V_NIkula Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Posted August 23, 2016 Thanks for the comments. Coils are from ZZ series engine. Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted August 25, 2016 Report Posted August 25, 2016 Awesome build, love it Quote
V_NIkula Posted August 25, 2016 Author Report Posted August 25, 2016 Thanks :) I got dyno time 7.9 so I've been working quite long days now. Yesterday I wired radiator fans and modified the supercharger-butterfly valve wiring a bit and now it seems to work fine. Messed with timing and fuel maps a little and now it revs all the way up. Sounds pretty terrifying when turbo spools and butterfly valve opens :P: Quote
V_NIkula Posted September 7, 2016 Author Report Posted September 7, 2016 Had few issues today in dyno. The trigger signal from distributor got very noisy at >2500rpm and caused a lot of misses so we couldn't tune it properly. Ran out of time trying to solve what causes the noise and had to give up with it. So I went back home and started to check wiring and found out that I had somehow managed to mix ECU ground with coil ground... After few shitʞ©$ɟs I changed the grounds like they should be and ta-da; runs like a dream. Even drove it a little around the garage. But still, Haltechs miss counter shows that when starting it misses 6-7 times trigger, and when revving hard and letting go it misses 2-3 times. I heard that sometimes Haltechs decoder causes problems like this. Scoped trigger signal while running and the signal does not change when it misses. If I don't get that fixed I'll put trigger wheel to crankshaft and run hall-sensor to get proper signal. Despite these little problems i'm quite satisfied with it. I have new time 21.9 and should be able to push it harder. Quote
V_NIkula Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Posted September 8, 2016 Couldn't get the original 4A-GZE trigger to work properly. Probably because of the Haltech decoder. Now I have a 18 tooth trigger wheel at crankshaft and a hall sensor reading it. After setting the tooth offset and timing with light it started working. No more misses :) Tomorrow I'll change the turbo oil return line to something different because I don't trust that cheap eBay hose... Quote
5KKid Posted September 9, 2016 Report Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) I've been following your progress, excellent work, I would say you won't be under powered now lol, I particularly like how neat you have Assembled the wiring harness using heat shrink along the way, Love the lot :), the dyno results will be interesting too, keep it coming Edited September 9, 2016 by 5KKid Quote
V_NIkula Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Posted September 18, 2016 Thanks 5KKid :) Got new oil return done, the ebay shit can't take heat: Changed camshaft sensor to hall type because of the unreliability of the original reluctor sensor: (It's now finished and painted) Installed oilcooler: Then happily went to test drive and BANG drive shaft is gone. Now I need to get new before wednesdays dyno. And I'm starting to plan the driveline upgrade, just hoping this lasts the dyno. I'm taking the Volvo axle to sand blast next week and see whats going on with the bmw box. Quote
V_NIkula Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Posted September 21, 2016 Nice tuning session today. Only run with turbo and low boost because of the weak driveline. Had no balls to run over 1 bar boost, and it feels like the turbo wants much more. I'll be running at least 1,5 bar when driveline is strong enough and it should give a lot more power. Now the turbo lag is quite huge, nothing happening until 3500 rpm, after that it finds the red line very quickly :D Very nice feeling finally getting to drive it properly. I have some video of the dyno but I've not checked yet is there anything worth publishing. Now it has 200kw and 350nm at wheels. Quote
altezzaclub Posted September 21, 2016 Report Posted September 21, 2016 350nm at wheels. Well, that will tow the caravan up to Jyväskylä nicely... I think I'd be quite happy to drive around with 200RWKW, never mind the extra boost! Well done! Quote
V_NIkula Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Posted October 6, 2016 Thanks =) I have now driven for few weekends and engine seems to work fine. Everything else still needs a lot of upgrading :D Even visited at drift day last weekend, drove about 10 laps and broke oil cooler and leaf spring due to little spin 8/ 8/ Now fixed and I'm planning to drive it once more this year and then start to strip it. This little guy decided to give up after dyno, now with no gasket and holds fine. Our magnificent duo I forgot to drift On way home goddamit I picked up the bmw box (finally) yesterday and it's HUGE. Need to start chopping the chassis soon :jason: Quote
V_NIkula Posted October 9, 2016 Author Report Posted October 9, 2016 Size comparison with W50, T40 with T-T bellhousing and zf box with A bellhousing: Lenght of the box is good, should get the gearstick 10-15cm backwards. Quote
V_NIkula Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Posted October 26, 2016 Visited dyno last week to get the sc adjusted. Thick lines are turbo only. Don't mind the peak power, this is low boost. It's very much easier to drive now. Ended this short-but-fun season at Alastaro circuit 22.10. It's kinda scary to drive because brakes disappear very fast and rear has no traction at all but it's still fun as hell :D Sad to think that this was probably the last time i drove this car with this motor. Been looking for new body to start with but they're not easy to find. I'll buy early KE70 2door or KP series Starlet when a good one comes to sale. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.