see whether the automatic advance mechanism is working properly, as you increase the RMP.

Best investment ever.

Cheers Banjo

[ke55rolla.]

11 hours ago, Banjo said:

If You haven't got a strobing timing light, it is a very good investment. Setting the timing dynamically, using a bit of "white-out" on the two timing marks on pulley & cam sprocket cover, makes it so easy, & accurate.  On top of that you can see whether the automatic advance mechanism is working properly, as you increase the RMP.

Best investment ever.

Cheers Banjo

Yeah mate we do have one just want to get it moving which will happen tomorrow and then timing will be done.

 

I am also having troubles with fuel and temp gauges. Is there anything that could stop it. I have 2 different fuel senders and neither  of them work

 

 

Cheers ke55rolla

 

[altezzaclub]

Does the gauge go to 'Full' if you earth out the sender unit wire at the fuel tank with ign on?

If it does, then the problem is in the sender unit.

If it doesn't then the problem is not in the sender unit.

Same with temp gauge, should go to 'Hot' with ign on and earthed out if the problem is in the sensor.

If they don't go full then the problem is wiring, the instrument cluster, or the voltage reducer that gives them about 4V to use.

 

[ke55rolla.]

10 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

Does the gauge go to 'Full' if you earth out the sender unit wire at the fuel tank with ign on?

If it does, then the problem is in the sender unit.

If it doesn't then the problem is not in the sender unit.

Same with temp gauge, should go to 'Hot' with ign on and earthed out if the problem is in the sensor.

If they don't go full then the problem is wiring, the instrument cluster, or the voltage reducer that gives them about 4V to use.

 

Thanks mate they don't work with igniotn on at all

 

 

Cheers ke55rolla

[Banjo]

The common thing between fuel guage & temp guage, is that neither of them work off 12 volts, as that varies in a car, & these are guages; that You want to be accurate. On the back of the instrument cluster, is a small voltage regulator that holds the voltage constant to the fuel & temp guages. The voltage varys from model to model, but they are usually about 7-9 Vdc.  They are prone to burning out.  The voltage regulator is in this spot, because this lower voltage is fed to both meters. The wiring to the temp sensor & fuel thank level sensor, only change the resistance of the sensors connection to ground/chassis/earth.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73224-that-pesky-little-guage-voltage-regulator/#comment-708505

Cheers Banjo

Edited February 16 by Banjo

[ke55rolla.]

Thanks banjo I will try it

 

 

Cheers ke55rolla

[ke55rolla.]

Hey guys am now having clutch troubles. It won't engage. The clutch still has plenty of life left but won't engage

 

 

Cheers ke55rolla 

[Banjo]

We will need a little more info than 

Quote

It won't engage"

To be able to assist You.

Questions:

Did this happen suddenly, or has been there a while, but has gotten harder & harder, recently "to engage" ?

I presume by "it won't engage", You mean You can't put it into any gear ?

Has the gearbox been out of the car recently ?

I'm presuming the clutch is the cable operated one ?

If it happened suddenly, then the most common cause is the little "C" clips that are used to adjust the clutch free play, on the firewall, (where the clutch cable comes through), have broken.  Very common problem !  Used to happen to me regularly, until I got sick of it, & modified the arrangement.

Inspect the "C" clips & come back, & let us know what You find. Take a photo & post it here, if possible.

Can be solved without converting to a hydraulic arrangement, which is a complicated procedure. 

If You do find the "C" clips have broken, then remove the clutch cable & sheath from the car.  Check whether the inner cable moves freely in the outer sheath. If it tight, then place clutch outer cable end in a vice, & let it hang. Then add light oild to the little gap between inner & outer, & jiggle the inner cable up & down, until it's totally free. Sometimes, if it is really bad, You'll have to let the oil seap, down the inside over night. I've sat there doing it for 45 mins until it eventually came free.

Let's know, if my guess is right, & we'll go from there.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

[altezzaclub]

The 'C' clips also chop the alloy stops out of the cable, the bits that hold the 'C' clip in a  groove.  The answer is to pack a spacer or a few washers against the firewall to push the cable out as far as you want it, usually by pulling on the outer cable. Then to keep it there screw a hose clamp hard up against the 'C' clip so it can't jump forward. As the inner cable stretches over the years you need more spacers, I had about 8mm behind mine.

