SM Hunter Posted August 14, 2015 Report Posted August 14, 2015 (edited) Hi, as some of you might knew i bought another KE20 a coupple of weeks back.. got it for 10 000 NOK = 1600 aud got a shit load of pars with it -2T-GEU in parts -Trd oil pump -twin 40 solexes -T50 gearbox early type so it fits ke20 driveshaft -2tg to ke20 engine mounts -4x KN diamond 4x110 rims with tyres -4x Borbet T 9x16 with 4x semislicks, he payed 1100 aud just for the tires - 4x orignal wheels with tyres - a whole new steering in parts, all new busings for the whole car etc.. -a front of another ke20 cut up, almost rust free -27mm front swaybar -shortned struts with aw11 dampers -shorter and stiffer rear dampers -rear swaybar -LSD diff ( Phantom grip insert) -3k with k40 box -te27 dash with tacho -te27 heater panel with guages -1.gen celica steering wheel, center console and dash - probly loots of other parts i forgot he was moving out of the country and saw my Rallyrolla and send me a facebook message about his car... such luck! i kind of understand why he picked the buyer of his car, its a beauty and he would like to see it finished.. iv seen a ad on the ned before where he was trying to sell it for 5 times the price... getting it home trying to mock it up.. got a ducktail and flares aswell and a front spoiler.. tire is just put in under, no suspention rims, as you see this has been cut in 2.. its now sent for widening, going to add 3 inches :D ---> 12" wide soo today i mounted the entire front suspention ,missing the pitman arm tho, and om broke so i can't afford a new one so ill just wait til i have a bit of money... there is a lot ofe tire on this car! front is 225, rear is going to be 265! orginal struts, the car came with shortned struts, but the spring holder is also lower so it hits the tire, so i need to move it about 4mm of clearance betwwen the rim and the strut and 4mm between the spring holder and tire orignal vs shortned with aw11 dampers needs the lip, low, and my rear rims Edited August 14, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote
SM Hunter Posted August 15, 2015 Author Report Posted August 15, 2015 (edited) Thanks! painted the lip and ducktail and washed the car also cut out the original wheel arches in the right side and put the flares on! orignal vs 265 and as you may spot, a rear swaybar, going to take the diff (LSD) and swaybar and fit to the RallyRolla :) i want my rims back!!! ducktail pic Edited August 15, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote
SM Hunter Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) finally got my shit together and moved the car to the workshop! first i welded the pitman arm just to be able to move the car arround and figure out where i need to chop the body to clear the tires need to get a new one as soon as i get some money started welding the rear right arch, the car is on lowring blocks in this pic.. :D lots of space for the 16" the reinforcement is missing at this side partly missing here and about this much of rust... and i need to cut out and reweld this further back, and a part in the front wing as you can see, this is needed when the car is getting lower, i also need to reweld the lowring struts aswell... My friend who is supposed to be welding my rear wheels told me he think he may not be able to do it because its the wrong kind of alloy... dunno how to explain in english.. fuq... Edited September 13, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote
altezzaclub Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 because its the wrong kind of alloy You explained it perfectly... Someone will be able to do it, but it is tricky both in aligning the pieces correctly and also in getting the same metal in the welding rod. It will look great when you're finished, but so much rust to cut ot!! Quote
SM Hunter Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Posted September 17, 2015 yup, taking it to another local welder, this is a guy i don't know personaly so no free welding anymore :( nahh its pretty rust free actually, just in the front of the doors and arround the frontlights anywas, diceded to go the Turbo route i'v gotten hold of a Renault 5 Turbo carb off a 1,4.. a slim intercooler, dump valve , boost controller and boost guage cheap, then i had a friend who has a aftermarket SR20 manifold that I'm going to flip upside down (if its space and its possible) and make a top mount, but i need to make a adapter for the manifold, and carb.. then i have to figure out how to do the vacume advencer for the ignition, and the fuel system, a pump that keeps the pressure 0.25 bars above the boost..? and where do i