GJM85 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Posted March 21, 2013 (edited) It's a 5k with a standard k motor alternator, 480 CCA battery. I've had the alternator tested about 8 months ago. Has a new regulator also. The first issue has been an on going one. With headlights on, the charge light comes on when I use other accessories. (ie. reverse lights, indicators or wipers). This hasn't bothered me so much as they're only on for a short time. The second is, at high speed (85mph/4500rpm onwards) the charge light begins to glow. Any ideas? Edited March 21, 2013 by GJM85 Quote
springersrolla Posted March 21, 2013 Report Posted March 21, 2013 is it really bright or just a dull glow?? how is the earths? much meat left on the brushes? Quote
altezzaclub Posted March 21, 2013 Report Posted March 21, 2013 Yeah, pull the alty apart and check the brushes and rotor surface where they rub. Check the wires from the windings in case one has broken and is just touchng where it is soldered on, then lifts off a high revs. Unsolder the diodes and test them too, in case one has failed.. I suppose you could get it load tested at an electricians again, it sounds like its only putting out half its power. Quote
GJM85 Posted March 21, 2013 Author Report Posted March 21, 2013 (edited) I might pull it out this weekend and check the brushes and windings. Any idea where I can get new brushes? The charge light comes on as a dull glow and gets brighter as revs increase. I've noticed auxiliaries connected to the battery such as the stereo, tachometer and thermo fan don't trigger the charge light. I ay need to look around for another alternator. Edited March 21, 2013 by GJM85 Quote
springersrolla Posted March 21, 2013 Report Posted March 21, 2013 ill have a look at home for one, i had a bosch alternator i pulled from a pintara with a ca20 in it, i had to swap front housing and pulleys but it was practically brand new, just needed a few washers between the brackets to hold it on. when i was at the wreckers i just took a screwdriver and pulled out a few bosch regulators to see the difference and found some near new ones. i believe an auto lecy should be able to get you some for under $50. i would probably just do the alternator upgrade but, pretty easy and gives good power Quote
GJM85 Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) Well.... It's not the alternator. The 20 was taken by the gremlins this afternoon. Taken.... I tried to use the wipers on the way home fro work and it all went to hell. The wipers stopped half stroke and now there gone. I've lost head lights, the temp gauge goes off the dial and the fuel gauge stays at half even though there is ʞ©$ɟ all in the tank. I've lost indicators on the dash aswell as the high beam alert light. The high beam switch causes the little black box to buzz it's had off. When I turn the wipers on, the dash illumination comes on. When I disconnect the wiper switch the illumination goes away and I get my indicator dash lights back but nothing else. The headlight switch turns the ignition on and I get charge light and oil light but to head lights except parkers no tail lights.... Now the little black box. This relay is unknown.... I believe it's a head light relay. AutoOne couldn't tell me either could the auto leccy. It buzzes like crazy if I pull the high beam on. I've pulled it apart and if I hold the switch on it triggers the ignition and I get dash lights, thermo fan and the tachometer just start going crazy.... I think this black box is my blight. The alternator is putting out 13.75 volts at idle. A three pronged relay. Where the hell can I find one.... Edited March 22, 2013 by GJM85 Quote
rian Posted March 22, 2013 Report Posted March 22, 2013 3 pin relays are readily available at Jaycar, Repco, SCA etc but they look like this: 1 Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted March 22, 2013 Report Posted March 22, 2013 Quick google search of 'auto relay internals' : Quote
altezzaclub Posted March 22, 2013 Report Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) Is it a relay? Sure, power through some pissy little switch on the headlight stalk puts a current through the windings 'A'. That works the electromagnet, which is what 'A' is, and sucks up the steel plate with its connection 'C", which allows power through the big contacts 'B' and 'C'. There will be an activator wire for 'A' and two circuit wires for 'B' and 'C'. So you can pass more current through there without getting losses. The points B and C do burn out, as do the windings and the contacts get shitty 'n dirty and wet. Edited March 22, 2013 by altezzaclub Quote
GJM85 Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) I wired in a 4 point relay..... It does the same thing... Buzzes like mad. This is just farked. I have absolutely no idea what the ʞ©$ɟ is going on....... I'm looking at the alternator again. I've heard you can get all sorts of problems from there. Edited March 22, 2013 by GJM85 Quote
altezzaclub Posted March 23, 2013 Report Posted March 23, 2013 Buzzes like mad. That sounds like it is either not getting enough power to hold closed, or not getting a clean enough earth to hold it closed. Unless you're getting AC current in there... Time to investigate the alternator. Quote
GJM85 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Posted March 27, 2013 (edited) I took the beast to the auto electricians yesterday. They fixed it with in a half hour. Bad earth. The body to engine block strap was old and rustic and wasn't carrying current well. So there you go. A bad earth will mess all your shit up. Today I replaced the alternator to battery wire and rectumfied my charge light issue. Charge signal went from 13.75 volts at idle to 13.98 volts at idle. Under full load with stereo, hazards, head lights, high beam, thermo fan, brake lights and wipers the battery output fluctuates between 11 and 12.9 volts, Hooray! Edited March 27, 2013 by GJM85 Quote
springersrolla Posted March 27, 2013 Report Posted March 27, 2013 good shit! something so simple but!!! not a bad thing to upgrade on old cars when everything corrodes Quote
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