B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 11, 2015 Author Report Posted June 11, 2015 Finally Rego'd in my name. Was a bit of a hassle as he didn't sign the form for me so had to write a statement blah blah, lucky he gave me a signed receipt. Got my 12v fish tank temp gauge to put in to run a warning buzzer so it doesn't cook itself again. Plus a bunch of carbon fibre vinyl to redo the rear spoiler extention. 1 Quote
Undertaker_is_the_best Posted June 11, 2015 Report Posted June 11, 2015 thats awesome always thinking outside the box Reed Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 11, 2015 Author Report Posted June 11, 2015 I had one in my KE70 controlling the engine fans. I just don't want a repeat of the head gasket incident. Plus real time temp readings are good. I just don't know wheres the best place in the system to put the sensor. Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted June 11, 2015 Report Posted June 11, 2015 block temp alarm is the only way i recon mate, water temp gives you nothing when the water isnt there. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENGINE-GUARD-EG01-1-Temperature-Alarm-Single-Sensor-Buzzer-Digital-Display-/161730650894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item25a7e5e30e Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 11, 2015 Author Report Posted June 11, 2015 I'm worried about it leaking and getting airlocked and boiling which is the issue with AW11's. If its not bled properly you can cook it pretty quick (like when I bought it). A small coolant leak over time can airlock the system suddenly so I'm looking for a fast spike. Theres is a lot of cooling pipes. It takes over 10L of coolant. That block alarm would also be a good addition but my water alarm was only $12. But I'm guessing a block alarm is better for catastrophic cooling system failure. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted June 11, 2015 Report Posted June 11, 2015 If you want a water temp one then wouldn't the best place be as low in the system as possible? That way it can dump the majority of fluid but you'll still have a submerged sensor for an accurate reading. Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 11, 2015 Author Report Posted June 11, 2015 On a normal engine I'd agree and it was the same in the KE70. But the coolant pipes run from the rear to the front of the car and which 'low spot' do I use? I'm thinking engine out pre-thermostat. Quote
Clapped out Posted June 12, 2015 Report Posted June 12, 2015 +1 for what matt said, block sensor. Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 12, 2015 Author Report Posted June 12, 2015 I think I need a block sensor. Quote
ke70dave Posted June 12, 2015 Report Posted June 12, 2015 Early mazda rx7s had a sensor in the top of the radiator that detected if there was coolant or not. And if you started leakin coolant a warning light "low coolant" displayed on the dash. I dunno why every car doesnt have one.. Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 13, 2015 Report Posted June 13, 2015 We fitted a mechanical gauge to the Celica that had an adjustable alarm on it, so it sounded a buzzer at whatever temp you set. It also turned on the big shift light that was the oil pressure light. I've forgotten the name of the brand, but it looked like any old Smith gauge with an extra arm on it and few wires out the back. We put the sensor in the back of the block, maybe it was an old heater hose outlet. its on this page- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__195 Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 24, 2015 Author Report Posted June 24, 2015 Had a bit of scraping in the rear. Was gonna buy some camber plates then was informed the rear hubs have camber adjustment. JDM as. Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Posted July 6, 2015 Found some 20V primaries and secondaries for sale. Will whack those on with a new exhaust as the Magnaflow is too loud. Kinda over cars at the moment. Dunno if it's the cold weather or getting old but I just cbf . Quote
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