take the oil from? get a oil cooler kit and put the lines to the turbo? the turbo is free, from my brother, he got some spares from his 200sx its a ca18 stock turbo ( T25) he has upgraded his car to T28 so he does not need his T25's anymore thinking of running like 0.5 to 1 bar.. unsure how much a stock 2T-C can take, how much HP would 0.5 make? and how much would 1 bar make? first off I'm going to take the 2T scrap block and a trash T50 and wled up some engine mounts, then i have a 2tc head and ill try to make the adapoter plate for the manifold.. lots to do... including gettting a engine and trans... If i get hold of a new type T50 ill use the TA60 tailshaft and TA60 welded diff iv got laying arround... Really looking forward to this! Quote
SM Hunter Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) found a spare head, and a Turbo, going to be top mounted for the looks and easy to work on.. so the center of the turbo needed to be spun arround 180 degrees to get the oil flowing the right way and the compressor side had to be spun so it faces out of the engine/manifold also brought a block, and trans to the shop so i can weld up some engine mounts, then after that i can make a adapter plate for the SR20 manifold that i'v soon got and then we started! Edited September 18, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote
SM Hunter Posted September 19, 2015 Author Report Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) Got my Intecooler, boost controol, bost guage, dump valve, carb and adapter plate today, all new apart form the carb, for only 170 aud! adapter making some room for the intercooler :) found out the front end has widened.. look at the holes not lining up.. making it fit chopped out the sttel and the IC fits snuggly made up some brackets for the IC dat exhaust manifold need to buy some universal rubber engine mounts and weld up some motor mounts, theese are form a Carina TA40, the engine is sitting too high.. Turbo carb Edited September 19, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote
SM Hunter Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) Score! bought a 2T-B going to pick it up in the weekend, its from a TA22 1972, is it the 105hp version? anyways that is going into the rallyrolla, then the 2T-C i got there is going into this! due to this got high compression and twin carb- No go for turbo... the 2tc is low compression and has 1 carb, and that carbs bogs anyways, since i only have 1 turbo carb its perfect! i also welded up the other rear arch :) almost finished but the back was getting ill after welding so much in wierd possisions so ill finish it next time :) Edited September 21, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote
SM Hunter Posted September 25, 2015 Author Report Posted September 25, 2015 test fitted the headlamps, i love the look of the inetcooler! thinking of going with with no grill... need to get some piping for the intercooler aswell... new top plates and Roll center adjusters from techno toy tuning need to modify the low and stiff struts to take the wide wheels "you got so much offset you can fit twins under there" is something iv been told from friends... and, yeah i can! Quote
SM Hunter Posted September 27, 2015 Author Report Posted September 27, 2015 (edited) scored this for free today! dubble action vacume clock for the igintion, pulls on vacume and pushes when pressurised, then a holder for the spring in the front and a stainless tube for the IC if i can't get hold of alu :) bought this for the rally rolla a 2T-B, then I'm using the engine from the rallyrolla in this a 2T-C :) now i got T50's for both of them! also got ta22 struts,tailshaft and rear axle! all welded together, not much of a spring left hmm height looks good i can probly get the flare to sit a bit lower to make it look more "stance" but the new struts made a lot of diffrence! Edited September 27, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote
SM Hunter Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Posted September 28, 2015 cut up and made room for the wheel to turn got it a bit lower need to get it a bit lower, will look dope with 3 inch wider lip! Quote
Leeroy Posted September 28, 2015 Report Posted September 28, 2015 Where are those flares and wing from??? Exactly the perfect size I need. Quote
Feral4K Posted September 29, 2015 Report Posted September 29, 2015 Tore, your doing some really good backyard engineering to your cars , please keep it up so others follow and see what a bit of dedication and motorvation can do,Love the updates matey keep em comin! 1 Quote
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