My Ke55 (heaps Of Pix)

[ROLLLA]

Ok guys n gals, ive since ripped that 4k out cos it was just getting too unreliable. A mate found an absolutely overrated 3k and box for $50 so thought id slap the engine in meanwhile until i save more for my engine conversion. I'm 99%sure ill be going the sr20det cos I'm sure i can get a halfcut very cheap. With budget being the basis of this project, i ended up giving the engine i took out plus the good box and blown engine and box and some other parts to a wreckers. In return he gave me a set of 2 front mitsubishi GTO seats. So basically ive scored a overrated engine and GTO seats and its only cost me $50. lol So i put them in last night with the help of my mate fattony on this forum. Ill take some pix today and post em. Oh and the drivers seat is electronic which ive hooked up and works a treat haha. Wonder how many KE55's have that :wink:

[ROLLLA]

Ok heres the pix as promised. Suprisingly the rolla rails almost bolted straight up only with a few minor mods.

 

Edited March 30, 2007 by ROLLLA

[ROLLLA]

Oops i almost forgot to show yas the clean engine i bought. Note that what you see is how i bought it, Orange block and all lol. Oh and yes my engine bay is still yellow but ill spray it when i decide to put an engine in there that actually goes quick :wink:

 

[Rolla__Boy]

Holy crap!! Has that engine actually ever been started?? haha

 

Love those seats dude, and electric!!! Nice work.

 

Man I love this car

[ROLLLA]

haha thats what i thought too, well it had the head rebuilt and points. It was in a ke20 and hadnt been in the car for over a year. The guy just cleaned it up and looked after it. Only prob is it needs a sump gasket so ive ordered one in from repco picking up today. Oh and i just put my carby on it cos it was bigger and more reliable. Slapped the engine in and fired up with the first turn of the key.

[ROLLLA]

Hey guys, after throwing the replacement engine in ive decided to hook up a thermo fan to cool down the motor a bit more on hot days or if i decide to go back to dragtag to do more burnouts. Plus i was bored and had the fan sittin there. Oh and i had a spare rocket switch that wasnt doin anythin either haha. Anyway heres some pix if yas wanna look at what i do when i get bored.

 

 

[ROLLLA]

Well i dunno if anyone ere remembers but i came onto this forum searching if anyone had any rollas wif v6's in them. At the time there was no one on here that had done the conversion. I copped a whole lot of bagging and a whole lot of interest at the same time. But after months of weighing up options of putting an sr20det ive decided I'm gonna go the cheap and nasty option. Yep the V6. Oh and to make matters cheaper, i picked up this baby for only $150 haha. 92 vp.

[Des]

Autogomagic or manual ?

[ROLLLA]

its auto.

[Des]

Oh well, They still pick up well and slam ya in the seat. All i can say is hook up the speed sensor or get the ECU re tuned.

[ROLLLA]

why do ya recommend that?

[Des]

The T700 uses a speed sensor to run the speedo and lock up converter in the tranny.

 

So if the speed sensor isn't hooked up you will drive along and the check engine light (if installed) will come on with a code 24 (speed sensor disconnected) and you will lose closed loop idle mode, It will either stall under hard braking and i mean hard or hunt for idle some times and just be a bitch at idle and take off. The idle stepper motor tries to take over the idle but it is a bit slow to react.

 

Also if its disconnected the torque lock up converter wont lock up which acts like a 5th gear so it will rev a little higher at 100kph but thats not really a worry anyway as high km engines generally have f@$ked lock up clutches anyway.

 

The speed sensor sends a pulse per kilometer value to the commodore cluster then that divides it by 4 i think then sends the signal to the ECU so since i don't think you will be using the commo cluster you will run into the above listed problems.

 

A re tune up here in Brisbane cost $150 which solves the engine light and idle problems straight up but cannot fix the the lock up converter. PM me for more re tune info as he can send you a re tuned memcal.

 

Des :)

 

Oh yeah if you remove the speed sencer from the tranny a normal speedo cable fits in providing its the right thread and sized cable.

Edited July 6, 2007 by AE70

[NickZ]

yes all that is correct about the speed sensor, but having the complete car you should be able to use it all, But in mine i used a w58 5 speed so no speed sensor, i just drilled a 4mm hole into the butterfly and that fixed all problems, i don't have the check light conneced either :)

 

But the VP was a good score, i don't know how the others did the exhaust manifolds, but mine wouldnt clear the steering box, if you have cast manifolds you have to get hold of the older VN manifolds that are steel, the drivers side standad exhaust from the manifold needed moding as it hit the steering arm at about 3/4 lock, the passenger side will need changing as that will hit the steering too, i did sit my motor as far back as i could.

 

Anyway let me know if you have any questions on the conversion.

[ROLLLA]

do you think if i sit my motor a fraction forward that this will solve that problem?

 

yes all that is correct about the speed sensor, but having the complete car you should be able to use it all, But in mine i used a w58 5 speed so no speed sensor, i just drilled a 4mm hole into the butterfly and that fixed all problems, i don't have the check light conneced either :)

 

But the VP was a good score, i don't know how the others did the exhaust manifolds, but mine wouldnt clear the steering box, if you have cast manifolds you have to get hold of the older VN manifolds that are steel, the drivers side standad exhaust from the manifold needed moding as it hit the steering arm at about 3/4 lock, the passenger side will need changing as that will hit the steering too, i did sit my motor as far back as i could.

 

Anyway let me know if you have any questions on the conversion.

[NickZ]

yeah it might, The problem maybe the steering drag link hitting the bellhousing and the fact your putting all the weight at the front of the car. I think its worth the little extra work to get is as far back as you can, i also had to bend the join lip along the top of the firewall down flat to clear the throttlebody.

mine also being a manual uses a different starter motor and the passenger side engine mount had to be moved forward abit more to clear. The auto one should fit without that being done unless its a reduction geartype.

Most of the wiring for the ECU is seperate from the rest of the car so no need to cut it. I pulled all the wiring from the car but left all the connectons on the engine so i didnt have to worry about getting it all back on.

 

I have the VN wiring Diagrams for the ECU and can send them, there shouldnt be too much difference between the cars.

some of the commos had intank EFI pumps and some external with a intank lift pump. Mine had a internal EFI pump, I used that in my tank but found hard cornering it would suck air, so i put in a shurge tank setup with a external pump.

 

Ive got mine to handle very well now after putting in some 8kg coilovers and adjustable camber tops with 15" wheels and 195x50 tires it goes around corners very well, no understeer.

So if anyone tells you it wont handle, don't listen as they don't know what they are talking about. The only thing i don't like is the steering is a little heavy but thats mostly because ive got a locker diff.

Edited July 7, 2007 by NickZ