snot35 Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 That's what threw me, the longer doors. That is a lot of effort to go to! Be keen to see how this turn out. Quote
dbr11k Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 would have just used panel van doors, i was contemplating chopping my daily into a two door after i get rego as a mate had a rusty pair, but need to stop chopping things lol. also with the door jams you should just make up a section of sheet metal to cover up the rear hinges, thats what I'm eventually going to do with my ute Quote
matty555 Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Posted November 22, 2014 Yeah, would hate to need to replace one of the doors . I'll pull one of the doors cards off and have a look inside. They are quite heavy so I'll see what I can do to lighten them a bit. Quote
matty555 Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Posted November 22, 2014 Not a panel van door. Probably would have been a lot easier tho Quote
dbr11k Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 shit mate i wouldnt worry about lightening them, by the looks of that it has no intrusion bar?! light is good but youve gotta consider safety first.. if you get T boned on the track some how youre gunna be in a lot of pain the next day lol Quote
matty555 Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Posted November 22, 2014 Once motor and gearbox mounts are done I'm going to finish off a few rust repairs, then she will be going away to get a full proper cage built with intrusion bars Quote
dbr11k Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 yeah thats the go mate :) keen to see this finished.. by the way would you be able to measure the doors I'm curious as to how long they are Quote
matty555 Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Posted November 22, 2014 (edited) Think they are a little bit shorter than panel van doors. Will get proper measurement in the morning. Edited November 22, 2014 by matty555 Quote
matty555 Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Posted November 22, 2014 Doors are 1155mm along the center line Quote
altezzaclub Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 light is good but youve gotta consider safety first.. Mount a thick-wall exhaust tube diagonally down inside the door. Just weld feet on the ends and bolt them into the frames of the door. The stock bars are very heavy and don't have much depth in the direction of crush, making them weaker than they should be. That was to allow the window to go up and down past them, so if you're not having an opening window you can use a deeper metal section. Quote
matty555 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Posted November 23, 2014 I'll look into doing something like that while the rest of the car is away getting the cage built. I want to have opening windows Quote
matty555 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) Engine mounts had already been cut up from previous owner so i decided to cut them all the way down and start from scratch, mounting as low as possible. Some minor trans tunnel modification to fit the 6 speed in. Roll cage will well and truly make up for the strength lost in cutting the tunnel. Edited November 23, 2014 by matty555 Quote
dbr11k Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) panno doors are 1198, I'm curious as to what windows they used.. are the lexan or glass? p.s i love how far its being mounted back, should handle crazy good. Edited November 23, 2014 by dbr11k Quote
matty555 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Posted November 23, 2014 Windows are polycarb/lexan. I was thinking about cutting the firewall and mounting it further back but I reckon it should be fine how it is. Quote
matty555 Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Posted November 25, 2014 Decided to cut the firewall a bit more and mount the BEAMS a little further back. Hopefully get the engine mounts and trans crossmember done tomorrow Quote
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