Flywheel To Crank Hole Stripped

[Bushpig]

I'm currently in the process of converting a ke55 from auto manual, I took off the torque converter and flex plate and when i went to install the flywheel one of the bolts would only go halfway in. I had a look at the thread in the hole and about halfway down the tread just looks completely stuffed. Just wondering what options I have?

Was thinking of using a tap with the same size to try and clean up the thread? (what size and pitch is that?)

Or if that doesn't work just tapping the next size up?

Thanks

[springersrolla]

its a tough one depending on how damaged the thread is. i think by memory there m10x1.25, if you buy a tap set it will with come with a starter intermediate and plug. it will get your thread started and then finish on the plug tap. i can't comment on using the crank because i can't see it but if you found you had any slop with the bolt or loss of thread id scrap the crank. i wouldnt recomend helicoiling the crank either. the fact your going from auto to manual means your going to rev it more and that could mean a flywheel cutting off your ankles.

 

put some pictures up to show how bad it is

[filfrederick]

one thread is possible to repair safely but i would probably use a keensert type repair if you have the room. but i would take the crank to an engineering workshop to do it properly. it makes it so hard when someone has tried to fix something like that at home without the proper tools and skills. would probably cost $100 or so to do.

if you have another crank lying around just go with that and you don't have to worry.

-phil

[B.L.Z.BUB]

I reckon a new $100 4K would be easiest.

[Bushpig]

its a tough one depending on how damaged the thread is. i think by memory there m10x1.25, if you buy a tap set it will with come with a starter intermediate and plug. it will get your thread started and then finish on the plug tap. i can't comment on using the crank because i can't see it but if you found you had any slop with the bolt or loss of thread id scrap the crank. i wouldnt recomend helicoiling the crank either. the fact your going from auto to manual means your going to rev it more and that could mean a flywheel cutting off your ankles.

 

put some pictures up to show how bad it is

 

 

When putting a bolt in it goes in fine the first half, then just stops and can't go further. Even though the thread in the bottom half looks fine.

It's probably not worth getting a keensert put in.

 

http://imgur.com/IgCYd0Y (larger image)

[Bushpig]

[filfrederick]

I reckon a new $100 4K would be easiest.

 

I agree, just swap in a whole new motor, cheap, then you have a heap of spares!

 

You could probably get away with just running a tap down there to clean it out and use some locktite but not worth the risk in my opinion.

[Bushpig]

I agree, just swap in a whole new motor, cheap, then you have a heap of spares!

 

You could probably get away with just running a tap down there to clean it out and use some locktite but not worth the risk in my opinion.

 

Yeah was thinking the same.

 

I was just assembling it make sure i could get it all working before i tear it all apart again for a rebuild. I think for now i will try and clean it with a tap, use some locktite and get it working just take it for a drive down the driveway. Then when i pull it apart i'll just get a new 4k or maybe even a 5k.

Thanks for the help

Edited March 9, 2014 by Bushpig

[springersrolla]

its a bit messy but you could probably get away with it. i take no responsibility telling you to but. i would clean it up with a tap, make sure everythings clean loctite 243 and correct torque. it might never have a problem. then again it might

[Bushpig]

its a bit messy but you could probably get away with it. i take no responsibility telling you to but. i would clean it up with a tap, make sure everythings clean loctite 243 and correct torque. it might never have a problem. then again it might

 

Yeah it is. But yeah definitely not worth the risk so won't be staying like that.

Just another quick question, The bolts that held the flex plate to the crank had split washers. The bolts that i have for the flywheel don't, so do i need to use them?

[jay_howie]

The Split washers are called spring washers and they provde a secondary locking function to the torque (stop the bolts coming loose). You can use them but i would use a washer between the spring washer and the casing to stop it cutting into it. But instead of a spring washer I personally would just use loctite thread locker on the threads and torque them up. You should use thread locker on any bolt that has a chance of vibrating loose.

Edited March 9, 2014 by jay_howie

[Bushpig]

Thanks for the reply, i shall get some loctite.

[LittleRedSpirit]

If you put washers onit, you get less of the good thread at the bottom of the hole. Clean out the holes really well before you put a bolt in, that may mean running the tap in to the hole to cut out the loctite, then blow out with an air blower and use fresh loctite. Should be fine, its just a 4k. But if you are actually going to spend money on it, then get a better crank put in the rebuilt motor.

[Bushpig]

Just realised i don't have an M10x1.25 in my kit, does anyone know a store i can buy individual taps (Melbourne)?

Thanks

[Taz_Rx]

I've bought single taps before from our local 'nuts and bolt' so try your local fasteners store. You're going to need a 'blind tap' for that too btw.