Another odd one was a finger in the clutch plate breaking and jamming behind the next finger around. That was only a few years old, hardly worn at all, but the only answer was a complete new kit.

[ke55rolla.]

29 minutes ago, Banjo said:

We will need a little more info than 

To be able to assist You.

Questions:

Did this happen suddenly, or has been there a while, but has gotten harder & harder, recently "to engage" ?

I presume by "it won't engage", You mean You can't put it into any gear ?

Has the gearbox been out of the car recently ?

I'm presuming the clutch is the cable operated one ?

If it happened suddenly, then the most common cause is the little "C" clips that are used to adjust the clutch free play, on the firewall, (where the clutch cable comes through), have broken.  Very common problem !  Used to happen to me regularly, until I got sick of it, & modified the arrangement.

Inspect the "C" clips & come back, & let us know what You find. Take a photo & post it here, if possible.

Can be solved without converting to a hydraulic arrangement, which is a complicated procedure. 

If You do find the "C" clips have broken, then remove the clutch cable & sheath from the car.  Check whether the inner cable moves freely in the outer sheath. If it tight, then place clutch outer cable end in a vice, & let it hang. Then add light oild to the little gap between inner & outer, & jiggle the inner cable up & down, until it's totally free. Sometimes, if it is really bad, You'll have to let the oil seap, down the inside over night. I've sat there doing it for 45 mins until it eventually came free.

Let's know, if my guess is right, & we'll go from there.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

It just won't engage and hasn't since we got the car started the other day

 

Gear box was off engine a few months ago and the clip is still there on the firewall. Yes it is a cable clutch still but one engage any gear whilst it's running

 

 

Cheers ke55rolla

Edited February 19 by ke55rolla.

[ke55rolla.]

23 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:

The 'C' clips also chop the alloy stops out of the cable, the bits that hold the 'C' clip in a  groove.  The answer is to pack a spacer or a few washers against the firewall to push the cable out as far as you want it, usually by pulling on the outer cable. Then to keep it there screw a hose clamp hard up against the 'C' clip so it can't jump forward. As the inner cable stretches over the years you need more spacers, I had about 8mm behind mine.

Another odd one was a finger in the clutch plate breaking and jamming behind the next finger around. That was only a few years old, hardly worn at all, but the only answer was a complete new kit.

 

 

Thanks mate I will also try and see if it is my clutch falling apart this weekend or tomorrow or something

 

Cheers ke55rolla 

[altezzaclub]

Just lie underneath and make sure the arm going into the bell housing-

A- Starts off just touching the pressure plate.

B-moves its full stroke when someone presses the clutch pedal.

If it does, then its gearbox out time as the problem is in the clutch itself. That clutch plate with the broken finger was like that, or if I was in a gear it shuddered badly when the clutch took up.

[ke55rolla.]

20 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

Just lie underneath and make sure the arm going into the bell housing-

A- Starts off just touching the pressure plate.

B-moves its full stroke when someone presses the clutch pedal.

If it does, then its gearbox out time as the problem is in the clutch itself. That clutch plate with the broken finger was like that, or if I was in a gear it shuddered badly when the clutch took up.

Yep I will check mate but also with adjusting the clutch alot it has become better but not full clutch still 

 

Cheers ke55rolla 

[altezzaclub]

If you have a full swing of the arm going into the the gearbox and its not releasing, then it is gearbox out time.. 

When you start it up in 1st gear, does it creep?  Will it start without jerking forward? If it starts in gear, where does the clutch pick up, as soon as it is lifted off the floor or further up?

Sounds like a clutch plate or pressure plate problem. Even something simple like rust on the gearbox input shaft can cause the clutch to drag, or if the shaft is dry and dirty so the plate can't move a mm or two.

[ke55rolla.]

I now have a clutch boys and girls

 

Thanks for the help banjo and altezzaclub. I'm so happy right now

 

Thanks and cheers ke55rolla