4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Report Posted September 1, 2017 (edited) Hey everyone. I've been a member here for almost 7 years, been using your wealth of information even longer. Thankyou to everyone who has contributed. The information on here makes everything so much easier. Yet at the same time so much harder due to deciding which way to go. So after buying my Rolla 8 years ago, I have been researching, planning and purchasing parts, and the time has now come to start putting things together. Thought I should probably document the process and give something back to the people who have given so much. A lot of what I am doing has been done before yet I think there will be a couple of surprises along the way. I have more things to get, yet hopefully can get the car running by the end of the year. I'd like to introduce you all to Katie. She is looking a little sad here and needs a good wash. Her bumper is also hanging due to having to remove the front quarter from a minor accident :( I first met Katie when a friend came over about 10 years ago. He had just got his license back and had borrowed a car from his in-laws. They bought the car brand new, converted her to gas, and she has travelled all of 212K Km's. Yet, happy ending, Katie is going to get a full makeover. Edited September 11, 2017 by 4AGEKE55 1 Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 4K motor getting removed. The left hand K-MAC strut hat is from a commodore. I have a bunch of commodore parts from previous cars and surprisingly they bolted straight in. Unfortunately they lower the top mounting point which will have negative effects on my suspension geometry. Brake master is also of a commodore bolted to the original booster. They come in both 15/16" 65/35 split and 1" 70/30 split. Don't think I can use it though as the clearance is non-existent with a 4AGE smallport manifold. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 Test fitting 4AGE. Had to remove the brake master so removed the booster as well so I could pull the pedal box out. 1 Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 Pedal box changed to hydraulic. I used a 2nd pedal off an AE71. Cut the pivot shaft out of the KE55 pedal then cut the AE71 pedal off it's pivot shaft. That gave me a new shaft to weld the pedal back onto. I welded the new shaft on with the pedal flush on the left hand side. This moved the pedal arm closer in line with the factory mounting point for a hydraulic master. Bought a piece of 16mm solid square steel. Cut to size, drilled a hole to bolt to the pedal and drilled and tapped the end to connect to the master cylinder. With the pedal shifted slightly left, the 16mm steel bolts directly to the pedal on the left and is dead in line with the master. I couldn't get enough piston throw with the master flush to the firewall, so spaced it out with some washers to angle the piston rod further down. This made the connection point lower on the pedal giving more throw. It doesn't give full travel with the carpet in place, yet is so close it won't matter. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 Front suspension upgrade. XT130 Front Struts. Coil over conversion coming. Only the S13WB Hilux? maybe Landcruiser Calipers are wide enough to fit over Commodore discs. Yet the discs bolt straight up. The small wheel bearing is the same part number between the Commodore and XT130 hubs. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 I had to grind a little bit of casting away to clear the disc hub. It was mostly casting flash and then a bit of grinding to make it neat and smooth. The arc now follows the curve line of the brake pad perfectly. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 XT130 Strut with Commodore disc and 15" +34 wheel with 205/60 tyre Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 Same suspension and wheel. Is almost inside the guard with a bit of rough panel work. Have GE Sigma A arms to go in and get some negative camber. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 Next steps fix the rust in the rear wheel arches. Starting to flare the guard in this shot. Has a lot of work to go. Need to cut away more rust, weld the inner guard to the outer skin then fit the bolt on flares. I considered flaring the metal yet the corolla's I have seen that done to look wrong in my opinion. Gearbox in the middle is a T50 from a TA22 Celica with a AE86 bellhousing. It measures the same length from bellhousing to shifter as the K50 on the 4K so hopefully will use the original shifter hole. Will find out in the next couple of weeks. Gearbox at the bottom is a W57 which will go in when I have the funds for a bellhousing and more so the custom R31 diff with billet axles and commodore stud pattern. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 This is some work on the right side. Arch is flared yet still full of rust. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Posted September 1, 2017 Current work on progress. Rust cut out and welding in a new lip. Yeah, my welding sucks but I have a gasless welder with 2 settings I bought off ebay for $20. Will clean up fine and then be covered by a bolt on flare. Rust is all gone and inner guard is welded to the outer skin. Don't know why I didn't go buy a can of yellow paint. I had 3 cans of blue nearby. Will all get rubbed back anyway so..... Quote
Mechanical Sympathy Posted September 7, 2017 Report Posted September 7, 2017 You're off to a great start there! Keep at it. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Posted September 11, 2017 A few new parts have turned up. Engine mounts from Jordan of KE Conversions and new rear water housing from Sam at SQ Engineering. Also picked up some SARD 650cc Injectors. Quote
4AGEKE55 Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Posted September 11, 2017 (edited) New engine mounts installed. Had to remove the Commodore master cylinder to make way for the inlet manifold. Will keep the MS just in case of future plans. With 20V throttle bodies and a custom tapered manifold the MS might just fit. Wiring still getting cleaned up. Needs a good wash in there also. Edited September 11, 2017 by 4AGEKE55 Quote
Mechanical Sympathy Posted September 12, 2017 Report Posted September 12, 2017 I found I had to convert to a KE30 booster/master cylinder/proportioning valve combo to fit twin Webers on that side. And it looks like Jordan has gone up a plate size on his mounts. The new T50 mount looks much neater than my early angle type. I might have to hit him up for anothery. Quote
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