New to Rollaclub

[Guvna]

Hi all, Recently bought a 1977 KE30 to play with. My first Corolla.

Been reading many articles on this site and decided to join.

I have many questions to ask, but will attempt to find answers in threads where possible.

will post a few pics here and there,

regards Guvna

[coln72]

Welcome

This is going to be weird for me as I get called Guvna all the time at work.......

[Guvna]

Hi, and thanks for the welcome Guv - or coln72?

 

regards Gav

 

[coln72]

Coln72 on here. Guvna everywhere else. To the point where workmates haven't known my real name at times........

[coln72]

Nice looking KE30 by the way. What are your plans?

[Guvna]

need to get it to idle first, its got extractors and no exhaust atm. the inlet manifold bolts are not able to be fully tightened. the manifold and header will need to come off for realignment and or modification plus new gasket.  i think the carby has been put on the wrong way around, unsure if that makes any difference?

I need to work out how to get the timing right also as it has an upgraded cam as far as i know so the timing marks aren't helpful.

so far ive ironed out many of the electrical connections to get all light, blinkers etc working.

Also got a nice set of work equips 13 x7 and 13 x6 with good offsets which makes it look great allready, will get some pics up soon

Guvna

[Banjo]

Welcome aboard Gav !  Your little KE30 looks pretty straight.  As long as you have a good rust free body, then the rest is "all fun". 

Nice area to work on it.  I can see a few late nights coming up, in there.

I'm presuming the engine is a 4K-C ?

Make sure you get hold of the one piece aftermarket inlet & exhaust manifold, & a new set of manifold studs, which are stock standard, & readily available.

If someone has had the cam out, & it hasn't been run since, then it would be a very good idea, to check the valve timing before trying to start it. If someone previously hasn't fitted the timing chain perfectly, then the valve & ignition timing could well be out.  Remove the sparkplugs, rocker cover, & dissy.  You could attach a timing disc to the front crank shaft pulley, & line it up with a marker at TDC No: 1 cylinder. Tthen turn the engine over clockwise ever so slowly, with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt, & take a note of when the No: 1 cylinder valves start to open & finish closing.  

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74148-one-piece-manifold-gasket-k-series/

Cheers Banjo

Edited April 6, 2022 by Banjo

[Guvna]

Thanks for the welcome and advice Banjo and guvna/coln72 haha

i think i have the old 2 piece manifold / gasket based on torch inspection, ordered a Permaseal EM30 one piece gasket to correct, gonna get new studs also. i think the aftermarket headers and original inlet manifold aren't friends and i will need to grind or drill the duel bolt meeting points even to accommodate the bolt to stud contact.

also, is this carby on the wrong way? does it matter? ie turn 180 degree? soz for starter in pic

regards Guvna

[Banjo]

Hi Guvna,

                 The K series engines of that era, came standard with an "Aisan" carby.  ASIAN is usually in the casting, on the outside of the bowl area.  The accelerator cable is usually on the side of the carby, closest to the rear of the engine. I'd suggest the carby on your engine is sourced from elsewhere, as it is on the opposite side to the Aisan carby.   Asian  Carby on K series Motor below

Has the engine ever been running, in it's current form, or did you buy it, as an uncompleted/finished project ?

If you remove the starter motor, & take a couple of close up pics of your carby; someone on Rollaclub, might be able to visually identify the currently fitted carby.

If the engine has been stripped & rebuilt by someone else, & never run; it would be very wise to check everything out, timing wise, before you start cranking it, indefinitely, trying to start it. Bear in mind that the K Series engine, requires the dissy to be fitted for the oil pump to work.  One of the first tests I would do, on an "unknown" engine, is to put oil in it; & with all spark plugs removed, crank it over, & check there is oil pressure.  If OK, then you can then start to  work through ignition & fuel functions.  A simple test of basic ignition operation, is to remove all spark plugs; connect one plug to the HV output of the coil; ground the base of the spark plug; then turn the engine over.  Without any compression, because the spark plugs are removed, the engine will turn over relatively quickly, & if you have a timing light, you can do a basic check of timing as one in every four (4) flashes should illuminate the TDC markings on the crankshaft pulley.  Alternatively, connect the spark plug to the output on the dissy cap, for no: 1 spark plug. 

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Banjo
adding copy

[Banjo]

Hi Guvna,

Quote

i think the aftermarket headers and original inlet manifold aren't friends and i will need to grind or drill the duel bolt meeting points even to accommodate the bolt to stud contact.

