luk3333 Posted July 22, 2013 Author Report Posted July 22, 2013 Thanks :) Yesterday I relocated the ignition coil to the fire wall in an attempt to clean up the engine bay a bit and remove clutter. It was very easy, I just removed the quarter panel, stripped back the tape to where I wanted, thread the wiring through an existing hole, taped it back up and bolted it to the firewall using an existing hole. I just need to shorten the ignition cable, and its done. I've also ordered a Bosch GT40 coil which is in the post. I found these bargains on ebay Centerlines, front are 13x6 +20(I think) rear are 14x7 +0. The rear make me drool... The fronts I haven't tried yet. A good clean and polish and they will look tasty as. Also came with these which are for sale if anyone wants them, or the go to the tip as I don't have space for them. Quote
luk3333 Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Posted July 25, 2013 (edited) I finished the boot mount, using two eye bolt and a occy strap I also mounted up the new wheels. I'm not so sure on the fronts, the 13's with 65 sidewall don't fit as well as the 14's with a 65. They also need at least a 20mm spacer for decent fitment. The rear shank nuts needed three washers to stop them bottoming out on the drum The $30 GT40 off ebay also arrived. I gave it a quick clean, repainted the bracket, and installed it without the ballast resistor after checking it wasn't a GT40r. It is wired in using spade connectors. I've ordered front LCA, rear shock top and bottom and sway bar bushings all round, SW20 Excel G's, Slotted and drilled rotors, HPX QFM pads, and HEL brake lines too, so I'm very keen for the mail man :P And lastly I think I've found out why my diff is making a bad noises... The oil has ended up on the inside of my rim... New seal time I think Edited July 25, 2013 by luk3333 Quote
Mechanical Sympathy Posted July 25, 2013 Report Posted July 25, 2013 (edited) Before you throw those 8 spoke Toyota alloys to the tip, please would you remove and sell and post me the 4 centre caps? I'd come get them but centra coast is like, Coffs Harbour? I'm in Brisbane.. Edited July 25, 2013 by Mechanical Sympathy Quote
luk3333 Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Posted July 25, 2013 Sure thing :) Central coast is in between Sydney and Newcastle about 4 hrs south of Coffs, I'll check out postage tomorrow Quote
RhysE Posted July 25, 2013 Report Posted July 25, 2013 The rears are the same wheels I have all round :) they look good aye Quote
luk3333 Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Posted July 25, 2013 Yea, I would love it if the fronts fit like the back, but these were bargain so I'm not complaining haha Quote
luk3333 Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Posted August 6, 2013 (edited) So fair bit going on with the rolla. General maintenance; replaced the gearbox output shaft seal thats been leaking since I did the manual conversion Painted up my struts, brakes, brake mounts, dust shield and calipers in anticipation for my shocks, discs pads and lines which were put in the post on Monday so I'm waiting eagerly. Bushes have arrived, and SW20 to AE86 strut adaptor kit. Got a 5k!! It's not just any 5k either, apparently had 4age pistons and cam. Pulled off the head and it has .050 pistons not 4age pistons which is what I was expecting since the seller said the block hadn't been decked. Haven't checked out the cam yet and I've lost the txt with the specs... Hoping it is stamped on it somewhere. Can't believe how shallow the 5K head is. It is also pretty clean, no sign of mayonaise. This afternoon I'm going out to get a syringe and some perspex so I can cc the head and combustion chamber and calculate the compression ratio. The plan for this engine is: Convert to solid lifters, got a set of solid lifters and pushrods from a 4k spare here, just need rockers. If the compression isn't above 10.5, get it there with flat top pistons and a shaved 4k head. -Depending on the cam, get something suited to the 3000 - 6000 sort of range. I want something that comes on fairly early as it is a street engine firstly. -Port, match and polish. Considering I have a Dremel already it's practically a free kilowatt so I might as well put in the extra effort. -New head gasket, head bolts and intake/exhaust gasket. -Side draughts. -Move engine back 15mm. The drive shaft is about this much too short so instead of getting another shaft I'll modify the mounts. -Balance rods and pistons myself -Get price and balance/ lighten crank depending on cost -Lighten flywheel Also check out my work area haha Edited August 6, 2013 by luk3333 Quote
