Carlitos Posted April 27, 2006 Report Posted April 27, 2006 I was having that same problem for the longest and I finally came across a couple of guys in the Flordia area (US) that have KE10 AND KE11. They are using the 80-82 Toyota Starlet struts with coil overs. Whats nice also they have front disc brake w/ hardware avaliable for the KE10 and KE11. www.theracingstore.com Quote
ke11restorer Posted June 3, 2007 Report Posted June 3, 2007 Alrite, I have ke20 struts and discs and i pulled out my ke11 struts I am told by my old man that the ke11 struts are non replaceable type. I was wondering if i can change the bottom of the strut thing what bolts onto the steering arm and the balljoint to a ke20 one? cheers luke Quote
Felix Posted June 3, 2007 Report Posted June 3, 2007 You can replace the strut inserts. Read back over this thread to see how ke2/3/5x aftermarket strut inserts can be fitted into your existing strut housings. :bash: Quote
Des Posted June 3, 2007 Report Posted June 3, 2007 This might sound like dumb question but here goes. I pulled my Ke10 struts out yesterday to start the disc brake conversion, Anyway i went to pull the top hat setup off and there is a Goldy coloured cap on top, I can't get the f@$ker off, Tried a screw driver down the tiny hole to try and pop it off NOPE didn't work. So can some one help me, Will get pictures today if needed ? Des :bash: Quote
ke11restorer Posted June 4, 2007 Report Posted June 4, 2007 Should be able to flick it out with ya screwdriver Flick it out from the side not in the hole Quote
ke11restorer Posted June 12, 2007 Report Posted June 12, 2007 What master cylinder is everyone using with the ke20 front brakes on a ke11 ;) :bash: Will it need a biasing valve? Or will a ke20 master cylinder bolt up/be alrite? Quote
kickn5k Posted June 12, 2007 Report Posted June 12, 2007 I am pretty sure my master is just stock ke-11 one with the ke-20 strut and brake coversion, seems to stop ok not good or great just ok. So I'm going to use a remote booster and see how much better it is. stu. Quote
ke11restorer Posted June 12, 2007 Report Posted June 12, 2007 I was told that i might need a biassing valve so the rears don't lock up hardcore? Quote
madrolla68 Posted June 12, 2007 Report Posted June 12, 2007 (edited) What master cylinder is everyone using with the ke20 front brakes on a ke11 ;) :bash: Will it need a biasing valve? Or will a ke20 master cylinder bolt up/be alrite? I am using a m/cyl from an RA galant ,70's model that was disk/drum Works overrated with my KE55 front disk setup Edited June 12, 2007 by madrolla68 Quote
ke11restorer Posted July 8, 2007 Report Posted July 8, 2007 Rear shockies what is everyone using? IS ke30-55 the same? :) Quote
ScottKE1X Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 What master cylinder is everyone using with the ke20 front brakes on a ke11 :evil: :D Will it need a biasing valve? Or will a ke20 master cylinder bolt up/be alrite? You wont need a biasing vlave with ke20 discs on the ke1x. They work well with just the stock MS. I believe most of use are just using stock rear end too, the street ke's anyways. I always was meant to do the galant MS on mine but never happened. Good conversion as you'd be upgrading to dual circuit too. Ke30 and ke55 dics have slight diferences from memory... ke55 thicker?? I know the ke70 is thicker than ke30. can someone confirm? Scott. Quote
jamesrolla Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 i run ke20 on the front and ke20 drums on the rear with my ke20 diff, theya re a bit bigger, i am using a twin circuit mc from a datsun 180b but I'm not using the booster, my back brakes lock up a bit though, will be sorting it out when i get it going again Quote
philbey Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 DIG DIG DIGGING!!! So from what I gleaned in this thread, the Ke20 shock is about 50mm shorter than a KE10 shock.... Is the actual stroke shorter though? Where I'm heading with this is that a shorter stroke shock will get around the non-captive spring issue if I get a custom set of springs made up. Quote
Felix Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 (edited) shock body is 25mm shorter. Piston shaft is 25mm shorter. Overall 50mm shorter. You end up with a reduction of 50mm in droop. Edit: Found the pic I posted earlier in the thread which disappeared. Edited February 15, 2011 by Felix Quote
philbey Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 sweet that's what I was hoping, although couldn't be sure, just because the compressed length is shorter, it might not mean extended length is shorter. This is good news, it means anyone running shorter springs can still remain captive although increase in stiffness and addition of KE20 strut tops may affect it again. Will keep posted, I'll source a set of KE20 inserts now instead of bothering with KE10 ones. Quote
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