Car Running Like Shit

[shadowhawk]

car running like shit wont idle ect i have to keep my foot down to keep the engine going i thought the carby was blocked so i toke it apart and cleaned it up

 

it was a little rusty and corroded but i cleaned it and nothing was blocked ,put it all back together and back on it still wont idle right IT DRIVES ALRIGHT its just the it wont idle properly so went I take my foot off the peddle it runs like shit and same when I stop (sorry if this confuses any one its hard to put in words)

 

it sounds like it idling good for a few seconds and does then it sounds like its going to die and idles really ruff then sounds good again then sounds like its going to die or does die

 

I don't know if it's the carby or maybe fuel pump or something else I really don't know and I want to fix so it can run normal again

:D

Edited March 18, 2006 by shadowhawk

[Ke55-Pez]

It's more likely to be electrical - points, cables, plugs, dizzy cap, dizzy itself. Just go over all of the connections and make sure they are tight, make sure your leads aren't damaged.

 

Hope that helps

Tom

[TRD ke70]

have you tested the fuel cut of solenoid on the side of the carby?

it shuts the fuel off to the idle circuit when you turn the car off.

 

to test it: turn the ignition on and pull the wire off (should be the only wires going to the carby)and when back on, you should hear the solenoid click,if it doesn't it's f@$ked.

[shadowhawk]

Whoa ur car must be pretty advance man HaHaHa my cars a 1972 it doesn't have one of them its only got 1 fuel line going to it and 1 vacuum hose I don't know how my car turns off but I'm guessing its something to do with the spark plugs

 

I don't know what's WAS wrong with my car but I played with the spark plug leads and other power leads and it still ran like shit so I left it for 1hr and started it up again and it ran fine

 

it started to run like shit last night after I finished thrashing the shit out of it, all the time I was trashing it the bloody chock was on so I turned that off and then it ran kept dieing it wouldn't idle but all fixed now and cleaned out the carby and now it runs beta then it did before when it was running alright

[Rolla__Boy]

Isn't that last post saying the car runs fine again now?

[shadowhawk]

car was running like shit again last night even worst coz i didn't seal the gaskets when i toke it apart to clean it up so i needed to take my carby apart again and put gasket sealing on ever single gasket put it back to gather let it dry for a bit and then start it up and ran really good i then checked the timing and hade to adjust that to about 10* pass TDC it was at like 5* before and i can make it idle so low now

 

so any one else that doesn't not know much in the future that has problem with there car hoping when ur going 100 on the highway not (ruff) idling, does not take off smooth ect it mite be something like this which will not cost a lot to fix

 

1st check ur timing (3k engine is around 8* to 10* pass TDC)

2nd take ur carby apart clean it with some carby cleaner or degreaser or something

3rd clean all the stuff off the surfaces where the gaskets go

4th get a rebuit kit gasket ket that will work don't us sealer it stuffs it right up , put the gaskets in and put it back to gather

5th let the gasket sealer set then put the carby back in and tune and take it for a run it should run and idle a lot better if u have the same problem as I had if that dosnt go to a mechanic or some one with mechanical experience

Edited March 24, 2006 by shadowhawk

[shadowhawk]

OK car was running fine yesterday and i started it up today and it ran fine untill about 500m away from my house and now its doing it again and my cars stuck at work i can't even drive it i got a new fuel pump and every thing but it didnt fix it so i don't know whats going on

[shadowhawk]

don't hava a tacho its somting to do with the carby i recon coz the car hade water in the fuel tank when i got it but i going a guy coming to mora to fix it so hopfully thats it

[Tham]

I have a Corolla KE70, 4K engine, 1981, Malaysian market.

 

Aisan carburettors, especially on the 3K, 4K engines,

are well-known to cause trouble during idle when they

get a bit old.

 

The Aisan has a kind of "power piston" in the idle circuit,

which is meant to control the air-fuel mixture at idle. If there

are some micro-abrasions in the chamber or piston itself, it

will function erratically, even jam, and make the mixture way

too rich for the engine to idle properly - it may well sputter

and die off.

 

If this is the trouble, the only option, unless you know how

to handle it, may be to send it for rebuilding.

 

I have changed three carbs over the last two years.

The first was from a salvage yard - this idled

badly after just a few days. The second was brand new,

but idle mixture was off too after just about a year. I'm

currently using one meant for the 3K, and it doesn't idle

that smoothly either. Fuel consumption with Aisan carbs

is also bad.

 

I'm considering sending the original carb to the US for

rebuilding. Won't be cheap - at least US$250. Someone

told me that the carbs used in the Dahaitsu Charade Aura

or the Hyundai Atos, both 1,000 cc engines, can also be

used, though the mounting bracket and linkages will have

to be modified.

 

I also experienced exactly the same problem like you did

on the way home near midnight. However, after scratching

my head, thinking it was the carburrettor, float, fuel pump or

vapour lock problems again( which I had been having for

the past two years), it turned out to be my semi-electronic

ignition box.

 

I am using a high-energy ignition box, made from a kit by

Dick Smith of Australia and designed by Silicon Chip. I use

back the contact points to trigger it, rather than a magnetic

reluctor. If the transistor or IC gave problems, I could always

jump back to the points anytime. I did last night, and it seems

to be holding idle fairly well after that.

 

It's possible also that it was due to the ignition coil too. I was

using a standard coil with ballast resistor, so that may have

overheated due to the electronic circuit driving it to give

out too high an output. You should check your coil as well,

they can cause trouble with age, even with a normal points

distributor.

 

I think I will have to replace the distributor with a fully electronic one from the

salvage yard - the Dick Smith kit

does not seen to be very reliable.

 

The spark plug wires can also give trouble with age.

Edited March 27, 2006 by Tham