1975 Ke20 "rally Rolla"

[altezzaclub]

Silicon can take quite high temps. Its only when you do this work you realise how stupid having the inlet & exhaust on the same side really is! The 2T was much better.

 

Those silicon hoses will suffer, I'm waiting to see if they survive. I had Lexan plastic gaskets in the SUs and they hardened up and melted. maybe you can wrap the exhaust in fibreglass at the top. Extractors have a bit more room there as they start off as pipes, and the steel is thinner than the cast iron you have to work around.

 

The extractors on The Girls KE70 get red hot and glow. The spare set in the garage are ruined because they melted and softened, & a piece blew out down between the pipes.

[SM Hunter]

yeah, i can both wrap the manifold and the silicone hoses ;) got meeters of exhaust wrap left over from the snowmobiles :)

The 2t manifold that someone made for my ta60 probly took like 2 hours to make... its soooo simple you can make everything yourself, even a turbo manifold is possible if you take your time...

 

This is the fun part, not knowing how tings are going to go ,and not know how you're going to do it, hours after hours of thinking :)

 

I hope you where driving hard to get the extractors to turn red? :o

Edited December 2, 2014 by SM Hunter

[altezzaclub]

They spalled where the 4pipes get close and run paralell before they join. At that point the pipes are radiating heat into the pipes beside, and I had wrapped around all four together, as I couldn't get the fibreglass in between each pipe. The metal just flaked off from the surface. The photos are in The Girls KE70.

 

It was hauling up steep (2nd gear) hills in a forest with 5 adults in the car that really nailed them, I spent an afternoon up and down the same bit of road ferrying people up aand down.

 

So the next set I just wrapped around each pipe at the engine end and left the 4 pipes together bare, then filmed it. Even cruising at 100kph they glow gently red. I blamed the SU carbs running at 18 to 1 fuel mixture, as being lean means being hot, but now I've run the mixture display on the Altezza and the SR20 Pulsar, & they do the same.

 

You are right, its the challenge of making an old car better, and solving the problems along the way that stops us from buying newer cars that you just get in and drive.

[SM Hunter]

18 to 1!? i would think that is a bit lean :P

anyways had a couppel of hours in the shed :)

made a heat sheild, hat to take what i found so therfore the angel cut in it :P

fits nice and is there is a lekage it would nto hit the exhaust :)

float bowls almost horrizontal :)

looked at my cylinders , they look good( i think) :)

tried getting the cam cover off but i could not get the pulley wheel off...? even tried a powerarm then crank the engine...

discovered i have an awesome frame number

and here is why extracotrs isn't really tempting..

i just can't get tired of watching this !

[altezzaclub]

That looks fine- just wrap the exhaust for the first 200mm and it should be OK.

 

Yeah, 18:1 is lean, but the moment you lift off the accelerator the injected cars show that. They go back to 14.5:1 as you accelerate again. The SUs I have had going up slight inclines at 16.7:1, ones where you just ease on the throttle very slightly at 100kph cruise. That makes them hot I'm sure, but the airflow at 100kph gets rid of the heat.

 

You will find the same with the quads, they will need the mixtures changing to suit your engine.

[SM Hunter]

yeah i know, I'm going to take the A/F reader from my carina and weld on then buy a new meter :)

do i want it to run 14.7 all the way or do i want it to richen out when hit the throttle at mid to high rpm? atleast thats what i did with my brothers car.. when the load is low it gets 14.7 and leaner, but when he hits the pedal it gets 13 or richer all the way til he got full boost then i set it to 11.5... but i don't know if this is the case with N/A cars? and since i got carbs i obviusly can't make it lean when I'm not so hard with the gas pedal then rich when i want.. :( but do i want the A/F ratio to be at 14.7 all the way to the top? :)

 

Anyways i decided to make a tool to get the pulley wheel of..

welded to a long rod

Made 2 holes in it and then used 2 M6 bolts to go into the holes in the wheel :)

i can't get the sump far enough down so i think I'm going to take the engine out, then clean up the underside of the bonnet and the engine bay and paint it white, clean up the wiring a bit, clean/paint the engine block red again, and fix it up so its nice looking :)

i have to take it out to change the sump gasket cause i tink i destroyed it :(

i even took off the engine mount :) but the bolts remaining is behind the oil filter

Edited December 5, 2014 by SM Hunter

[altezzaclub]

You'll find the carbs will go rich as soon as you boot it.

 

The SUs use the dashpot on top with a piston running in oil to momentarily hold the slide down, so the increasing air velocity over the venturi richens it. A fraction of a second later the piston has pushed its way up through the oil and the air velocity is back at what it should be, and the needle taper controls the fuel richness then.

 

I'm sure the bike carbs will have something similar.

 

It should run around town at 12-14 as you move around in traffic, but once on the open road it should cruise lean, down at 16. Accelerating gives momentary richness then it leans back, and slowly pushing your foot down to go uphill should sit it at 14.7.

