lexsmaz Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) If it had a blown Alt fuse & ECU fuse I'm guessing someone has possibly re-fitted the battery incorrectly ( reversed the polarity / put the leads on ass about ) or has jump started the car with a dead flat battery & managed to put the jumper leads on ass about & if that's the case it could possibly have blown up / fried the ECU too ... As has been said check for spark at the plugs & listen for the fuel pump or get someone to crank it over & feel the rubber fuel line & If the pump is working you will feel the line swell slightly & also get hold of an injector tester pulse tester or multi meter to see If you are getting pulses at the injectors .. Edited November 24, 2014 by lexsmaz Quote
snot35 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Posted November 23, 2014 Oh don't say that :( The guy I bought it from didn't seem the sharpest tool. I'll check for spark. I've got a digital multi meter, I'll see if I can check for injector pulses with that. Thanks all for the help so far :) Quote
Boosted Posted November 25, 2014 Report Posted November 25, 2014 Maybe it's just the dodgy wiring on my AE92, but there's a plug in the signal wire that runs down to the starter motor. If you disconnect that and turn the key, fuel pump runs but it doesn't crank. I do this often for mine as the starter motor's a bit dodge, will fire first time with fuel there, but without it, let go of the key and the starter solenoid might not want to engage next time, problem goes away once it's warm, but I digress. With the key cranked you can hear the fuel pump running (though my car is gutted), so should be able to rule that out. Just thinking on mine there's a 'circuit opening relay' that opens power to the ECU. Pretty sure it will crank even without this relay working, but as it doesn't fire up the ECU, it won't run. Mate has done the battery lead backwards trick, not many fuses on an old escort so he actually smoked the cable to the starter motor and alternator. Fuses should have caught it on yours and now that you have dashlights it should be good, but may just pay to check those main cables, make sure nothing has melted thru. Quote
snot35 Posted November 26, 2014 Author Report Posted November 26, 2014 Cheers. Does the fuel pump on these prime and then stop, or run continually? I didn't hear anything, but wasn't listening out for it. Power was going to the ECU and I have checked the ECU relay. If I get a chance on the weekend that the ECU is triggering things. It's been sitting for a while, it might just need a bit more cranking. Quote
Boosted Posted November 27, 2014 Report Posted November 27, 2014 Fuel pump only runs with live ignition. At least on mine if you just turn the key on, the fuel pump won't run. Runs while cranking though. Quote
kickn5k Posted November 27, 2014 Report Posted November 27, 2014 Checked/replaced relays too? Could also be a dodgey Air Flow Meter. I have never heard the pump prime on webers4x48's 82 twinky. That's with both the bigport and and the GZE. Quote
Hiro Protagonist Posted November 28, 2014 Report Posted November 28, 2014 Could also be a dodgey Air Flow Meter. Unless it's an early GZE or a silvertop 20V, it'll have a MAP sensor not an AFM Quote
snot35 Posted November 28, 2014 Author Report Posted November 28, 2014 It's MAP. I've checked power to the ECU, but not outputs to the fuel pump. Quote
snot35 Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Posted January 20, 2015 Right, I've been chipping away at this one. ECU is fine, and is indicating normal codes when jumpered. It has new plugs and the leads measure OK for resistance. Cap and rotor is OK. I can get it to start and catch, but then it dies. Subsequent restarts are more laboured, and then it needs to sit for a while before it will restart nicely. I've set base timing manually, but it doesn't stay running long enough for me to check it on the timing light. It seems like it's over fueling, there's a definite fuel smell. There are a few immediate problems, but I'm not sure they're contributing factors: - The seal on the dizzy has gone, so there is oil everywhere. There is some oil in the dizzy, but I don't think it's enough to really upset the signal. Indeed you can hear the zaps if the ignition is on and you turn it by hand. - There's a VSV valve with a broken lead floating around the engine bay, I believe it used to connect to the airbox, but this thing has a pod filter. It has been bypassed, as far as I can tell the vacuum line coming from it used to go to the airbox, then a larger vacuum line came out of the same fitting and went to an adjusting valve by the bonnet hinge. The other air line goes to the throttle body. I've seen an old post (Hiro?) where this wasn't even connected and the car went OK, so I don't think it's that. Any ideas? I'm working through the diagnostic manual slowly, but the first step is to set base timing, so that's a little off putting! :) I have a leak down tester, so I might fire up the compressor on the weekend to check to make sure it's nothing like that. I don't have a pressure gauge suitable for EFI, I might try and source one. Any help greatly appreciated! Mike Quote
springersrolla Posted January 20, 2015 Report Posted January 20, 2015 I reckon the dizzy is out if your getting it almost starting and not running. Drop a long screwdriver down number 1 to find top dead centre. Take the dizzy cap off. Check firing order of the plugs and make sure that the rotor button inside the dizzy is pointing to number 1 for the cap to fire. If not you will have to rotate the shaft off the dizzy on the cam gear to line up with 1. Use a paint pen or something to know where 1 is on the dizzy body. Hopefully the car can start and you can play around with a timing light with the ecu in check mode to get timing spot on. Wouldnt hurt to check tps as you don't need it running and is simple with feeler gauge and multimeter. Keep slogging away youll get it Quote
springersrolla Posted January 20, 2015 Report Posted January 20, 2015 http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=57522 http://www.matrixgarage.com/content/4age-tps-adjustment http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=8286 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59798-4age-timing-set-me-straight/page__st__15 Quote
snot35 Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Posted January 20, 2015 Cheers. I did time it by hand, so the star was pointing at the pick up when I had it statically timed to 10 degrees and the rotor seemed to be pointing in the right direction. Admittedly I have not verified that TDC on the pulley is true TDC, I should really put that on the list of things to check. Good idea to check TPS too, thanks. Thanks for the links, I'll have a read. Quote
snot35 Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Posted January 20, 2015 Alright, using a screw driver down the hole, the pulley seems to line up with TDC as near as is possible to tell. I also whipped off the cam covers and the pulleys are in the right spot, so that's all good. Couldn't be bothered digging out the meter to do the TPS, I've had enough today. :) Quote
springersrolla Posted January 20, 2015 Report Posted January 20, 2015 The pulleys are at tdc but is the dizzy?? Should be pointing at 1 on the cap Quote
snot35 Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Posted January 20, 2015 Not currently, I pulled it out again. Can't remember why now :) I'll leave everything aligned and put it back in and double check tonight. Cheers. Quote
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