10K Budget For Ke55 Forced Induction Build

[Taz_Rx]

I don't know where you're getting the idea that an rx3 its disc rear? They are definitely drum and a tiny diff at that...hardly big enough for the 10a or 12a they were behind. Just because an rx3 is leaf spring doesn't make it the easy option either. I could pretty much guarantee that you'd have to cut the mounts off and move them, so of you're going to do that you might as well do it to a strong, already disc rear end... Ie r31... Which would be handy in the back...not the front! If you do a little research around here you'll find there are much better front strut upgrades from the Toyota family. You'll also find many options of break upgrades on said struts.

 

I also suggest you have that conversation with a turbo expert so you can move on from the idea of twins if you won't believe what people here have told you. There's a reason why people put big singles on jz's and rb26's ;)

[Rion_55]

Thankyou this is the sort of stuff I was looking for hah

So I could even go lsd if I find a silhouett? (one came into our work as a trade in and they wanted $300 for it complete, shattered...)

 

What thread or area should I look in for the front suspention/brakes? I had a quick look before I posted this at the start and had no luck.

 

I havent done any forced induction training but I know there is a formula to work out the correct turbo so yeah Ill be going to an expert once I decide on a motor.

 

So two things left:

Anyone know a trust worthy shop in vic that they have used or know someone who has?

And whats the best motor to go with (toyota only) is it worth going 20v?

[ke70dave]

The silhouette came with some strange kind of LSD, which as far as i can tell are pretty useless unless recently rebuilt. But you can buy a KAAZ 2 way to "drop" into the R31 diff.

 

The best way to figure out brakes/suspension is to spend a few hrs trawling through build threads. So many different options out there, and if you can work a lathe your options are essentially endless. though you might want to contact an engineer first to see what the do's and don'ts arent.

 

as for the turbo calc, this is a good place to start

 

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml

 

Along with learning how to read a turbine compressor map.

 

It's quite complex but there is no easy way to do it....and once you start understanding it its really good.

 

Also depends what you want to do with the car. as in a street car you can get away with overdriving a smaller turbo for epic response (getting outside optimum efficiency on the compressor map, and generating a bit more heat for the intercooler to try and take care of) as you arent going to be full throttle all the time. But for a track car you prolly don't want to generate as much heat so you want to pick a turbo that spends the majority of the time at peak efficiency to avoid excess heat. (which generally is a bit bigger turbo, but not always)

[Rion_55]

The main use of the car will be track, but on occasion I wouldnt mind going for weekend trips somewhere in it. Not far away obviously but yeah I don't mind if its hard to drive at low stop start speeds because I hopefully wont be doing much of it.

 

I have some spare time now so Ill have a look through some build threads.

 

Also I'm going to contact an old friend who has a performance shop and see if he can recomend somewhere to discuss turbo related things

[Rion_55]

A little update on the progress:

 

Ive decided on going with a 20v running an adaptronic after market ECU (Still have to find a dealer to discuss)

Ive found an engineer who sells the water pipe conversion the rwd and the blanking plates to cover the dizzy

He told me that 4AGZE pistons fit straight in for the turbo aspect. I'm going to talk to a friend at Toyota to see if I can get some indepth details on the 20v to give to an engine specialist to get the best out of the motor.

Ive ordered the engine mounting kit and a hydraulic pedal box

 

as well as Ive made some ground on brakes (although still not much)

Ive been told if I get AE86 struts and steering arms that they are pretty easy to fit and if I can find the Vented rotors all the better

 

Anyone know the specs on RA23 diffs and TA22? ratio and strength sort of thing?