What To Check, And What To Overhaul.

[OdinNL]

Hey Guys.

 

 

I've been on here a while now, very much enjoy looking at the builds, and learning from the

discussions. I don't come from a family of mechanically talented people, and so most of my

"skills" are self taught, in a shed with a haynes manual, If I told you my first fan belt change

cost me something like 2 hours (stripped a couple bolts along the way, WD40 it up guys), you

better believe it.

 

But I've come a long way since then, and nowadays I'm more confident and skilled, but that

doesn't mean I'm anything without proper instructions. I'm now prepping for my biggest adventure

so far : an engine swap. changing the 3K to a 2T with a conversion set from Jordanrolla.

 

At first I had my mind set on "just stuff it in there and drive", but over the course of the last few

weeks, and with the winter season fast approaching (western europe) I've realised that my time

could be better spent. opening everything up and inspecting has proven to be so much fun

and interesting, that I'm looking into expanding the project a little further: giving the new 2T

a good looking after, and making sure that when I roll out of the garage next spring, everything

will be fresh and ready to go.

 

So far things are looking up, bores are clean and smooth, bearings are 'used' but not scored

or heavily marked. but here I notice my knowledge is lacking; what do I change, what do I check ?

if I'm flipping through the manuals I see a lot of things, but I was hoping you guys could point me

in the right direction. Now that I have time and the engine out of the car, what are the things to

look at.

 

 

Thanks guys.

 

Odin

[ke70dave]

Sounds like a fun project.

 

Do you know the history on the 2T? Does it run?

[Mechanical Sympathy]

I'm doing similar with one of Jordan's kits, but going from 4K to 2TG. My engine had also been sitting for an unknown length of time, but I was assured it was previously a "runner".

 

When I get the engine and gearbox on a hoist (i.e. when I get the hoist) I'm replacing;

 

- Engine rear main seal

- Sump gasket

- Crankshaft spigot bearing

- Clutch release bearing

- Gearbox front seal

- Inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets

- Kit through the carburettors

- Thermostat

- Spark plugs

 

I put it on a stand and sprayed about two cans of WD40 throughout the crankcase and down the bores and wiped away any filth I could find in the crankcase (i.e. not much) with my bare oily hands and then more WD40 down the bores and blew compressed air down the spark plug holes to blow the crap out (there were some gecko eggs in #4 exhaust port that were stopping the valve from closing fully). Turns nicely and seems to have plenty of compression on all cylinders now.

 

You might also consider to check/replace your waterpump and check your timing chain.

 

But I'm just a backyard mechanic, probably with similar skills to yourself. I'm not really game to pull an end cap off a conrod to check the bearings! So maybe some others can advise further.

 

Good luck. Show us pics of the engine once you get it in with Jordan's mounts!

Edited November 26, 2014 by Mechanical Sympathy

[altezzaclub]

  Quote

I'm not really game to pull an end cap off a conrod to check the bearings!

 

Go for it! Just put it back on and tighten it up to the right torque. You can just look at them for wear and scouring, or you can get some Plastigauge and measure the clearance.

 

Inspect the welch plugs and if they show rust rip them out. Clean out the waterways as much as possible with compressed air &/or a water jet.

 

Look for oil leaks at the front and rear crank seals, timing chain covers etc and replace any leaking ones. Fresh oil would mean a leak, old dry oil may mean its not worth worrying about.

 

Check clutch & release bearing.

 

Check the manifolds for any leaking marks and repace if needed. Make sure all the bolts/nuts screw freely to tne end of their threads.

 

Wiggle water pump bearing, look for leak marks. Take out thermostat and measure opening in a pot of boiling water and a thermometer.

 

Check cam lobes and followers for wear.

 

So far all you've taken off is the sump.

 

Do a leakdown test with a compressor feeding air in via a spark plug hole and both valves shut. If each cylinder holds pressure OK, assume the valve are good. If air pressure leaks away and you can hear it in the inlet or exhaust manifold, then its head off time.

