artinvest Posted May 5, 2014 Report Posted May 5, 2014 Hey All, I am after a bit of advice on a decent carby setup. Due to the seal going in cylinder 3 of my 5k engine I am jumping at the opportunity to do a complete rebuild of my engine, I have plans to bore her out, upgrade the cam, lighten the flywheel and so on (I know many will say replace with a 4age or similar but I love my little 5k so am happy to throw the cash at it), I have the original asian carby on and am wondering peoples opinions from experience; should I be upgrading to a dual webber / single webber and or is a 7k efi upgrade the better option. Quote
altezzaclub Posted May 5, 2014 Report Posted May 5, 2014 I like the idea of a single DCOE Weber. Cheaper would be the Weber 32/36 d'draught of course, better for air cleaner setups and PCV hoses, but not as cool! Twin SUs would probably cost the same as the Weber, but they'd be older and although cheaper on fuel on a trip they would lack the punch around town. The efi would be the most technical for me, but you might be more up to date with it. Is it still going to be a daily?? What sort of cam?? Are you porting the head? Make sure you get the bottom end balanced, it will rev much smoother and last longer. Quote
artinvest Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Posted May 5, 2014 (edited) Hey Mate, Thanks for the info. My mate is doing the engine work on the car for me and after pulling the donk apart we had a bit of a chat with an engine guru of his. To answer your questions the car is a bit of a hobby take it out a few times a week if I am lucky thing. I have already bare metal resprayed and had brand new interior fitted, new rubbers, brake upgrade - am presently on the hunt for a decent set of 14 inch rims with a 4x110 pattern The advice from both parties was that if I wanted to keep the 5k engine (which I do) then value for money there was a few things I would do that would make a difference and there were a few things that could be done that would cost a bomb and in their opinion not really be worth splashing the cash on. They recommend; 1. The bottom end are already bored out .5mm they suggest taking them out to 40 thou - I need to replace the pistons anyway due to number 3 being shot 2. polish up the crankshaft 3. new bearings and balance 4. new cam - they recommend a fairly off the shelf version with nothing really fancy to allow for high and low rev 5. Currently running the original carb - they have recommended a side draft single weber as they believe any more then one carb will be a waste of fuel - I am steering towards the single webber over the EFI as I like the sound you get from a carb 6. I already have extractors so that is sorted. Edited May 14, 2014 by artinvest Quote
altezzaclub Posted May 5, 2014 Report Posted May 5, 2014 Sounds good- get a cam that pulls from 3000-7000 as you'll use the mid-range more than anything else. Are you putting a 2" exhaust behind the extractors? That covers all the best value-for-money mods. Get a hard filter for the Weber as using socks means there is nowhere for one PCV tube to go, so you always have an open vent on the tappet cover spraying oil all over the motor. Rich has sox on his single DCOE in a KE30 as there is no room against the strut turret, and the oil vapour is a real pain. Even a catch tank still vents back to the atmosphere somewhere. Quote
artinvest Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Posted May 6, 2014 Hey Buddy I appreciate your advice on this. I did forget but they did mention a larger exhaust. I will certainly go with the hard filter - I prefer the look of the filter anyway. Now to see if anuone on here has a weber and manifold laying around otherwise Ill have to go a refurbished one again thanks for the advice cheers shane Quote
sam k Posted May 6, 2014 Report Posted May 6, 2014 Depending on your budget you can pick a genuine Webber up on eBay from $400-$600, then just get the adaptor to suit. Could save the hassle of dealing with second hand stuff. Quote
artinvest Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Posted May 6, 2014 I have since found out that the block has a crack in it, so I am on the hunt for a new 5k donk as well. Quote
altezzaclub Posted May 7, 2014 Report Posted May 7, 2014 damm.... You're far more likely to find a 4K, even if you bore it out to take 5K pistons. Quote
filfrederick Posted May 7, 2014 Report Posted May 7, 2014 where was the crack? any pics? cracked blocks are fairly rare as far as i know. Quote
artinvest Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Posted May 14, 2014 Here is a picture of the crack. The machinist who was about to bore it out saw it and filled it to see if it was a scratch or if it blew out and therefor was a crack - ended up being a crack My 67 Rolla was originally a Tassie Rally car and as such the engine has had a hard time, when we opened it up the 4k head that was on the 5k block was heavily ported out, the block was bored to 20 thou and the engine was running on an 11.1 compression - no wonder the old girl shit herself, she used to go like a bat out of hell though Anyhow I have chased up a new 5k engine. Got a good deal $150 for an engine that was imported in the late 90's with only 30,000 Kms on it- has been sitting in a shed ever since - a nice virgin block - so take 2 for a 40thou bore out, new cam, cleaned up crankshaft, new set of deep curve pistons (I plan on adding turbo in the future so might as well put these in while its open), bigger exhaust, new seals allround, fully balanced, back on with the extractors and an upgraded carby Still after a decent carby for an upgrade from the original asian that was on it if anyone has one floating around. Quote
artinvest Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Posted May 14, 2014 (edited) here is the image Edited May 14, 2014 by artinvest Quote
filfrederick Posted May 19, 2014 Report Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks for the pic. still seems strange to crack there, perhaps from the shocks of rallying?? perhaps a balancing problem? but you would think it crack around the mains not in the water jacket. i dunno. any thoughts altezzaclub? Quote
altezzaclub Posted May 19, 2014 Report Posted May 19, 2014 nope- I've never seen one crack, although until last month I'd never see a 4K head crack either! So I have no idea where to expect them. Too much time over 8000rpm with some nasty harmonics building up? I remember this comment in the Wiki- Apparently the design of the blocks suffer from harmonics above 8000rpm and crack with stunning predictability. One cyl pushing the block wall to the left and the next cyl pushing it to the right at the same time? Quote
Clapped out Posted May 20, 2014 Report Posted May 20, 2014 It always happens between the welsh plugs too, 3rd one ive seen, all been 5k's and in the same spot, odd certainly! Quote
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