Ke70 Clutch Repairs

[Goat Ke70]

Okay, I'm about to replace the clutch on my Ke70. i've borught a clutch kit and as i haven't done this before i was looking to find some helpful info. if anyone could give me a quick run through on the major things to do that would be awesome!

[altezzaclub]

Either drain the gearbox or leave the driveshaft in the back of it! Otherwise oil will appear all over the floor!

 

The cable is removed from the top and out through the bottom, not what you would expect, and must be taken out before the gearbox comes out. Hang it up and drop engine oil into it until it drips out the bottom.

 

You'll have to line the clutch plate up with the spigot bearing in the crankshaft exactly, so the gearbox input shaft can go through the clutch plate and into the bearing. I can do it by eye, or you can buy a plastic clutch aligning tool. If you are a couple of mm out you will struggle forever to try and get the gearbox back in.

 

Otherwise they are simple and strightforward.

[Goat Ke70]

Thanks for the advice :)

 

How do I remove the cable from the side of the gearbox, and the clutch cable? I don't want to damage them as I don't have the time or money to replace them haha

[lexsmaz]

Don't forget to remove the console & then remove the rubber sealing boots so you can get to the gear lever 4 sandwich plate bolts & undo them & remove the gear stick ..

 

Its fairly straight forward the whole procedure, but if you have never done anything mechanical before best probably buy a workshop manual first too & read it & possibly buy a torque wrench too, so you don't end up snapping pressure plate bolts etc, the need to buy a torque wrench sort of depends on your feel too as some people have good feel for when tightening up bolts & others are just heavy handed & snap / strip every thing they touch ..

 

If you end up removing the flywheel it should always be tightened up using a torque wrench & not just done up FT ( ʞ©$ɟing tight ) some people don't but use one but its not good practise ..

Edited March 29, 2015 by lexsmaz

[altezzaclub]

How do I remove the cable from the side of the gearbox, and the clutch cable?

 

The speedo cable on the side of the gearbox just screws on. Grab a rag and undo it by hand, or a pair of pliers if its stuck.

 

The clutch cable needs the circlips taking off at top and bottom to release the outer sheath, then take the hook off the clutch pedal and pull the whole cable out of the bottom drilling on the bell housing.

[Goat Ke70]

Finished! Clutch cable has stretched slightly but apart from that there was no major Hiccups :)

[altezzaclub]

Well done! So... more complicated job next time! What about a hot cam being fitted...

[styler]

Yeah good work, my first swap was forgetting the starter motor removal, the gear stick removal and the

oil drain from gearbox before tailshaft removal, got the speedo done though. Also yeah cable clutch is

removed from top as altezza has mentioned on k most motors. Need the universal clutch alignment tool

for refit or sometimes new clutch kits have plastic dummy shaft with the kit. Jack can help as well with

holding the weight of gearbox, while refitting. New Crankshaft bearing can be of use as well.

[styler]

Also getting the flywheel machined is half of the job, just look up the step for machining from out the k series engine manual.

[Box Boy South Africa]

Hi Guys I just drove to work and 3 1/4 there I stepped on the clutch peddle as normal to change gear and snap the peddle stayed down drove to work in 3rd gear got to work and now opened up the bonnet to see that the cable came off the hook coming out of the gear box tried putting it back on but there is no tension on the lever sticking out for the cable to go over does this mean the clutch just died on me?

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Nah most likely your cable has a problem. Is the clip at the firewall still on the cable?

[Box Boy South Africa]

yes i took it off and hooked the cable over the lever again and replaced everything but there is no tension on the levercoming out from the gear box.

[altezzaclub]

Is the arm coming out of the gearbox right at the front of the hole if you pull it forward?? That would mean a problem inside if the cable couldn't pull it any further.

 

Does the cable hold the arm up against the flywheel when you set the cable up?? You should have the pedal up high so as soon as you push it you can feel the pressure of the pressure plate. Then it is up to the pressure plate and the clutch plate to do their work.

 

My circlip used to pop out of the cable groove at the firewall until I put a circlip in front of it and screwed it up. The cable has stretched enough for me to need a platic spacer washer in there too.

[Box Boy South Africa]

the arm coming out of the gear box is move able without any tension on to pull the cable back so basiclly the arm has to pull the cable back when you release the clutch but it doesn't bought a new clutch will fit it and see what goes any tips and tricks on how to fit a clutch never done it before so newby to this part of my car. and where do i put the transmission oil in the gearbox and diff oil? while I'm down there would like to do that as-well

[altezzaclub]

basiclly the arm has to pull the cable back when you release the clutch but it doesn't

 

The pressure plate pushes the arm back until the thrust bearing just touches the fingers, and that is what moves the lever back & pulls the cable down. Its normal to have lots of play behind the arm until you adjust the cable tight. Tthen as you pull the arm backwards you're trying to lift the clutch pedal higher than its stop, and when you push the arm forwards you're trying to push the pressure plate in. Grab the cable under the bonnet and pull it away from the firewall towards the front. It should move 10-15mm at the most. That decides where the clutch pedal takes up, and it gets adjusted with the circlip. I'm worried that it might just be wrongly adjusted on your car and there's nothing else wrong.

 

 

Anyway, new clutch time-

 

Make sure you drain the g'box before pulling it out, otherwise its oil on the floor time! I'd waterblast underneath at the local DiY carwash if you can, working on a dirty greasy oily car is not nice.

 

Battery off, clutch cable, reverse lights wires & speedo cable off, driveshaft & gearlever out, starter off, bell-housing cover plate off, jack under the g'box to take its weight & undo the last bell-housing bolts.

 

Read lexsmaz' post above.. buy a torque wrench & clutch centering tool before you start.

 

Over here the clutch kit is not guaranteed unless you get the flywheel skimmed. Often it doesn't need it, but if you do pull it off to have it skimmed, get it lighened at the same time.

 

Make sure you wash everything in petrol or degreaser before you put it all back. Pour 2.5L (for the 5-speed) of gearbox oil into the gearlever hole as the last job.

Edited December 9, 2016 by altezzaclub