Ke70 With Different Smaller Mods Etc

[MR.M4G1C]

I bought this KE70 october last year (2015), and tought id make a build thread now. Its been a year and i have done some modifications to it. Gotten a lot of help looking at different threads here on Rollaclub, so thougt i'd just publish it. A little warning tho, I'm not a professional mechanic and I'm kinda learning as i go, I've had mopeds that I've worked on and a bmw that i kept ''hellastock''. So yeah I've gradually moved on to what in my eyes are more difficult things. And i have gotten a lot of help from my father who is a mechanic. Thought id just make a fast foward in pictures and some comments from when i bought it to where it sits now.

 

Bought it like this, from a 60-70 year old man who inherited the car when his father died 10 years ago. it had 63 000kms on it.

It has some body rust as far as i can see, the previous owner did some not that good rust repair with fiberglass, sikaflex and non color coded silver paint :huh:

 

Drove it home, here parked next to my bmw i had at the time.

An acquaintance of mine had some typically ''Jdm rims'' that i could try on the car, many of them were too wide but there were some ssr mesh that seemed like a good size.

The car seemed even higher on these wheels, in the second picture he jumped into the trunk. :P

 

Thought it looked a lot better now tho :D

Had a little fun :laff:

 

Stock 4k-C painted the top of the airfilter

Changed the steeringwheel and added some other bits, the keychain thingy turned out to be super annoying so i took that down.

And i changed the original radio for a more modern Pioneer with aux :)

 

 

Winter hit! :D Ssr's are off and stock winter wheels are on

And it hit harder.... got some rust over this winter, In the winter theres a lot of salt on norwegian roads :no: Never had any problems starting in the morning tho!

Decided to remove the black trim along the sides of the car. Looked better in my opinion, but some of the glue is stil on the car, havent gotten some of it off yet. In the front some glue even ripped the paint off 8S

This one might get a little hate.. but i changed the rear muffler, its not too loud idling and on lower rpm, but is way too laud on higher, gonna install another muffler in front of it afterwards.

Wanted speakers in the rear too, the original material behind the seats were way too thin to hold two speakers, so i made a new plate out of wood, after the picture was taken i stapled black cloth around it, looks lowkey. sad I don't have a picture of that.

I ended up buying those Ssr's and got them powdercoated in candy red, when the light hit them at the correct angle they glow :)

On the car

Wanted to lower it so i bought a complete suspesion from another ke70, thinking I'd just chop that set, never liked the idea of chopped springs tho. But then a coilover set for a carina TA60 popped up and i bought them, very bad condition tho.

 

Installed some fender mirrors and made a bracket for where the old mirrors sat. Also got myself a lip, The lip is powdercoated so it's not the same color nor metallic, but it was free I'm probably going to paint the whole car afterwards anyway :)

The coilovers got sandblasted and had ordered some ae86 5.1kg rear springs from technotoytuning and some kyb ae86 schock inserts for the coilovers. All of it is getting powdercoated black for the max stealthyness :D

Ran into a problem with the shock inserts, the ae86 schocks were a bit longer than the TA60, we ended up cutting out the bottom of the tube and welding it in further down.

 

And that meant installing it was next, me and my father did this over a weekend :) got some rear Koni adjustable rear shocks for the te71 for the rear. And had to buy new calipers becouse it just wouldnt be cheaper to rebuild the original ones.

 

 

Old vs new rear springs

Coilover refurbished

Back and front wheelwells now

Lowered in the rear, got an original Hella grill straight from the 80's :D

Lowered onto the ground had to roll the rear fenders, a lot. :D

This is how it sits now, the car got really stiff and the original seats just bounce you around, so i went ahead and bought a k sport seat. Its used but it seems to be in okey condition and i got new seat rails :) haven't figured out how to mount it yet tho, the KE70 have a wierd way to mount the orinial seat. So if anyone have done that before and have any tips about that id apreciate it :)

Edited October 20, 2016 by MR.M4G1C

[LittleRedSpirit]

Hello sweet car there. I think the TA60 struts have a a bad king pin inclination and they shouldn't be used in a ke70 as they will reduce your negative camber and ruin your steering geometry. RA40 or XT130/rt132 are very close to stock.

[MR.M4G1C]

Ohh, the guy i bought them from said they'd fit the ke70... it handles like shit now so you're right about that. 8S Have some bump steer spacers that i couldnt fit because i don't have the longer bolts, just thought it was them. don't think the models you mentioned over ever came to norway, ive seen like one ra40. Cambertops wouldnt solve it?