rian Posted August 6, 2013 Report Posted August 6, 2013 (edited) I might have missed something, but are you using a GT40 with a points type distributor and no ballast resistor? That's probably not going to last too long before you burn out the points. Your brake setup is sounding pretty cool! I've got HEL braided brake lines and I really like them, pedal felt so much better with them installed although that could have just been that the brakes were bled after I installed them haha. How come you didn't go with A1RM pads over the HPX? I'd be keen to get your opinion on the HPXs though, I'll be looking for pads soon and QFM is what I'll be getting. Did you get them from GSL rallysport? And I see you've got the ADM AE86 calipers but you're using vented rotors, did you get special brake pads or something? Edited August 6, 2013 by rian Quote
luk3333 Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Posted August 6, 2013 You might be right about the points burning out, I'm still not heaps familiar with dizzy and points style ignition. From what I read, a GT40r requires a ballast resistor, but a GT40 doesn't, but I don't know if the extra current will burn out the points. I installed new points a week or so before the coil so I should be able to tell pretty easily if the coil burns them out. They are only $8 anyway. Yea, GSL is pretty good, I've used them a few times. I went with QFM HPX for a few reasons. I've used them in my last car ('02 Mazda 323) and they were a good improvement on stock, to save some money, and because I didn't think I would be requiring the performance of the A1RM pads, I mostly just street drive with a hard mountain run maybe every 2 weeks. Also I've heard dimpled/ grooved rotors eat the pads a lot quicker so I didn't want to invest the extra money if they were going to get worn away quickly anyway. I explained that I wanted to run vented rotors but with ADM callipers to GSL and they said I'd have to use pads with 3mm taken off, so that's is what I got. I wasn't sure whether to go rubber or braided, but since they needed to be replaced I figured I might as well try braided. Hope it pays off haha. Quote
rian Posted August 6, 2013 Report Posted August 6, 2013 Ahh cool. That's good that you got the correct brake pads. Yeah the braided lines are well worth it, if you went to Repco and priced rubber lines you'd find that they're well over $100 anyway, so may as well go the braided ones instead. HEL are ADR too! And I think the GT40 is for electronic distributors (12v) and the GT40R is for points distributors (6-9v). Quote
rian Posted August 6, 2013 Report Posted August 6, 2013 Dude nice front bumper by the way! haha Why don't you chuck it on the rear? Quote
luk3333 Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Posted August 6, 2013 Thanks :) I don't know what it is off, got it for $30 haha. I suppose i put it on the front even though it is a rear bar because I just couldn't stand the meter long diving board attached to the front of the car, the back didn't bother me as much. Ah well, I'll see how I go with the GT40, if the points burn out quickly then I'll go find the ballast resistor and chuck it on. Quote
rian Posted August 6, 2013 Report Posted August 6, 2013 It's a t18 rear bumper bar by the looks of it. You got it for cheap! Quote
luk3333 Posted August 23, 2013 Author Report Posted August 23, 2013 Story time. Chapter 1: Suspension FINALLY arrived. 4 weeks. Not cool. Started assembling, first the Ajps spacer is too big. Cut that shiz down to length. Then the disc kept hitting part of the break mount so got the grinder out. Then the pads were the wrong fit. Turns out I have JDM callipers... Cool, so I didn't have to wait 4 weeks for special brake pads to run vented rotors, but now for the JDM pads they are sold out of HPX and I have to get A1RM's or wait 6 weeks. Guess which I chose, $$$$$$. More waiting. Chapter 2: Starting smoothing out the intake runners, deshrouding the valves and making everything nice. I found the solid lifter I have don't fit and I can't be ʞ©$ɟed findind a set that fit, getting the cam reground, lifters faced, rockers machined... So whatever cam is in there, is in there. $$ are tight so crank won't be lightened/balanced, pistons/rods will still be. Chapter 3: Kamei Lip arrived, looks the goods. Needs some fitment adjusting. Chapter 4: FINALLY GOT DEFECTED WHILE DOING PIZZA RUNS. list goes: Battery not secure Front tyres below marker oil leak (below fuel pump) Wires not secure Rear seats not fitted Something about the front seatbelts, they work and aren't torn and I can't read his scrawl so I'm not sure what's going on there Fog light (says front fog light, not sure what other fog lights there are) not secured properly, I'm guesing he is talking about my indicator, unless he knows about the fog lights I want to buy and that I wasn't going to secure them right. Over flow bottle not standard ( I told him the redbull can gave me 10 extra killowatts. He didn't laugh.) So I've got some fixing to do this weekend. LOL Quote
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