Blzbubs Aw11

[B.L.Z.BUB]

The KE is so depressing now. Diff is getting noisier. I got offered 5500 for it. That'd cover the loan for the MR2. But parting it I'd make a few more grand.

 

Clean break, pay out loan, new car.

 

Part car, deal with KE70 retards, pay out loan, extra MR2 stuff.

 

Decisions, I kinda want to part it.

[benhachi]

I would get the head hot tanked and even a bit of port work while it's out. Always nice bolting up a clean new head

[B.L.Z.BUB]

I completely agree Ben but I'm phucking poor as shit.

 

The plan was to buy this, daily it then part out the KE. The KE part out was gonna pay off the loan while giving me play money to spend on the MR.

 

Unfortunately I have a broken MR, a KE I can't strip for dollars as I need to daily it. I hopefully have someone coming to buy my KAAZ tomorrow which will give me $400 breathing room to get it on the road. At the moment I'm looking at gambling that the head is ok enough to get me out of trouble for a bit. Get the car good enough to go. Once the KE is off the road I may look at breaking the engine up and keeping the head and cams, getting that sorted and putting it on the MR.

 

The whole situation is crap, I'm not particularly happy but at the same time what can I do? I could start throwing shit on credit cards but thats just asking for trouble, I don't know enough people in the game to ask favours. At the moment my options are back yard ingenuity, elbow grease and good spirits.

[B.L.Z.BUB]

 

Shitty vid of it going. Loved that noise.

Edited April 2, 2015 by B.L.Z.BUB

[ke70dave]

Make sure you clean the block too. I usually use a razer blade and a vacuum cleaner to keep the junk out of the galleries.

 

Got any interior pics of the interior?

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Block looks immacculate. But will give it the same treatment but with 1000 grit.

 

Dave I'll get interior pics when I detail it. Its pretty gross after a road trip.

[Sznaps]

sounds great. reminds me of my n/a 4age

[oldeskewltoy]

At least the pistons look legit. They have STD stamped on them so I'm hoping that means bore and not compression.

 

 

If anyone can tell what they are by the pics let me know.

 

 

below are the 2 Toyota TVIS pistons. One on left is 9.4 to 1, one on right is 10 to 1

 

 

 

This photo shows on far left high comp 10.3 to 1, center is damaged 9.4 to 1, and right is TRD Group A piston

 

 

Visually, they(your pistons) are low comp 9.4 to 1 pistons.. Basically if the center dome section is below the edge of the piston, it'll be low comp, piston in top photo on right is the not catalyst 4AGE 10 to 1 piston and you can see the dome rises above the edge. Same is trrue with the 10.3 to 1 piston

Edited April 2, 2015 by oldeskewltoy

[B.L.Z.BUB]

So I've been screwed on the pistons too?

 

Great.

[ke70dave]

Unless the head has been decked to give it the alleged "higher comp". But you can't go too far as if i recall the valves are pretty close to the head face already.

 

Perhaps while the head is off measure the combustion chamber?

 

edit:

 

as for your predicament. If you are satisfied that the head is flat, i would put it back together with whatever cheap NON-METAL head gasket you can find. I just used whatever they sell at repco in my 4age, and it was fine for years. it was like 90bucks for the entire VRS kit including a heap of other gaskets.

 

reason i say non-metal is if the head isnt perfectly flat, or if there is some gunk on the block the non-metalic material has got more chance of sealing around the imperfections than a metal one.

 

All going well that should get your MR back on the road.

 

It is always nice with head gasket issues to rule out the head as an issue with a trip to the machinist for the once over, but when i did that to my

4age head i ended up needing 2 new valves and it cost me like $400 in machining costs.....

Edited April 3, 2015 by ke70dave

[oldeskewltoy]

You can measure the heads thickness to determine if it has been machined. 116mm, or 4.567" is uncut

 

 

 

 

 

Chamber volume should be 36cc - info measured by me many times, confirmed in the TRD Bible

 

[B.L.Z.BUB]

don't have calipers unfortunately. Might graba set today, a need some.

[B.L.Z.BUB]

116mm. I'm gonna get the head shaved so I may as well get some skimmed too I suppose.

 

And Dave I bought a genuine standard Toyota gasket for a better seal.

Edited April 4, 2015 by B.L.Z.BUB

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Soaked the head in a boiling hot bath today, the amount of solid built up crap in it was pretty amazing. Used about 5 cans of degreaser and a few hours with a small flat head screwdriver picking out the shit.

 

 

I'll 100% get it surfaced, if anyone wants to recommend shaving it and specs I'd be keen to hear.

 

[oldeskewltoy]

1) Chamber shape and quality didn't change much from 1983-1992 - means largeport and smallport chambers similar size and shape. Same is true for smallport and largeport exhaust port shape.

 

2) TVIS used either 9.4 or 10 to 1 without knock sensor, high comp did have knock sensor @ 10.3

 

Assumption therefore is you can raise compression a 1/2 point + and still not require knock concerns (may require higher octane fuel) but... the more perfectly shaped chamber the better*

 

An uncut head can be machined as much as 1.5mm this will lower the combustion chamber volume from 36cc down to a marginal 32.5cc-32cc. A 1mm cut will get volumes to about 33cc-33.5cc. 1/2mm cut will get you to about 34.5cc-35cc

 

 

 

 

* Can you work a Dremel?

 

If you can work a Dremel you can significantly improve the chambers resistance to detonation - ping - only work around the valve seats with a pair of old valves installed to protect the seats

 

 

Notice how the chambers edge doesn't move, yet I've removed the "sharp" edges in the chamber that can promote detonation. the above work adds less than a cc to chamber volume which if the head is machined 1/2mm gets it back to stock, or a 1/2cc smaller

 

Speaking about sharp edges... I like to run my hands around all 4 of the chambers feeling for anything sharp - frequently this is caused by either miscasting, or the heads initial run through the machining equipment.

 

 

From the TRD Bible... remove the "joggles"

 

 

 

 

As to 3 angle valve jobs... also from the TRD Bible....

 

 

The valve angle should be 1/2 to 1 degree less(44.5 to 44 degrees) providing a slight taper between the seat and valve. A 30 degree back cut on the intake valve also helps improve flow. Exhaust back cut not really worth it at this stage

 

 

Finally as you well know, there is only 7.5mm of cam lift... get all your valve clearances as close to the minimum as you can, this will provide you the most lift, and duration from the stock cams....

Edited April 4, 2015 by oldeskewltoy