snot35 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Posted January 26, 2015 Yeah I have a bit of experience with belts, it definitely doesn't seem right. The belt looks a bit rough, and I'm pretty confident that the 2kg for 4mm deflection or whatever the manual states has been surpassed. Quote
snot35 Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Posted January 27, 2015 God I hate working on FWD cars, did I mention that? I'm struggling to see how this car ran given how shot the timing belt seems to be. Following the book it seems impossible to get everything to line up as the Toyota gods intended. I'll see if I can pick up a new belt in the next couple of days and fit it. Current problem is removing the harmonic balancer. I think I'm going to like working on this motor when it's in the KE70. Quote
snot35 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Posted February 5, 2015 Right, new timing belt is in. It hasn't made as much difference as I thought it would, I'm still not totally happy with where the dizzy is going in. I'm starting to brain storm about what else it could be. Given it starts nicely then stops, then subsequent restarts get harder and harder, I'm thinking maybe it's a clogged fuel filter? I don't have a pressure gauge, anyone got any good tricks for how I would check it? I'll try starting it again on the weekend and see what we get. Quote
Boosted Posted February 10, 2015 Report Posted February 10, 2015 How warm does it get with each start ? Just spit balling, but perhaps the computers seeing temp and pulling out the cold start enrichment for subsequent restarts, which is covering bad injectors, fuel rail pressure or fuel pump ? Either way, I'd recommended against the cheap fuel testing kits on ebay. Gauge and everything looks good, but not a useful damn connections amongst the 70 pieces that came with it. Quote
snot35 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Posted February 11, 2015 It wouldn't have long enough to get warm, but I haven't checked. I did a bunch of troubleshooting last week, short of starting it because it was a little late at night. I went through the diagnostics manual with the multimeter and tested everything. So far, nothing stood out as being dodgy. Right resistance on the injectors and temp sensors, coil is OK and all the right voltages are at the ECU pins for firing up the fuel pump, injectors etc. I did notice the ECU relay does get quite hot. I'm not sure if this is normal? Also I got stuck trying to find engine main relay no. 2. I'm not sure where this is in an AE82. I suspect it's one of the two by the accelerator pedal. I tried to test these and couldn't make sense of it. It seems that they aren't getting power, but the ECU and everything else is, so I'm guessing I haven't correctly identified it all. The fuel pressure line does go quite hard when I jumped the fuel pump test. I've bought a new filter just in case, but it isn't yet fitted. The belt is in. I need to attempt some more starts on the weekend. Any recommendations for how to test fuel pressure boosted? Quote
Boosted Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Not sure, like I said I couldn't get my kit to fit the damn thing. Hard pipes to fuel filter and long bolts into the fuel rail. Easiest was looking like under the floor where the flex lines come from over the top of the tank and join the steel lines running under the floor. But you'd need the adaptors and test gear still. Fuel pump doesn't really fit with the symptoms to my mind. Perhaps that main ECU relay is failing and not letting enough juice thru to injector drives and all that fruit ? Really grasping at straws though Quote
snot35 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Posted February 13, 2015 Yeah, I don't think it's fuel pump either, but I'm grasping at straws too so I'm trying to eliminate as much as possible. You could be right about the injector drives. I thought that relay was OK, but it's getting hot. The same was occurring for the thermo fan relay. I hope to put aside some time on the weekend, but it's going to be 41 and 39, so it'll really test my enthusiasm! :) Quote
snot35 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Report Posted June 8, 2015 Wow, last update was in February. Anyway, put some more time into it. Got a new battery and cleaned up the dizzy. There are some frayed wires on the pickups that I'm not happy about, but some electrical tape has fixed that for now. I tested the ignition and I seem to be getting pretty healthy spark out of every plug. Got a can of start ya bastard and it will pickup a little bit, but then die. It's running worse than before unfortunately. I decided to do a compression test and got this: 1: 75 2: 75 3: 150 4: 125 Ferk. Dumped some oil in and it pretty much did this: 1: 200 2: 200 3: 200 4: 200 I also pulled off the fuel line to test the pump and that didn't seem to be working, but that's new. There was definitely fuel about before. What are my chances of the rings freeing up if I can get it started, or should I just face the fact that it's engine out and rebuild time? Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 9, 2015 Report Posted June 9, 2015 Ah, I see. I asked the question in the other topic, and here is the answer. Jeez, how much oil did you use? If there is about 30ml in the combustion chamber at TDC then more than a few ml will be raising the compression ratio. It certainly looks good with all 4 at 200psi. How long has it sat for?? I've only had rings seize once, and that was a motor that had sat for 4years. Mind you, it wouldn't turn over either! Can you tow start it? Once the motor is running at a couple of thousand rpm the compressions are much better. Quote
snot35 Posted June 10, 2015 Author Report Posted June 10, 2015 Ah, I'm not 100% sure, 5ml ish? I'm not sure. It's sat for about a year with me, before then I don't know. It definitely turns over. Tow start isn't an option as it's at the bottom of a hill and there are no options to go down the hill :/ At the moment I think I have a bung fuel pump, so I'll have to sort that first and then move on to the next problem :) Quote
rian Posted June 10, 2015 Report Posted June 10, 2015 This sounds like the problem I was having, I had compression figures across all 4 of around 100PSI when dry and 180-190PSi when wet. I decided to replace the engine :y: Quote
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