 

So, now you'll take the sump off, then check the bearings, lighten the flywheel and before you know it you'll be rebuilding the engine!

 

I'm going up to Woolshed Rallying next weekend, and I'll bring a cam back with me at Xmas. Sadly I won't be able to get it cut until early January as everything will be shut for the Christmas break.

[altezzaclub]

OK, I might be able to get Richo to shoot a spare cam off before Xmas. We could get the same cut that Tighe did for him, I'll put the specs up here when he sends them to me. That was a 3K motor with the cylinders bored to 5K pistons and a 4K head ported and skimmed on it. It runs a single 40mm DCOE Weber and extractors with a 2" exhaust.

 

You could just as eaily work with Kent in the UK, or Auckland Cams in NZ, they will mail all around the world. Take a look at these specs and then chase them for prices & convert them in Euros. These are the upper mid-range cams of each company, they make hotter race cams and milder road cams than these.

 

You should get a set of followers ground afresh too, so the new cam surface is running on a new follower surface. If you go over 0.4" lift (10.2mm) then the valve springs will battle, so you need springs that compress more without binding. I'm not sure exactly how much stock springs will compress without problems, cam grinders say the limit is 0.4". Richo bought Tighe's springs to suit, probably just the Holden springs everyone gets.

 

I'd suggest anything with an advertised duration between 280 and 290deg. After that lift makes the big difference, so if there are two cams to pick from, get the higher lift. I'll leave price choices up to you....

 

Once I have Richard's cam spces I'll get a price fromTighe & let you know what his setup cost.

 

OK, his has max valve lift of 0.46" (11.7mm) Duration is 296 at 10thou tappet gap & 240deg at 50thou. Lobe separation is 106deg. Its basically a 150A cut with different opening and closing times. 37-80 for the inlet, 67-50 for the exhaust. richard didn't order a catalogue cam, they said "send us what the motor has and we'll cut something for you.."

Edited December 6, 2014 by altezzaclub

[SM Hunter]

ahhh awesome! i did not know of Kent cams, they are located in UK? :o

if so ill send them an email and ask them hom much they want for a cam regrind/lifter regrind and a set of spring :)

 

engine out

taking the cam out

cam and lifters

this make life a lot easier! a lfit in the roof that moves left and right on a beam that moves along the roof of the workshop :)

engine bay needs a lot fo cleaning and thinking to hide things and get it nice :) then some paint :)

[altezzaclub]

well, lots to do now-

 

Yes, Kent are in the UK, world-famous cams for many decades. Email them & see what they say. You can get the cam followers machined at a local cam shop.

[SM Hunter]

Thanks for the tip about kent! shipping is reasonalbe but I'm just not sure if i want the T125 or T126... ill be getting some stiffer valve springs aswell, iv heard you need to machine down the rocker towers equal amount of how much higher lift your cam has..?

what you guys think?

Cam Regind is 236 AUD and valve springs is 198AUD... i think this is a fair price compared to the Norwagian prices :)

using your pic for illustration :)

[altezzaclub]

Ok, so its going to cost you $435 plus freight.

 

I've just ph'd Tighe's and they said $240 for the cam, $140 for the springs. So that's $380 plus freight, about $40 internally and $50 overseas, so $470 odd. More than I was expecting.

 

I'd go for the T125, the hotter cams are fine on a race-track with close-ratio gearboxes, but you will have to pull from 3000rpm with a stock box.

[SM Hunter]

Cam is sent to england :) i did choose the T125 :)

Cleaned up the shop :)

Nice angle

ouch

pressure washed

 

 

don't want the regulator here

 

testfitting

can't get bored of watching thees

test fitting

 

[TOMMYS Ke 11]

Hi there Tore ! car is looking great :thumbsup: job well done , as we have done the bike carbie setup I would highly recommend hose clamps on the silicone hoses on the manifold as well as putting a brace from the carbie's back to the engine to remove any vibration out of them as they have a tendency to vibrate off. If you want to have a look at our set up check out ( TOMMYS Ke11 car the year 2013 ) and keep the great work up :2thumbs: Cheers :- Stuart. :wave: have a Merry Xmas @ Great New Year.

[SM Hunter]

Thanks, yeah i need hose clamps there but i need to cut the hoses cause they are touching eachother so i can't fit a hose clamp there...

ahh Thanks for the brace tip, ill try to make something to hold the carbs!

anyways, my new cam has 280 durations and 0.431" lift... you guys think my stupid early 3k valve stems will allow that?

i trired fitting some valve stem seals but i think the clearanse is too small...

but will 0.431" lift be too much for this head? iv orderd stiffer springs but I'm worried about the retainers going to far down... ?

shimmed my oil pump 3mm :)

also orderd some new stuff from Rockauto :)

-New lifters

-New distributor cap

-New condensator

-New rotor

-New plug leads

-new braker points

-new oil filter

-new gasket for sump and cam cover

Edited December 13, 2014 by SM Hunter