altezzaclub Posted April 9, 2022 Report Posted April 9, 2022 "Jet advice for weber 32/36, anyone have one or know a bit about them? " A common question, with no known answer that I've seen. Most of them came of Ford Cortinas or Pinto, so a bit bigger, and most people run them as they are after asking exactly the same question. Here's the search you should have done... https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/75797-weber-3236-4k-jetting/?tab=comments#comment-720870 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/52246-2836-dcd-weber-carburettor/?tab=comments#comment-532530 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72740-too-much-white-smoke-after-installing-a-new-weber-3236-on-a-4k/?tab=comments#comment-704833 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70427-rejetting-aiisin-vs-weber/?tab=comments#comment-688504 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72230-weber-3236-into-5k/?tab=comments#comment-701318 A 28/36 would be better I'd expect. Just remember that Webers don't alter the mixture with the idle screw, only the flow. For the extractors, a common trick is to measure the thickness of the inlet & exhaust flanges, cut a washer of the right thickness in half & glue a half onto another set of washers. When you fit the manifolds the half-washers take up the difference in flange thickness. Another even easier one, is to get a length of wire the right thickness and put bit behind the washers as needed. When you've done it all and its too slow, look around for some bike carbs, a quad set off a Gixxer.... I always regret not getting around to fitting a set just to see how fast it was. Quote
Guvna Posted May 28, 2022 Author Report Posted May 28, 2022 (edited) Progressing Slowly, Ready to refit the intake manifold and header. Had some machining done to get the fitting better. New studs and bolts tommorow. Had the intake bead blasted as well as a few other bits and pieces inc bumper mounts, water inlet, fan pully, headlight surrounds, horns. New fan with 1 3/4 inch adapter ready. slow going but enjoying it. hope you like it so far, regards Guvna * testing manifolds before machining Edited May 28, 2022 by Guvna Quote
Guvna Posted May 28, 2022 Author Report Posted May 28, 2022 Ready for new water pump, thermostat inlet / outlet being blasted, New fan Ready Quote
parrot Posted May 28, 2022 Report Posted May 28, 2022 I reckon you will use 10hp driving that fan! Quote
Guvna Posted May 29, 2022 Author Report Posted May 29, 2022 13 hours ago, parrot said: I reckon you will use 10hp driving that fan! really? bugger..... Quote
Banjo Posted May 29, 2022 Report Posted May 29, 2022 Hi Gavin, Quote really? bugger..... No offense, but agree with Pete totally. Even the standard plastic fan, reduces power from the engine, that should be going to your back wheels. Bear in mind what the fan is for . . . It is there to force air over the engine, when your Rolla is not moving forward on the road, when normally, the force of the air passing over the engine, without fan, is totally sufficient to completely keep the engine at normal operating temperatures. It appears you have a large capacity aluminium radiator, which will be far more efficent at remove engine heat that the original factory radiator, from bygone years. My honest suggestion, would be to put the water pump pulley back on, & dice the fan you have there altogether. Then add a simple electic fan to the rear of the radiator, which is easily accomplised, as the electric fans come with all mounting hardware usually. Check ebay, & you'll find they are freely available, to suit the aluminium radiator dimension, you have fitted.. The fan is then activated by an additional water temp sensor thermostat, that switches the fan on, once the coolant temp, rises above 90-95 deg C. I put an electric fan on my 5K & 4ks, & I have a light on the dash, which indicates when the fan has been automatically switched on. Without a word of a lie, the fan, rarely comes on. Ocassionally in hot weather, it city traffic, waiting at the lights, it will be activated for a couple of minutes, but as soon as you drive off, within 1-30 sec. it turns off. When I first fitted it, after having driven for years with an engine drive fan, it was noticeable, how much more power was available to drive the car. I'm sure others on this forum, will testify to what I am advising you. Keep us updated. Love the detail & work you are putting into this project. Cheers Banjo 1 Quote
parrot Posted May 29, 2022 Report Posted May 29, 2022 Years back I had a TA22 with a worked 2T. My mate had an identical car except his had a 2TG. He could always pull away from me on the front straight at Calder. Until one day I was pulling away from him. Drove him crazy as he couldn’t work out what new modification I had done. All I had done was removed the plastic fan during the race meeting. End of the day, popped it back on and drove home. 1 Quote
altezzaclub Posted May 29, 2022 Report Posted May 29, 2022 Yeah, get an electric fan, they not only rarely come on but makes the motor much quieter. Now I realise the roar when a 4WD ute takes off is the giant mechanical fan they use pushing air around the engine bay. What did you do about the difference in flange thickness in the inlet and exhaust manifolds? Quote
Banjo Posted May 29, 2022 Report Posted May 29, 2022 (edited) Hi Gavin, If you need any more convincing, that you should dice the standard fan, & fit an electic one; I would suggest you read through a very long thread on here, about 4-5 years old, where many thoughts & experiences were related about radiator, thermostats, fans etc, etc. We even did some tests with a temperature data logger, to see graphically, after the event, how the system & mods worked. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73676-oil-pump-failure/#comments Cheers Banjo Edited May 29, 2022 by Banjo Quote
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