sweave65 Posted October 24, 2016 Report Posted October 24, 2016 I have a built 2TG but am still using the original 2TC starter. seems like it is struggling to crank it over. I am assuming that the 2TG one has more cranking power. I want to confirm before i buy the one from Japan....shipping will be expensive. Quote
ke70dave Posted October 24, 2016 Report Posted October 24, 2016 Whats the compression ratio difference of the two engines? Appart from the heads they are pretty much the same engine yeah? Do you know the history of your current starter? Has it been rebuilt? It could just be a bit sad? Quote
sweave65 Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Posted October 25, 2016 9.1 vs 11.0. I should have another 2tc starter around, maybe I will try that. Quote
parrot Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 (edited) The answer is that there were 0.8kw and 1.0kw starters available across the 2T engined range, but the 1.0kw starter wasn't specific to the 2TG. Have checked this across the TE2x and TA2x part books. Edit: and out to TE47. Presumably it depended on the vehicle location and ambient temperature range/oil viscosity rather than T vs TG. In some locations, K engines only had 0.6kw starters. Some years back I picked up a reduction starter for my 2TG from a local (Wangaratta) very Toyota literate wrecker (he used to rally a variety of Toyotas) who I am very confident knew his stuff. This is awaiting me getting on with my build so I can't positively personally confirm it fits, but is marked 1GGZE. I only actually unwrapped it a few weeks back. Obviously do your own research, but this may be a better option if going to the effort to locate one overseas. I'm sure along the way, that I have seen reference elsewhere to 1G family starters in T situations. Edited October 28, 2016 by parrot Quote
sweave65 Posted October 29, 2016 Author Report Posted October 29, 2016 parrot...thank you for the feed back. a local builder told me that the 2tc and 2tg starters are the same but based on your info, there may be some differences. I have not swapped my starter yet to see if it is just a bit weak. soon. Quote
parrot Posted October 30, 2016 Report Posted October 30, 2016 If you can read the part number on the sticker (if it's still there) I can see if it's in the part book Quote
j-m kujala Posted November 5, 2016 Report Posted November 5, 2016 Weakest version of 2T/3T starters are strong enought for even 2TG high comp engine with 2000cc It also work well with mine 2150cc "2T" with ~4kg flywheel. Common problems in starter is weak power, there is usually 4 brush and usually one got wear to the end or brush wiring is burnt.. it splits the power to near half.. Quote
sweave65 Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Posted November 15, 2016 thank you for the feedback. it may be awhile before I get to this issue because of starting my next project....1969 RT52 2 door corona.....need to get it out of the weather and grinded down and primed before surface rust gets much worse. The other issue I have with the starter is that it skips????or slips and misses the engagement. I know this is probably not good long term because it is most likely damaging the teeth. I will dive back into this in a few months. Quote
AE25 Posted August 17, 2017 Report Posted August 17, 2017 How did you go? I can confirm the 1G series of reduction starters work on the T engines (with the more common wide bolt spacing). The 3tgte came standard with a reduction starter which is same style as the 1ge-u 1gge 1ggte 1ggze one. There is a slight difference in the position of the solenoid and sometimes the wiring connection point but not enough to affect using it. We often used the gx61/gx71 1geu starter as they were quite common at wreckers. One thing to watch for is if you have a modified exhaust that is closer to the engine it may be difficult to install from the top or may even contact the starter. Always put a heat shield over the starter motor as its common issue to overheat the internals from proximity of the exhaust manifold. Quote
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