After Market Ke Light Column Switch

[corollaart]

Nice work banjo ,maybe a opening for a wiring harness up grade kit form ?

 

rob

[Banjo]

I acquired one those aftermarket steering column combo light switches. The one I purchased has the box markings as NBS101 / CS-10210. It is apparent a Nice Products model.

Inspection indicated the mechanical aspects of the switch were pretty good, & it was well made.

The after market unit had wire colours pretty much the same as the original Toyota unit, except a couple of wires on the “hazzard switch”.

I fitted it, plugged it in, and found that everything worked except the turn indicators.

I then spent a couple of hours tracing all the connections out and taking a note of the wire colours.

The indicators are switched by the light switch stork, & the hazzard warning switch, which flashes all indicators together.

The hazzard switch in the aftermarket unit is a little different to that in the original Toyota combo switch. However, they both work the same way. With the Hazzard switch down, the indicators work normally. When the switch is pulled “up” all indicators flash together.

 

The problem was that the “hazzard switch” was wired up incorrectly, within the combo assembly itself. 20 minutes with a soldering iron, and I had it back the way it should have been. There was no need to add or subtract wiring, or change the pin out on the big connector that plugs into the under dash loom; just rearrange the connections on the hazzard switch itself..

The sketches below show the indicator circuitry, and the wire connections to the “hazard switch” as I modified it.

 

 

_______________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

 

The hazard switch is a bit complicated at first sight, because the turning indicators are only powered via the turn/wiper fuse, when the ignition switch is in the “run/ignition” position.

However, the “alarm hazzard” must work when the ignition switch is off, so it is powered in this mode, via the stop switch fuse, which is always powered.

If you have an aftermarket combo switch you have bought, that doesn’t work, then unsolder all the wires off the hazzard switch, and then resolder them, one at a time, as depicted in the sketch.

I did notice that some of the original soldering in the aftermarket combo switch looked a bit suspect. Dry joints ? I pulled each wire just behind the solder connection, & one on the hi beam light switch came away very easily. I resoldered it. Certainly a wise move to check solder connections, to prevent problems later on.

Only other problem I found was that the brass pin for the horn ring contact was too long, as Jay pointed out earlier in this thread. I cut about 5mm off the end of mine with a hobby hacksaw. However, make sure after cutting it, that you take a small file and some emery paper, & round the head of the brass pin, so it does not dig into the contact ring on the back of the steering wheel. If you don’t, you’ll get a noise like squealing tyres in the distance, whilst driving.

I’ve had the aftermarket switch running in the car for 2 weeks now, without any issues.

Trust this helps anyone who has bought an aftermarket combo switch & discarded it to the junk box, because it didn’t work.

Edited May 8, 2014 by Banjo

[tojo2]

Looks tidy Banjo. Corolla "body repair manual " has wiring diagrams of seperate Circuits relays and switches so easyer to follow.

 

Nissan feeling : yes they have light relays , full current for headlights still goes thru dimmerswitch to ground tho

[Banjo]

Thanks Tojo for putting me in touch with the retro JDM website.

 

Here is the separate wiring diagram from corolla body repair manual for the indicator circuit, in my previous post.

 

 

This next wiring diagram is for the tail & headlights, indicating how the full head light currents do pass through the head light "dipper" switch, despite there being a relay in circuit.

 

 

You can download the full 1974 Corolla body repair manual at the Retro JDM website at

 

http://www.retrojdm....w.asp?ScanID=31

 

Lots of good stuff there.

 

Cheers Banjo

[Banjo]

Finally got around today, to finishing off the rewire of all the rear lights & boot area. The heavy red 60A power feed wire, (Jaycar WH-3061) runs all the way along the LHS of the KE30 from the battery to the boot area. The cable is protected by a fusible link at the up front connection to the battery. It connects directly to the 6 way fuse holder in the boot, which along with four (4) automotive 30A relays, are mounted behind the fuel tank boot panel, out of sight. There isn't a lot of room behind there, because most of the panel is almost hard up against the vertical fuel tank. There is a little room on the RHS, at the top & the bottom, at the back of the panel. This works out well, because the cable from the panel to the rear light assemblies is on the RHS. You can clearly see how it was arranged in the following pics.

 

The 6 way fuse block I got off ebay for $ 15.00 with free postage from HK

 

 

 

 

The fuse block has 6 X 10A fuses for . . . .

 

1. Tail & Licence Plate Lights.

 

2. Stop Lights

 

3. Reversing Lights.

 

4. Boot Interior Lights.

 

5. 12V Power Point (for compressor/trouble lamp/ice box etc.)

 

6. Spare Fuse & Relay Circuit.

 

Likewise the 30A automotive relays were $ 16.00 for a set of 5 off, complete with sockets & wire tails, free postage from HK.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A couple of guys have PM'd me asking for wiring diagrams. I'm currently sketching them up, and will scan & post them here once finished.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited May 10, 2014 by Banjo

[Banjo]

Here is the wiring diagram for the rewired boot area lighting. It's pretty simple, but may assist some people who want to get brighter lights.

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited May 11, 2014 by Banjo