Edited October 21, 2016 by MR.M4G1C

[LittleRedSpirit]

No the issue is that the angle at which the stub axle meets the strut tube is too great on the strut itself. The steering geometry is instantly compromised, and the negative camber is reduced, you can add some neg camber back in with the tops but you can never overcome the geometry error in the steering.

 

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/50999-The-Toyota-Strut-King-Pin-Angle-Database

 

I suggest ae86, ra40 or xt130 corona struts which have extremely similar kpi. Of these three the ae86 strut is easy to get but poor value. It has the same size wheel bearing as ke70 strut but the bigger 2 inch diameter tubes to suit. It has either 245mm solid or vented rotors depending on whether you get single cam or twin cam brakes.

 

I prefer ra40 as it has a bolt on calliper bracket that makes upgrades easier like ae86, the bigger wheel bearing, the 2 inch tubes, compatible with ae86 steering arms, and 255 mm solid rotors.

 

XT130 is very similar to ra40 but it has a fixed cast calliper bracket that is part of the strut itself and requires machining for upgrades.

 

Hope this helps you mate. Sorry to tell you after you built your coil-overs but at least I can explain why you aren't happy with the handling.

[LittleRedSpirit]

With the seat you can usually unbolt or grind off the stock rails from the stock seat, then bolt them into the car and sit the seat you want to install on top. Use packers to sit it how you want to. You might be able to bolt it right to the rails depending on the width of the mounting bosses under the new seat, or more likely you will need a mate with a welder that will help you weld in a couple of strips of metal as an adapter plate.

[MR.M4G1C]

Sorry if i seem stupid here, but is it this angle you mean? (random photo i found on google and edited, ae86 struts)

Saw that on the site you linked both ke70 and ra60 struts both were 8.4?

 

I've gone to ''automatician school'' so electronics are my strongest side, but i can weld like basic stuff, though id make new mounts, using the orginal mounting points, but because of al the wierd angles it, would need a lot of fabrication, Something like this (How the guy i bought the seat from mounted it in his trackcar) In norway you gotta deliver the car for a control ever second year, and they are usually pretty strict som I'm trying to do everything reversable, so can't hack up my seat :doh:

Really apreciate the help :)

Edited October 21, 2016 by MR.M4G1C

[altezzaclub]

Yes, that's the angle that is under discussion.

 

You can alter camber also with longer lower control arms from an XT Corona or even longer from a Mitsi Sigma.

 

With RA40 struts you will run into steering arm fitment problems, the bolt centers are different. Then if you use the Celica steering arms as well as struts the arms are longer and it reduces your steering lock. We're using RA40 struts with AE86 power steering arms now.

 

With the car lowered so much you can expect to run into bump steer problems, which is where the spacers come into play. Whatever you use, get a wheel alignment on it and see what has happened.

 

The seat mount needs to be considerable heavier than that, it has to withstand 12G as I remember, before you go racing. He has it sitting on the floor rather than on the cross-bar like factory. We built the rally car seats on the cross-bar and turreted it up to the height we wanted. Sort out what height you want and build something solid up to it. Like this- although you won't be able to go back to the stock seat...

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__15

[MR.M4G1C]

Hmm, the factory seat has to be reversable, so ill have to figure something else out, if they see that seat in the control they'll take my plates :huh: The car the previous owner had them installed in was a Golf mk3 also :)

The car probably wont be used on the track since the closest one to me is like 7 hours of driving away. So i just want a car thats fun in regular use on some twisty roads, and maybe a ocasionaly aking it out for autoslalom.

 

There are Ta60 ateering arms also on the car by the way if that changes anything.

Went out today and took some pictures so you could see for yourself, but to me the wheel seems pretty straight, so don't know about the negative camber part :S Winter is coming as you can see, so ill put it in storage soon, the car is drivable now,

 

Spent some serious time and money on those front coilovers for a student :bash: shame if i can't use them

 

Edited October 23, 2016 by MR.M4G1C

[altezzaclub]

Its hard to say from the photos, but they look fine. They may not have negative camber, but they are close to zero. I've seen KE70s with more positive camber than those.

 

Its not hard to check, all you need is a spirit level and verniers.. Even a smartphone with a straight piece of timber and a good ruler. Just get the spirit level vertical up against the tyre, or a length of wood with a 'level' app on your phone, and measure to the rim top and bottom. There will be a few mm difference, and if you measure across the rim you can draw a triangle on paper then find the camber angle of the rim.

 

Fitting cambertops or longer LCAs will make it better, but it may be fine just like it is.