No spark

[ke55rolla.]

I have no spark coming out of my coil on my 79 ke55. Have tried everything to get spark out of it. The coil is only about 18 months old and worked previously. The only thing that I have done is put another 4k motor in with a 5speed manual, the car was previously auto. The car was running with the auto in it but now won't get any spark. I'm using the original harness to the car. Can anyone think of why I'm not getting any spark

Edited January 25 by ke55rolla.
Couldn't spell

[Banjo]

Welcome aboard !   I hope we can assist You; & I think we can; because your problem is a common one, when auto transmissions, are replaced with a manual gearbox..

The manual gearbox has no interaction with ignition system, but the auto transmission does. The auto transmission has an interlock contact, which only allows you start the engine, when it is not in drive.

You will have place a bridge, or connect these two wires together permanently, so that your engine will start. There is a thread on this forum about it, & I'll look it up, & place a link in my reply here to you.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/#comment-590797

Alternatively, you can take the "earth/ground" side wire off the start relay, & connect it permanently to the chassis. The start relay, is commonly down on the chassis rail, in the engine bay; directly below the carby.

Cheers Banjo

Edited January 24 by Banjo

[ke55rolla.]

Thanks banjo for that.

I have already looked at the wires and connected them together like the link says but I still have no spark and if there is any spark it is only very very light spark some times when it's touching metal. No one that I knownthat works on old cars has been able to figure out why there is no spark coming out of the coil. The ballast resistor is connected and has power using the wiring that is specifically for the ballast resistor. The ballast resistor is connected to the coil coil has all of the factory wiring out of the harness connected. It has the positive wring coming out of the harness connected and the negative wire connected. But it was all working about 3 months ago when the old engine came out.

Cheers ke55rolla

[ke55rolla.]

Hey banjo what trans are you running to because I'm running a k50 from a ke55 and I will have to cut a hole in more towards the front of the tunnel to make it work along with get a custom trans mount made. 

 

Cheers ke55rolla

[Banjo]

Quote

 and if there is any spark it is only very very light spark some times when it's touching metal.

I'm presuming your Rolla still has a single coil ignition, controlled by the points in the distributor.  There are numerous posts & threads on this forum, regarding ignition systems that "don't work".   For starters I suggest shorting out the ballast resistor, & see if it starts.  That's what the car does uatomatically, when you turn the ignition key, so there is no issues there in shorting it.

A number of us have carried out auto to manual conversions; & as You've found there is a bit more to it, than just changing the gearbox over. Yes the hole in the tunnel, will have to be opened up, in the forward area, to accept the 5 speed K50 gearbox.   Yes the rear mount will have to be extended downwards, but you can use a KE55 cross member, & space it down at the mounting ponits at the end.  Usually, the biggest problem is getting a set of manual pedals, which can be a bugger to fit; particularly if You are "large of build".  Then there is the question, do I go all the way & put in a cable clutch, or a full blown hydraulic system.

Have a search through our forums, & I'm sure You'll find most of the answers, You are looking for.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68005-lots-of-ke55-sedan-questions/

Cheers Banjo

Edited January 24 by Banjo

[ke55rolla.]

Thanks banjo for all the help so far mate I will have a look through the forums and see what I can find. 

 

Cheers ke55rolla

 

[altezzaclub]

" it is only very very light spark some times when it's touching metal."

There's also the points and condensor to consider, a failing condensor will only charge the coil slightly and then discharge it with a weak spark.

Did that distributor come from the old engine or the new engine? Could you swap the old points and condensor into the new distributor?

[Banjo]

There are plenty of videos available on line, to show you how to test a tradional automotive ignition coil.

Here is one . . .    https://youtu.be/d775du1s3kU

Cheers Banjo

[ke55rolla.]

Thanks altezzaclub 

The car is running a points distributor it came off the engine that came out of the car and the distributor was working when it was put on the new engine.

 

Cheers ke55rolla

Edited January 25 by ke55rolla.
I'm stoopid caant speell

[Banjo]

Temporarily short out the ballast resistor, & try & start it. That actually should happen whilst the ignition key, is in the start position, but may not now be wired correctly, to do that.  Another possibility, is that the ignition coil has been replaced at some time with a 12V one, rather than a coil designed to be used with a ballast resistor, which gives full output, at a lower voltage (9-10V typically) when used in co-ordination, with a ballast resistor.

Cheers Banjo

Edited January 26 by Banjo

[ke55rolla.]

Thanks banjo I will try and see what happens if I do Temporarily short out the ballast resistor, & try & start it.

 

Cheers ke55rolla

[ke55rolla.]

Hey guys I have tried everything I can still can't get any spark out of the coil. But I am only getting about 9-10 volts from the wires going into the resistor. So is there anything else I should be looking at?

[altezzaclub]

Take off the distributor cap, turn the motor by hand until the points are open, turn the ignition on and put a flat-blade screwdriver across the points gap. The spark you see is what the coil should work on, a tiny spark means something is wrong before the points, a fat spark means something is wrong after the points.

[ke55rolla.]

 

20 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:

Take off the distributor cap, turn the motor by hand until the points are open, turn the ignition on and put a flat-blade screwdriver across the points gap. The spark you see is what the coil should work on, a tiny spark means something is wrong before the points, a fat spark means something is wrong after the points.

Hey mate I will try that and see what happens 

[ke55rolla.]

Hey mate just tried it no spark at all. What's that mean?

 

Cheers ke55rolla