 

Grind the valves, skim the head and inspect the bores. How big is the lip where the pistons stop, or borrow bore calipers and measure the bore. With the head off you have a better chance of cleaning rust and scale out of the water jackets.

 

Check the carbs for wear in the shafts and signs of old abuse.

 

not much else I can think of.. I'm sure there's more that other guys can come up with.

[OdinNL]

Thanks for the replies guys! This 'll get me further.

 

I'm still gathering some gear, there is a noticable bore lip, It 'll just about catch a nail. no parts stores here rent or

loan tools so buying sometimes seems like the only option, but I'll probably take my block to the machine shop where

i'll have the valve seats/valves matched. carbs I'm yet to open up, but I'm a little weary of the aisans, they seem so

horribly complicated, but then again I don't have to take em apart completely.

 

And I'm just cleaning the block now, Its covered in a weird dust/oil combination that will not dissolve, so scrubbing away

at the moment.If the bores are clean and in spec, I'm considering to just leave it at cleaning the head and replacing

crank/piston bearings.

 

I'll update the swap topic soon.

[altezzaclub]

  Quote

but I'll probably take my block to the machine shop where i'll have the valve seats/valves matched.

they will get your block and head far cleaner than you ever can. However it will all have to be stripped to bits for them, so that would mean piston out and new rings.

 

  Quote

bores are clean and smooth, bearings are 'used' but not scored or heavily marked

If this is so then bearings and head work should be right.

 

When you have it back together and running you can sort carbs. What inlet manifolds can you get? Weber DCOE, single or twin? SU carbs, single or twin? Can you have an inlet made up for something? Twin DCOEs seem the most common, but if you can't buy a manifold then you could make one for amything. Bike carbs on a 2T...

[OdinNL]

  On 11/28/2014 at 2:14 AM, altezzaclub said:

When you have it back together and running you can sort carbs. What inlet manifolds can you get? Weber DCOE, single or twin? SU carbs, single or twin? Can you have an inlet made up for something? Twin DCOEs seem the most common, but if you can't buy a manifold then you could make one for amything. Bike carbs on a 2T...

 

I got a guy for parts, has a nice collection of stuff. I go there for everything I need. I think he had some webers and mikuni's for sale a while back, but

he can source anything. I was thinking about the mikuni's, or would you say webers are worth it.

 

 

Greetz

[altezzaclub]

Well, coincidentally there is a Mikuni-2T manifold sitting here-

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/66759-1975-ke20-rally-rolla/page__pid__691385__st__120#entry691385

 

Make an offer!

[altezzaclub]

  Quote

I was thinking about the mikuni's, or would you say webers are worth it.

 

Depends on the size, but this video reckons there is not much in it, the Keihins are tad better at flowing. The Weber has the usual 36mm choke and the Yamaha carb is a 40mm. I'd say webers give more instant throttle response with their pump jets, but they use a lot more fuel around town because of that.

 

Edited December 1, 2014 by altezzaclub

[OdinNL]

I'll give my parts guy a call see what he has laying around. Maybe the 2T-G solexes ?

 

I rather have a bit less flow or response in exchange for ease of tuning to be honest.

 

 

I'll let you guys know.

[OdinNL]

Managed to score some solexes and manifold, I'll post pics when I go to pick them up.

[Mechanical Sympathy]

I understand that they're good carbs by most accounts, except for one inherent flaw.

 

The grub screws that project into the body at 45 degrees that hold the inner venturis tight, don't do their job very well.

 

Without attention, the venturis regularly work themselves loose and rattle around in place. This results in poor idling and performance also suffers.

 

The tendency is to then overtighten the grubs screws until something gives.

 

Apparently a bit of silicon or locktite or some combination of the two can lock the venturis in place when you're doing a rebuild on them.

 

After learning this I inspected my set and all four venturis were loose. I ordered some kits and am hoping to get a friend rebuild (and ultrasonically polish!) mine over the coming holiday season so I'll soon find out how we go securing them.