4AGE KE55

[4AGEKE55]

Installing the first line wasn't too bad. It is a significantly larger outside diameter yet still went in fairly easily once. Had to tweak a few of the bends. Glad I didn't start with stainless tube. Will be fairly easy to remake now out of stainless, but even though I had a very close copy of the original line, the extra diameter means it just won't fit back in the same way.

I decided to use the first line as the return line, then worked out a new way to send fuel. That saved a lot of bending in the pump area. That is a Bosch 044 managing to just stay higher from the ground than the floor well of the front seat.

I was thinking it would be easy to run the last section to the front since I had just done it once. Yet making one oversize line fit neatly where is doesn't is one thing, putting a second line in that was never there at the start becomes a much bigger challenge. Really wish I had a hoist for doing this. Yet the weather wasn't too bad so lying on the ground and thinking was periodically interrupted with standing around with a beer thinking. Took a lot longer than I thought and still isn't finished but is getting close.

 

[4AGEKE55]

Found some KE30 bumpers for $30 each. Better chrome than on the original bumpers plus they are KE30 without the rubber ends that I needed to replace 1 of anyway. Win Win

[4AGEKE55]

This is still a work in progress. I have a Celica RA23 tacho on the way which will hopefully sit in nicely next to the speedo. Replacing the oil pressure light with a temp and pressure gauge and a new water temp gauge is in the process of being installed. Haven't worked out where to put a new fuel gauge yet where it doesn't look out of place. 

So far I have gutted a Speco boost meter I had lying about, bit of grinding to the facia surround that came with the boost gauge, 3 holes drilled, some double sided tape and a bit of silicon and the result so far....

The new gauge is held in by only the 3 screws that originally held the clock in with no cutting or changes to the dash assembly. 

[Killar_of_giants]

I found making those fuel lines like yourself without a hoist a pain in the arse. The tabs welded to the body have that dimple in them, I crushed that dimple to make the tabs flat. That gave a little more space running the larger fuel line. With the throw on the clutch pedal, I cut the pedal in half and welded in a piece of steel moving the pivot point right to the top of the box. Cut the top off the end of the pedal just after the pivot. Obviously had to modify the top of the pedal housing to secure the pedal. May not be necessary but may help if you don't have enough throw when you get it running.

[4AGEKE55]

The pedal box doesn't look like that much work has been done but it took a long time to get it all aligned. I ended up cutting the tube out of the pedal and made a new pivot tube. The pedal was then welded to the new tube about 12mm to the left to get the pushrod inline with the cylinder. Drilled a new hole in the pedal arm to get, hopefully, the correct throw length. I then had to adjust the angle of the Cylinder against the firewall, spacing out the bottom 6mm to match the angle of the push rod. It is currently spaced out with washers yet will mill up an angled spacer plate once the concept has been proven. The adjusting rod I bought a piece of solid square steel and drilled and tapped for an approximate length to then give the correct adjustment. The stock banjo joint that came with the cylinder was about 15mm short of where the hole needed to be for the angles.

I probably should have documented what I did more but it really just evolved until it worked. If I have to pull it out I will do measurements and backwards engineer it. Assuming it works.

I still haven't actually tested it, so I hope I have enough throw. From measurements it should have around 90% travel on the pushrod. Turns out of the 2 different thrust bearing I have, I don't have the correct one so yet to check it all actually works. If it doesn't then I have a spare pedal box and will start again and move the pivot point up to increase the throw angle. As much work as that is I wouldn't have to mill a plate for the firewall angle.

Edited May 26, 2018 by 4AGEKE55

[altezzaclub]

Grab a larger diam master cyl from the wrecker if the throw is insufficient. I don't think you'll notice the heavier pedal.