Shrike Posted January 30, 2016 Report Posted January 30, 2016 Seems the car starts and stays on if I hold the key forward a little from the on point but then I let it go and it aligns on the on position it kills the engine. Does this with no ignition installed or with the starter switch unbolted Got a new starter switch from pickapart and same issue Any thoughts ? Have tried realigning the starter switch to the ignition barrel and no change Tried taking the ignition barrel out and starting with a screw driver but the switch doesnt start far enough forward :S Quote
Shrike Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Posted January 31, 2016 Thought it might be the ballest resistor but doesnt seem to be ( I bypassed it with the same issue) Probably needs replaced anyway so will get a new one might also buy a new switch as the one from pickapart might be faulty Sigh I hate electrical issues Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 1, 2016 Report Posted February 1, 2016 One of those two- The ballast gets used on "run" and bypassed on "start", so a dud ballast will do what is happening. The ignition block has a contact for each position, so if the contact burns out in the "run" side of the ignition key it will do the same. Its more likely the ballast, but so long as you bypassed the ballast correctly it must be the ignition block behind the key. Quote
tojo2 Posted February 1, 2016 Report Posted February 1, 2016 check for 12v on wire going to ballast with ignition in run pos. If nothing, trace it to ignition Block and check there as well Quote
Shrike Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Posted February 11, 2016 Replaced the ballest resistor last weekend no change Brought a brand new ignition switch which ill put in on sat If that doesnt work then ill have to play with the ignition barrel and metal shaft that goes through the steering column Quote
Shrike Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Posted February 17, 2016 Went to install it sat to discover I had been sent the wrong one Emailed the ebay vendor and have arranged to send it back Quote
Shrike Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Posted February 18, 2016 If I wanted to bypass the ignition switch what wires do I need to wire upto a toggle switch for on and then a push button for start Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 18, 2016 Report Posted February 18, 2016 Look in a wiring diargram! This one will do- White supplies the power for everything from the fusible link, and it goes out via the accessories blue/red, the ignition black/yellow, and the start black/white to starter solenoid. So the white gets switched to blue/red and black/yellow, and it gets buttoned to the black/white. Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 18, 2016 Report Posted February 18, 2016 Nope it won't do! Got re-sized too small. Try this- Quote
Shrike Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Posted February 19, 2016 Ledgend :) appricate it Seems tracking down the right ignition switch is a pita Quote
Shrike Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Posted February 29, 2016 Currently working with the guy I brought an ignition switch off to get the correct part He resent me what he had listed and was the same as the first one I brought Any idea how I find the build date? Quote
rebuilder86 Posted February 29, 2016 Report Posted February 29, 2016 Just take ur switch apart and fix it. its very simple, gently pry open the white plastic cover with the white cover held above the black bit. get ready for the 2 side springs and ball bearings to fly out at you. I've had to do this 5 times now, and have lost these ball bearings. if you loose these parts, its not the end of the world, the key will just loose a little bit of its click on the way around from off to start. Now, there are only 3 springs to fly out at ur face under the little copper plates, so have a soft blanket rolled up underneath your working area to catch loose parts. Sand down the contacts a bit and the 2 copper turning plates. There is an inner one and an outer one, just clean up both. Quote
Shrike Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) Just take ur switch apart and fix it. its very simple, gently pry open the white plastic cover with the white cover held above the black bit. get ready for the 2 side springs and ball bearings to fly out at you. I've had to do this 5 times now, and have lost these ball bearings. if you loose these parts, its not the end of the world, the key will just loose a little bit of its click on the way around from off to start. Now, there are only 3 springs to fly out at ur face under the little copper plates, so have a soft blanket rolled up underneath your working area to catch loose parts. Sand down the contacts a bit and the 2 copper turning plates. There is an inner one and an outer one, just clean up both. Gave it a go today and discovered the battery has gone flat, will pick up a new one this weekend as the one in there atm is god knows how old Edited March 6, 2016 by Shrike Quote
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