Ke Clutch Adjuster

[Banjo]

I've been tempted for a while to do a hydraulic clutch conversion on my KE30. However, my wife never complains of a heavy clutch pedal, and the cable arrangement is simple & generally reliable. I've found the only problem you have with the cable is it going "dry" on the big radius. Every couple of years I pull the cable out & hang the outer sheath vertically in the vice. I then move the inner cable up & down, & squirt some light engine oil down into the sheath, until it drips out the bottom. That way I know the whole cable is oiled. I once bought an Asian aftermarket cable for a KE, and it was terrible. It didn't have the Teflon lining over the inner cable like the Toyota OEM cable, and it bound on the large radius. Even generous lubrication did not help much.

 

The design of making the clutch adjustment accessible in the enging bay was a great Toyota idea. Most cars require you get under neath ot put it on a hoist to adjust a threaded rod with lock nuts.

 

However, the firewall adjustment of the KE series leaves a lot to be desired, as the little clip breaks, pops out, often never to be seen again.

 

 

I guess most Rollas of that vintage have something like the following to replace the little C clip.

 

 

The wire hose clamp seems a better idea that the band type as they resist slipping. I've found that I need two small band ones in series to take the forces involved.

 

I've often thought of making a threaded tube, which could be attached to the outer sheath, with a couple of large adjusting lock nuts.

 

I've not come across any aftermarket device or design on the net. I would be interested in hearing what others have improvised on RollaClub, or whether anyone has a good design alternative.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited January 12, 2013 by Banjo

[altezzaclub]

I'm with most, using a screw clamp just like that right-hand photo. I've put a spacer in there too just to get the pedal at the right height.

 

What actually happens is that the alloy walls of the grooves snap off, so the circlip can't grip. I've used two circlips in the past, with a spacer between, so at least one gets a good groove to lock into.

 

I also hang it from the roof and fill it with engine oil when I have it out. I'm quite happy with a cable, its not worth the trouble to change to hydraulic.

[love ke70]

engine oil will attract shit, you need graphite powder.

[GJM85]

eBay Ke20 clutch cable. I put a spring washer at the very top and have about 50% Pedal action. Seemed very long for a fresh cable.

Edited January 12, 2013 by GJM85

[Banjo]

Can you still puchase those clutch adjuster circlips

 

from Toyota ? I haven't tried, as I've always had a donor car close by or removed one when at the wreckers.

 

A couple of new ones would be good as they would have clean edges, and I like the idea of using two with a spacer in between to give the extra hold required.

 

Cheers Banjo

[altezzaclub]

I buy them from the local engineering supplies shop, I have a couple of sizes of 'C' clips I need for machinery I fix. 20c each or something. They sell bearings, tools, chemicals, castors, rollers, general handy stuff.

[CorollaNut68]

eBay Ke20 clutch cable. I put a spring washer at the very top and have about 50% Pedal action. Seemed very long for a fresh cable.

I got one of those too long cables once...find a small piece of some kind of metal tubing about the same size as the end of the sheath so it can butt against it, and use it for a spacer (cut to length) at the bottom end where it goes through the block. It has to be about the size of the hole through the block because you have to thread the tranny end of the cable through it. Put it on the block side to take up the slack, when the cable is adjusted it will hold it in place ( leave a bit of adjusting room for your clip at the top end) and you can get all your pedal back. I've been making my own cables since then. Edited February 1, 2013 by CorollaNut68

[wagn]

I bought this from japan i think they are made by some small aftermarket parts company for a kp61 starlet.

Works perfectly since i installed it over a year ago

[Banjo]

Hi Haydn,

That's perfect. Thanks for the tip. They are called locking or clamping collars, and are usually sold by bearing suppliers, or engineering or fastner suppliers.

 

I Googled images of clamping collars, and there are lots of different varieties.

 

 

Tomorrow I'll measure up the clutch cable with a vernier, & get some dimensions & a part number of a suitable one.

 

A great idea would be to get one with an inside diameter, the same size as the clutch cable sheath dia. at the bottom of the goove, where the "C" clip sits. You could then machine the collar out slightly from either side, until it left a little section in the middle, that could sit down in the groove, and really locate it perfectly.

 

Cheers Banjo

[Banjo]

Hi Guys,

I accurately measured the section of the clutch cable where the C Clip is fitted. It has an

outside dia. of 13.8 mm. The grooves are exactly 1.00 mm deep & 1.00 mm wide. A new C clip is exactly

1.00 mm thick. That would make the dia. of the bottom of the grooves for the C clip 11.8 mm. I'll now try

and find a "clamping collar" like Hadyn's above that has the appropriate dimensions.

 

Stay tuned !

[B.L.Z.BUB]

look here: www.ruland.com

[Banjo]

Hi Reed,

That's exactly where I am looking. I believe that Industrial Bearing Suppliers are Ruland agents in Australia. I'm planning on giving them a ring tomorrow, and see whether they have the split models I have picked out as being suitable. The Ruland range is massive, so I can't assume they would not stock the lot.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited February 3, 2013 by Banjo

[lyricallyters]

I have a problem with my clutch cable at the moment. I have the rubber spacer that goes in the firewall and the two circlips adjusted to maximum tension and hooked up to the clutch fork and it is still slack. Anyone know why it would be so loose? It's a ke70 cable on a 30 not sure if that's why.. Sorry to thread-jack banjo haha