Weak to no spark KE70

[altezzaclub]

Quote

Ran a wire from positive terminal to positive coil, cranked but no spark by the looks of things, can't really tell if there is a click or not in the fuse box

That narrows it down. So power goes into the coil +ve, out the coil -ve to the distributor, into the transistor pack module and sits there until the trigger spins past the sensor. That magnetic pulse opens the circuit to earth and the power flashes through the coil. That flow makes the coil produce the high voltage spark.

So your problem is either-

in the coil, its broken inside. You can test it with your 12V power wire on by shorting it out the -ve side, just tapping it on steel somewhere briefly. It should spark at the wire you're holding, and maybe spark off the plug lead. You could put a multimeter across +ve & -ve with one of them disconnected and it should give a resistance.

or in the dizzy wiring to the electronics, so just check that the wires do take power all the way to the modules & back. Maybe one wire is broken inside.

or in the modules, in which case you need new ones.

[Radical_Jesus]

Easy as, cheers altezza! Ill run a couple of tests on my day off tomorrow and see how i end up with things, really appreciate all the comments guys, means a lot having a direction to go, hopefully have the kesev up and running again in no time!

[Radical_Jesus]

In case anyone is still following this thread, ive done some multimeter tests, from battery -ve to coil +ve, a squidge under 12v

From battery -ve to ignition module +ve the same reading, squidge under 12v

From battery -ve to dizzy +ve through the ignition module, a solid reading of 0v 

By process of elimination ive either done it wrong, ooooor the dizzy is whats causing me greif, which means thanks cheap ebay spec elec dizzy

 

[altezzaclub]

Just check that second wire coming back from the dizzy to the coil -ve carries a circuit and its not broken somewhere.

Other than that, yeah looks like the module has died.

[Radical_Jesus]

Ok i have both positive and negative from the distributor going into the ignition module aha

 

[Radical_Jesus]

Ok, i'll explain this the best I can for anyone still reading. I have installed a new module, I'm getting 12V to the coil still, and 12V from every channel coming out of the ignition module now, 2 channels seem to be +ve current and 2 -ve current but all still 12V. however still not firing, so either timing it out or engine is flooded. Haven't checked for spark yet, but theoretically I should be getting spark if i'm getting 12V to the coil correct? This has really stumped me and isn't getting any easier haha, she'll fire one day soon though I have hope!

[Radical_Jesus]

Still do not have spark even with 12v coming from every channel of the module

 

Edited June 26, 2017 by Radical_Jesus
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[altezzaclub]

Well, when you find out what it is we will all be surprised!

So, power goes from the coil to the module and back to the coil. That should fire the coil.

Have you seen the dizzy turn?  No use putting the cap on and not knowing the shaft pin has sheared!

Do you have the tiny airgap between the rotating vanes on the dizzy shaft and the pickup sensor module? A points-type gap is way too large.

Dizzy cap is OK?  Not losing the spark becasue the carbon tit in the cap doesn't touch the rotor top?

Does it make a spark plug spark is the question, it doesn't matter if the car won't start. Test it with the spark plugs all out and one plug on its lead with a bare wire wound around the thread and the wire bolted to earth.

[ke70dave]

I sense something fundamentally wrong with your arrangement, and i've no idea what else we can type to help you figure it out...

[altezzaclub]

Don't forget there are two circuits running the coil!

One comes on when you turn the ignition on, and it is the one that keeps the ignition on when you are driving.

The second one only powers the coil when you crank it, and the first one is switched off.

So when you first turn the key you use circuit 1, then you turn that off and use circuit 2, then turn that off as you let the "start' position go and use circuit 1 again.

If you have a problem with the "start" circuit you can get power at the dizzy with the ignition on OK, but as soon as you crank it you lose ignition.

So just make sure you are getting 12V at the coil with the key on "start". You can bypass it by running a wire from battery +ve to coil +ve and having permanent power on the coil while you try for a spark.

[Radical_Jesus]

Ok so I did some research and some more testing and it seems that I'm not getting correct ohm resistance through the coil with everything unplugged, I have a new coil on order (Bosch HEC716 - the one used in the guide) so we will see how that goes when it gets here. The way its setup should be fine in regards to the guide I followed and the distributor works in regards to having nothing broken or sheared inside or around it. Have checked for spark at the plug and at the coil but nothing from either. According to research a gt40 coil is supposed to be for points dizzys not elec dizzys but not 100% how that would work, either way i'll keep on trucking through it

[altezzaclub]

Yeah, the electronic dizzys are meant to have the modern dry coils, although I've run my 5K dizzy on the stock 4K coil for years so far.

[KE70ph]

On 5/26/2017 at 1:32 PM, Radical_Jesus said:

Ok so here is my issue,

Not long ago I bought a KE70, replaced the carburettor to twin su with lynx manifold, bought new headers etc. It ran once.

Fast forward a week after that when my mate was around and I wanted to show off my mental 4into1 headers and how loud it was, wouldn't start

though I might have been out of fuel, filled it up with some juice, still nothing. after a while of cranking it started, but was minimal (like, maybe 100) rpm, so low you could still crank it and it was ok with it. then it died. 

checked the distrubitor, rotor button was spinning freely, and points had weak spark, no problems. I'll switch it to an electronic distributor, get a bosch module, bosch GT40r coil, electronic dizzy, followed Jackbyo's mad guide to install a new electronic distributor (hence why I went with the coil and module I did) but still no spark, not from the coil, tested it with the old spark against the block or bolt head trick as well. made sure my wiring was all ok, still no spark. Re did the ground leads to the battery neg terminal and the engine earth, still no spark.

Checked timing a million times ( the old rough TDC then rotor to spark lead one in the cap) ((dunno if that helps with anything))

I'm not great when it comes to car electronics, i've read that bad starters can draw too much power and kill spark so I'm thinking that might be my problem?

 

Anyhow, this thing is killing me, the fact that it ran once, but not any more is driving me mental and ive scoured just about every lead I can think of.

So now i'm coming to you lot for advice and hoping that you guys can point me in the right direction in regards to ideas or things ive missed that I should check

 

Cheers in advance!

~Ethan

Hey, maybe you should check your ignition coil. 

 

[Radical_Jesus]

I probably should have replied to this,  but she's all sorted as of a while ago,  was the internal ignitor in the dizzy (which I didn't realize I had) that was causing havoc for the module, took the module out, set the timing and fired straight up! 

[altezzaclub]

Great!  The last reply is always the most important as people with similar problems will read your thread in a few years time and there's nothing more frustrating than not knowing what the solution was in the end!