Supercharged 2Tc

[Lord Charper]

Hi Guys,

 

After almost a year, I finally have my brakes and suspension where I want it. Now it's time for more power! I am contemplating purchasing an SC14 supercharger unit for my 2TC. I have seen a couple pictures of other people doing this but have not been able to find a proper write up. Do you all have any advice and direction to lend me before I embark on this? I am new to superchargers and could use all the help I can get!

 

Thank you all!

 

Chase H

[ke70dave]

You thinking staying carby or converting to efi?

[Lord Charper]

I recently picked up a set of side draft Mikunis and a 2TC manifold on the cheap. I would love to stay with carbs. Will that be problematic?

[B.L.Z.BUB]

You wanna do a suck through set up with carbs. I don't think the carb seals would handle the boost well if they're after the SC. EFI would be a better option.

Edited March 9, 2015 by B.L.Z.BUB

[Aussie_KE70]

Also if you do a draw through set up then fuel is passing through a supercharger, the seals will need changing to be fuel resistant. Otherwise the fuel will eat the seals away in no time at all.

 

Further more any seals/silicon in the "cold/intake side" will need to be fuel resistant.

 

Unless you go for an EFI or blow through setup. I'm not sure if the carbs you have can/ could handle it or if there is enough knowledge on setting the carbs up correctly.

[Mechanical Sympathy]

An SC14's seals are fuel resistant.

 

I've considered this, by eyeballing it for a 2TG. I think the main reason why bolting an SC14 to a 2T isn't common is that the SC14 is quite long and would foul on TA/TE engine mounts when adapted to mount on a 2T A/C bracket.

 

However when a 2T is mounted in a KE using modified block mounts, the mounts are effectively 30mm further back, liberating enough space for the SC14 to nestle in there.

 

Food for thought.

 

Anyway - forget the idea of blowing through two sidedraft carbs. I expect it would be hard to tune. You'd be looking either draw through a single 32/36 Weber (but then you need to consider how you'll bypass fuel-rich air around the supercharger at idle - or just let the S/C spin in a vacuum at idle which apparently makes it get hot) or, blow through a single 32/36 with a rising rate fuel regulator to push up the fuel pressure to match against the boost.

 

I mention the 32/36 because anecdotally they seem to be able to handle boost without needing to be in a sealed container or blowing out seals, can be purchased new (to mitigate potential problems) and you can get a nice turbo hat/plenum for them.

Edited March 10, 2015 by Mechanical Sympathy

[Lord Charper]

You wanna do a suck through set up with carbs. I don't think the carb seals would handle the boost well if they're after the SC. EFI would be a better option.

Also if you do a draw through set up then fuel is passing through a supercharger, the seals will need changing to be fuel resistant. Otherwise the fuel will eat the seals away in no time at all.

 

Further more any seals/silicon in the "cold/intake side" will need to be fuel resistant.

 

Unless you go for an EFI or blow through setup. I'm not sure if the carbs you have can/ could handle it or if there is enough knowledge on setting the carbs up correctly.

An SC14's seals are fuel resistant.

 

I've considered this, by eyeballing it for a 2TG. I think the main reason why bolting an SC14 to a 2T isn't common is that the SC14 is quite long and would foul on TA/TE engine mounts when adapted to mount on a 2T A/C bracket.

 

However when a 2T is mounted in a KE using modified block mounts, the mounts are effectively 30mm further back, liberating enough space for the SC14 to nestle in there.

 

Food for thought.

 

Anyway - forget the idea of blowing through two sidedraft carbs. I expect it would be hard to tune. You'd be looking either draw through a single 32/36 Weber (but then you need to consider how you'll bypass fuel-rich air around the supercharger at idle - or just let the S/C spin in a vacuum at idle which apparently makes it get hot) or, blow through a single 32/36 with a rising rate fuel regulator to push up the fuel pressure to match against the boost.

 

I mention the 32/36 because anecdotally they seem to be able to handle boost without needing to be in a sealed container or blowing out seals, can be purchased new (to mitigate potential problems) and you can get a nice turbo hat/plenum for them.

You thinking staying carby or converting to efi?

 

Hi Guys,

 

I was planning on doing a draw through system because I don't want to have to put all of it in a sealed box. I happen to have a 32/36 that probably has under 200 miles on it. I am also not totally sold on the SC14 due to the electronic clutch. Is there a way to control that with an aftermarket computer? Otherwise, I will need to fab up a bypass driven off of vacuum. I am not sure that I have the technical knowledge. Having said that, does anybody have any ideas for compact superchargers? My main goal with this is to get about 20-30 more HP than stock and to help with the low end a little.

 

Thank you all for the help,

 

Chase H

[B.L.Z.BUB]

The beauty of a clutched SC is being able to turn it off. I have bypassed my ecu on my 4agze so I can control it better.

 

I have a button on my steering wheel which locks the clutch on and off for quick power (overtaking etc). I also have a button on my dash which can toggle the SC to be always on, or ecu controlled. Plenty of ways to control them.

 

I had an idea to use a shift light, set the shift light to very low revs if possible (around2k rpm) and wire a relay off the light circuit to operate a relay controlling the clutch.

[Lord Charper]

The beauty of a clutched SC is being able to turn it off. I have bypassed my ecu on my 4agze so I can control it better.

 

I have a button on my steering wheel which locks the clutch on and off for quick power (overtaking etc). I also have a button on my dash which can toggle the SC to be always on, or ecu controlled. Plenty of ways to control them.

 

I had an idea to use a shift light, set the shift light to very low revs if possible (around2k rpm) and wire a relay off the light circuit to operate a relay controlling the clutch.

 

Sounds like I really need to do some planning before I take this on!