  You are totally correct !   There are four (4) of the total of six (6) manifold studs, that clamp/hold down both inlet manifold, & exhaust manifold or extractor assembly.

   

It is imperative if you are going to achieve good manifold/head seals, that not only are the mating surfaces in total alignment, but that the the outer sides are also level, so that the extra thick washers used underneath the four (4) manifold nuts clamping these "shared" joints are parallel to the head manifold surface; so equal pressure is exerted on both inlet & extractor tabs. It may require a bit of filling, on the outer sides of the tabs, to achieve the same thickness, but is very worth while, in the long run.

Also support the extractor exhaust header, to the engine / bellhousing joint area, so that any movement of the exhaust system, is not transmitted to the head/manifold joint area.

Another suggestion is to now add a bug in your exhaust extractor header, assembly, just beyond where the four pipes all join. This allows the addition of a O2 sensor later on, if you really get into the K Series engine, & want to either, just monitor your air fuel ratios, or get really excited, & want to go EFI.  The bungs come with a stopper, so even if you don't get an O2 sensor now; when you do, you don't have to remove the exhaust system to add a sensing point.

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited April 19, 2023 by Banjo
adding copy

[Guvna]

Thanks Banjo, great advice, really appreciate it.

The engine has been running after the previous owner rebuilt / modified it etc (many unknowns)

When i first got it the starter motor was cooked, so i have replaced that with new. Next i went through fuel lines and discovered the fuel pump was also shot. using advice on the rollaclub threads i also located a fuel blockage inside the tank oultet.  Fuel pump replaced with new and lines now clear with good fuel pressure to the carby.

even with the timing not right and carby not tuned, i can start it and keep it running ok but will not idle yet.

So i feel i have spark/air and fuel, although not tuned or timed correctly it runs. 

Focusing on the manifolds to eliminate potential issues there and next will be to get an exhaust fitted.

I think without an exhaust fitted, tuning and timing will not be 100% anyway. so its step by step at this stage

 

thanks again, regards Gav

 

[Guvna]

I think the carby is a Weber 32/36. i have a video from the previous owner of the engine running and sounding sweet, idleing well etc. Definitely sounds like the cam is lumpier than stock. In this video the carb is placed on the opposite way with the accelerator linkage on the windscreen side, wheras when i got it it has been changed around which makes me wonder if it is the wrong way around.

I suspect the previous owner had a fuel blockage develop at some point and didnt correct it, resulting in him killing the starter motor, messing with dizzy and carby and then giving up and selling it to me

[Banjo]

The Weber 32/36 looks like this . . .

which looks to me, very similar to yours, from what I can see.  Does it have an adaptor plate underneath it, to match it to the original K Series inlet manifold ?

The other thing to check with the Weber, is what size main & idling jets have been fitted, to this particular Weber.  I've got little or no experience with the Weber adaption to K Series motors; but the ones I have seen on-line, were side draft Webers; & I think there was a special inlet manifold for them for K series motors.  There maybe someone on here, that has this setup, & can advise what size jets they fitted.

In theory, you should be able to fit the carby either way around.  It really comes down at to which side of the carby, the accelerator cable is fitted.  The K Series cable pulls, to open the throttle, but in the case of the Weber 32/36 you have, it looks like it would have to push to open; so they have turned it 180 degrees.  Hope that makes sense.

A year or so ago, I took the fuel tank out of my 1974 2 door KE30, with the intention of fitting an in tank high pressure fuel pump, for EFI, & also building a better fuel guage sensor.  What I was not prepared for, was how much "crud" builds up in the bottom of the tank over 40+ years.  I went to great lengths to clean it out with acid, & other techniques, & it may well be, a good idea, to remove your tank, & do similar, if necessary. One thing I have learnt over the years; that those suction fuel pumps right up at the engine; are not real good at pulling fuel over such a long run, especially if the fuel filter is a bit blocked, or the lines are a bit choked, or have a tiny leak in them.  For this reason, lots of people seal off  the fuel pump hole on the side of the block, & fit an electric pump, down near the tank, so the lines from the back to the front of the car; are under pressure, rather than vacuum.

Cheers Banjo

Edited April 8, 2022 by Banjo

[RussRolla]

Welcome Guvna, Russrolla.. 😎

[Guvna]

Jet advice for weber 32/36, anyone have one or know a bit about them?

couple of pics of my new work equips 

 

regards guv