kickn5k Posted February 25, 2014 Report Posted February 25, 2014 Unleaded fuels barely last more than two months unless completely sealed. I'm tipping stale fuel. Quote
jay_howie Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Posted February 26, 2014 But the stale fuel is now gone and replaced with fresh fuel. Are you saying that it may have damaged something along the line? Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 26, 2014 Report Posted February 26, 2014 I reset the dizzy to where i thought it should be Take off the dizzy cap and watch the points as you turn the motor up to TDC on number one cyl. They should open just before the TDC mark hits 5deg on the timing chain cover. To set it, turn the crank to get the pulley timing mark on 10deg before TDC, have the cap and rotor out, turn on the key and turn the dizzy until the points just open. They will spark and you should hear the coil crack. Turn it a few times until you're happy that they have exactly just opened, and reassemble it all. That should be good enough to get a light on later. If it knocks when driving you can turn the dizzy a tad retarded, but I run 10deg advance on 95octane no problem. Quote
CorollaNut68 Posted February 26, 2014 Report Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) The fuel pump may be gummed up if fuel sat in it... after trying to start it does it smell or act flooded or starved? I've seen needle valve seats be loose after a rebuild...which could flood it. I think you said you cleaned the tank...did you blow out the lines? Do what altezza said if it still won't start on it's own...trickle some gas down the carb...if it starts, I'd look into the pump, it may have deteriorated inside, which would act like you ran out of gas. Soon as they get that "beaming" thing down...we can just pop over and have a look. Where's Scotty when you need him? Edited February 26, 2014 by CorollaNut68 Quote
jay_howie Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Posted February 27, 2014 Awesome, thanks guys, now I have some stuff to try out. I will get back to you with the result. How I temporary set it was points opening at TDC, I thought that would at least get me in the ball park, but nothing changed. Fuel pump sounds like it might be a go, will try both suggestions! Quote
jay_howie Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Posted February 27, 2014 So just tried both, with what little light I had left. pumped the accelerator arm on the carby which squirted fuel into the bowl, started fine and idled for a bit then died. So that means I need to get me a fuel pump! Rotating the dizzy did not much at all Corollanut. I could hear the rpm and smoothness change, so I quickly got it to where it sounded best and tightened it up. Should be ok there for when I get a pump and do timing. Just a thought, how do you regulate the advance on the ke55 bosch dizzy's if there is no adjustment for it? I know its vacuum operated, but if the manual says its needs to be 'x' at 3000rpm or whatever (after I have set idle timing correctly of course) and the advancement is out, does this mean new carby? or at least new diaphragm? Cheers! Quote
jay_howie Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Nevermind about the timing, fixed it up and changing fuel pumps to a better one i had lying around. Ran brilliantly for 5 minutes then started pinging again. Wispy smoke comes out of the oil cap, carby and down near the exhaust somewhere. Any ideas now? Changed oil and filter after it was warm too, no change. Fuel seems to be squirting into the bowl fantastically Edited March 3, 2014 by jay_howie Quote
CREEDY Posted March 5, 2014 Report Posted March 5, 2014 nevermind about the timing? sounds like a timing or valve/tappet setting issue, if the clearances are set too tight when cold it can affect running as they change once warmed up Quote
jay_howie Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Posted March 6, 2014 Sorry what I meant to say was forget the dizzy side of things, its def working as advertised. My thoughts are now at the head, something with clearances and valves, will further investigate this on the weekend. I don't think its a timing issue at this stage. Quote
jay_howie Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Posted March 9, 2014 So some of the valves are about .1 mm out and no valve springs are broken, will adjust when i have some more time. Somehow i don't think this is my issue...perhaps breaking the carby down again and cleaning it? What did u guys use to clean urs out? Quote
altezzaclub Posted March 10, 2014 Report Posted March 10, 2014 I just use petrol. I have a few 10ml or 5ml syringes around and I push petrol through the drillings behind the jets once I've stripped a carb, make sure the jets are clean and re-assemble it all. Quote
jay_howie Posted March 11, 2014 Author Report Posted March 11, 2014 Alright thanks, will try that Quote
CREEDY Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 or a can of brake cleaner works a treat Quote
jay_howie Posted March 24, 2014 Author Report Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Ok so this is getting silly. Could I please get some quick info on: A) what should timing be at idle (currently 0 deg and advances normally) B) how to set the different mixtures screws if they are way out. eg how to set them close enough to get the car started and go from there. Thanks guys....its doing my head in. note. I am pretty sure its a carby or some vacuum issue now Edited March 24, 2014 by jay_howie Quote
Clapped out Posted March 25, 2014 Report Posted March 25, 2014 Factory timing for a 4k is 8 deg, make sure the vacuum advance is disconnected whilst doing the timing, cheers! Quote
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