Ke20 fuel line.

[(Monk)]

Hiya all.

I'm trying to understand what purpose this fuel line serves. It leads from the tank to the engine bay then seems to terminate inside the chassis rail....? Is this correct or have I missed something?

[(Monk)]

That was a pic I took before stripping the car. This is it in its current state.... still fighting the wiring loom!

[Banjo]

The breather/overflow for the fuel tank, on the very early Rollas was fed into the channel rail at the rear of the car. On one Rolla coup I once saw, it passed right up into the roof area in a loop, (to prevent siphoning), before the end was directed into the rear floor/chassis channel.  I did not know they ever fitted fuel tank breather hose, which exited to the rail in the engine bay area.  Seems strange ?

My KE30 2 door has a fuel tank breather hose that comes to the engine bay, but enters the air filter via a non return plastic valve.  I'd do something similar with it if I was you.  

That's the valve in the pic above attached to the steering box.  A tube from there goes up to the air filter.

Cheers Banjo

[(Monk)]

Thanks Banjo,

That makes sense, the line loops up the fire wall at the steering box, across to the passenger side along the fire wall top seam then down to the chassis rail height again before termination inside the rail. Your comment about an anti siphoning measure fits... The loop would be higher than the tank at this point.

Strange Toyota has so many different methods to achieve the same result for such a simple item.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will look into a non return valve.

Cheers!

[Banjo]

Hi Monk,

                If you get a fuel breather non return valve, from another later model KE Rolla, complete with bracket, you can mount it  under the bolt on the steering box.  I might even have one floating around in the garage. I'll take a look tomorrow.

Here's a pic of Brodie's great engine bay, (Rollaclub member in S.A.), clearly showing how he just ran a tube/hose from the non return valve up & over the rocker cover,  & into the induction system.

Cheers Banjo

[(Monk)]

I think I might leave it in its factory layout and just add an inline check valve. This at least positions the end of the line on the carb side of the engine bay to mitigate having a loose hose draped over the engine. Don’t go to any trouble finding the valve please mate, I have just ordered one on eBay.

Thanks for your help Banjo!

[altezzaclub]

That's obviously the breather that goes into the charcoal canister on the KE70.  The outlet on those goes into the chassis rail.

How about running a plastic one up around the boot and out somewhere inconspicuous with that non-return valve on the end?  That's what Datsun did.

[(Monk)]

There is no charcoal canister that I’ve seen. That’s not to say a previous owner hasent removed it? It’s a Ke20 though, you mention ke70, would it be something added to the later model?

I like the idea of removing unnecessary line and dealing with it at the back of the car. Is there any advantage to having the breather vent into the induction system? I assumed it would capture any lost vapour and half my fuel bill... ;-)

[Banjo]

Venting the fuel tank to atmosphere hidden in the chassis rail, is not acceptable by any current environmental or emissions regulations.  Anything was pretty much acceptable when KE20s were built.  However, when Australia accepted the Californian emissions standard for automobiles in the late 60s/ early 70s, Rollas supplied to the Australian market changed in this area.

The Californian emissions standards at that time were the, I believe,  the strictest in the world.

There were no Charcoal canisters on KE20s.  From my knowledge, they didn't appear on Australian Rollas, until the late 70s.  My 1978/79 KE55 Couple had a charcoal canister, as standard.

If you get your "modified" KE20 inspected for registration, in any state in Australia, I'm pretty sure any astute inspector, would knock it back, if the fuel tank was vented to atmosphere, in the chassis rail.

You could do as Altezzaclub has suggested, or acquire a charcoal canister, & plumb it through that, to the chassis rail.

A quick talk to a accredited compliance engineer, in your area, would put you on the right track.

Cheers Banjo

Edited May 25, 2018 by Banjo

[ke70dave]

I'd just go to the wreckers and find the smallest charcoal canister you can find off a modern car. Cost you not much. Bolt it in, connect it up to the pipe there and the other pipe to vacuum and you are done.

[kickn5k]

On 5/25/2018 at 11:11 AM, Banjo said:

Venting the fuel tank to atmosphere hidden in the chassis rail, is not acceptable by any current environmental or emissions regulations.  Anything was pretty much acceptable when KE20s were built.  

A quick talk to a accredited compliance engineer, in your area, would put you on the right track.

Cheers Banjo

It only needs to adhere to the epa regs for year of manufacturer Banjo.

The California regs didn't come in until '74. Only two things that are needed are PCV recirc and noise. I had a look at the car today, it will be fine as it was. I run an early rocker cover with no pcv, it's vented to atmosphere and never gave me issues during rego and engineer cert.

Edited May 26, 2018 by kickn5k

[(Monk)]

Thanks for dropping by today kickin5k. I really appreciate the help mate. I will add a one way valve to be safe. 

[(Monk)]

Progress! The car is running and passed a roady yesterday with nothing more than a brake adjustment and two tyres to do. It’s a couple of months under being a two year project and it’s a great feeling to see it moving. 

The next step is going to be to build a better K motor for her that I can switch in with minimal fuss. I have a set of twin carbs stashed and am on the lookout for a motor. So my question is... 5k or 7k? Any reason not to use the 7k? (I’ve found one). I don’t think I’m chasing stupid figures but would like to aim for 100hp?

Any feedback or suggestion welcome.

Cheers

[Banjo]

Love the 8 position  rotisserie you made up & used !  Just a brilliant & simple concept.

The power output from another K series motor you put in it, will depend on what you intend to do with it, "driving wise", and whether your car rebuild has been stock, or whether you have upgraded the suspension & braking system, in any way.  100hp might be a tad too much for a daily drive; and involve extensive K series upgrade & cost, to accomplish.

The final pictured result above,  is one very sweet looking KE20.

Congrats !

Cheers Banjo

 

[(Monk)]

Hi Banjo,

The rotisserie made some particularly nasty tasks a lot easier. Simple is almost always best! The whole thing cost me maybe $60 to make and saved me endless hours on my back under the car stripping chip guard etc. 

The more I read about the 7k the more I’m leaning towards finding a 5k to start with. In theory the 5k should be more reliable at high revs?  This whole project has been about learning so I’m happy to take my time and do most work myself. I have a spare 4k I can mess round with to get my head round the motor. Then once I can find a good 5k I’m thinking a cam, twin carbs, head work. Basic stuff right...

If anyone has a complete 5k sitting round that they would like to sell, please message me. 

I have a few photos I will put up at some point of the rebuild so far. This site has been an awesome source of info during the project.