4Agze Blocks

[Twincam16seca]

So I am rebuilding a 4agze and I'm not sure what it came out of. From what I have read and researched it seems to be out of an early ae92. I have no ecu, loom or air flow/map sensor. It has a big port head, has the big port inlet manifold, I think lower comp pistons 8.0:1? and the super charger with the cross on the front. It may very well be a bit of a mix as I also thought, from the the case and supercharger it maybe a late ae92 but it has no oil squirters.

So really wondering what model came with the bigport head and oilsquirters and the biggest conrods? I need some of the biggest stock rods and would like oil squirter, failing that, is it possible to get squirters machined into the block?

 

Only want the facts, not my mate has this hear say mumbo jumbo!

[Sam_Q]

It's real easy to tell if you have oil squirters by looking at the blocks, someone can correct me if there are any exceptions to this but as far as I know all 7-rib blocks had them and none of the 3-rib ones did.

 

The oil squirters can be retro-fitted if the block is machined and tapped to suit. Doesn't look like an overly hard job either for one who has the right equipment. But you will need to manually cut a pocket out of your existing pistons or fit the later type or else their skirts won't clear the squirters near bottom dead center.

 

Why do you want the biggest rods? If it's strength due to boost then you're looking in the wrong place, only revs will kill a 4A rod. So you will only be putting more load on your engine by running the heavier type. I personally like the idea of going for a light aftermarket rod to help with that and the response.

[Twincam16seca]

Thanks Sam, I thought exactly what you said. My engine builder thinks it would be a good idea to have them, he suggested having them linished and shot peened as well. I have a set of rods and pistons from a ae101 (i believe) and my originals from the motor which I thought were the bigger set that I already had but apparently not! My mate took a picture of them next to one he had out of a stock 4age he rebuilt and they were slightly different again!

Did they have slightly different rods depending where in Japan they were assembled? If they are indeed assembled in more than one plac?

I'll try to get the picture

 

Also it will be turbo, going for 200+rwkw, Sam I have a laser cut exhaust flange from you that I will be using for a steampipe manifold ☺

Edited April 22, 2015 by Twincam16seca

[oldeskewltoy]

Sam has it correct.. rod strength is most important when it comes to RPM levels... if you have a concern a set of aftermarket rods should be more than enough. Just for point of fact I'm twisting my engine to around 8200, and I'm using the "whimpy" early "small" rod (40/18)

 

 

With these engines now approaching 30+ years old... you may have any number of mixed parts. I wouldn't count on anything till you have it apart.

 

NOT all 7 rib blocks carry squirters... at least not in the USofA... squirters were only available on the high comp engines - so after 1990. Either block (3 rib or 7 rib) can be machined to accept squirters... btw... did I mention I'm NOT a fan of piston squirters... PLENTY of oil spraying out from all the rod journals, and with the engines rotation the rod journal itself sprays the entire piston/cylinder all the time.

Edited April 23, 2015 by oldeskewltoy

[Damon550]

my big port 7 rib doesn't have oil squirters

origin of engine is unknown

[Twincam16seca]

Thanks guys, all helps heaps. I'll get a build thread going one day, only had the car and been collecting parts for the past 5 years! Haha 😂

[Sam_Q]

Well there you go, I stand corrected on the squirters.

 

With the rods I stand by what I said though, sounds like your engine builder is one of the old V8 guys. Shot-peening the rods would be pretty pointless when they are as strong as they are. Even the flimsy looking blacktop 20V rods are surprisingly strong and people have used with boost before.

 

Good to see another one of my parts that are going to be used. The laser cut flanges are another one of those things that I don't make that much on but I am happy to offer them because it makes it easier for people.

[Twincam16seca]

I don't know if he has done any work on V8's, but he is one hell of a rotor head! He's built a few 4age's before, got some decent power from a ze sc12 with a ems ecu and good tune, so looking forward to the turbo build.

I would think that getting them shot would help somewhat?

I have a question on turbo and manifolds too so I'll start a new thread for that.

[filfrederick]

shot-peening doesn't really change the strength of anything, it reduces crack propagation points so increasing fatigue resistance. it helps increase the useable life of a component. I try to shot peen anything I can.

but if the part is scratched afterwards it defeats the purpose.

and make sure it is done in a proper controlled cycle machine, not just some guy that has put shot in his sandblaster.

obviously This is just my opinion.

-Phil