altezzaclub Posted October 17, 2012 Report Posted October 17, 2012 We pulled a strut out whle we were doing other things under there and popped the shock retaining nut off. It is a wet shock, not an insert, factory I assume, so it can be modified to any sort of bump or rebound we would like. However it will never be gas pressurised! The next retaining ring down in the strut has a flat top and 3mm two pin holes, so I assume there is a steel tube tool with two pins sticking out of it that unscrews that ring and allows the whole shaft and foot valve to be removed. Then we can redrill bleed valves or seal them up and change the oil.... Anyone got one for a KE70 or knows what they look like?? Quote
styler Posted October 21, 2012 Report Posted October 21, 2012 Hmmm are you sure it doesn't just pop out after the retaining nut is removed? I dismantled wet struts once and didn't have any hassles that I remember... I have seen aftermarket dampers come with a new nut with the holes you describe and the trick is to use an adjustable pin spanner which is used to change the discs on angle grinders or weld on extensions to the pins if the access is very recessed. Quote
parrot Posted October 21, 2012 Report Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) I have this one which from memory is for a KE1x but presumably others. Pins are 40mm apart. EDIT: WRONG see below The tool is flat so couldn't cope if the plate you mentioned is recessed. Once upon a time we would use a long thin punch and tap it around. Edited October 21, 2012 by parrot Quote
altezzaclub Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Posted October 21, 2012 Once upon a time we would use a long thin punch and tap it around. Ah yes, I know that tool well! I'm trying to be nice to these ones... The Datsun ones used to just pop out, but I think KE70 are screwed in, which is why they have the holes for a special tool. I think I'll make one from a bit of thickwall tube that I can drill a couple of pins into, slide it down over the shock shaft & swing a plumbers wrench on it. Quote
styler Posted October 21, 2012 Report Posted October 21, 2012 Hmmm I'm sure after a few pulls it all just popped out as the thread doesn't go that far down but if its threaded its probably just done up gently and not torqued up... or so you hope! Quote
parrot Posted October 21, 2012 Report Posted October 21, 2012 My tool is a Toyota SST and looking at it, there is no way it would cope with any torquing. My experience of wetlegs is that they were basically just nipped up and came apart pretty uneventfully. Quote
Jono.C Posted October 21, 2012 Report Posted October 21, 2012 I have this one which from memory is for a KE1x but presumably others. Pins are 40mm apart. The tool is flat so couldn't cope if the plate you mentioned is recessed. Once upon a time we would use a long thin punch and tap it around. Hmmm, My ke10 ones just have a cap that's pressed on? Quote
parrot Posted October 21, 2012 Report Posted October 21, 2012 No you are indeed correct Jono. I had a look in the parts book, cross referencing the part number, and the tool pictured is in fact a worm screw adjusting tool for a KE20 steering box. Have edited my post above. Quote
styler Posted October 21, 2012 Report Posted October 21, 2012 So far I've come across sheet metal nuts, slotted nuts and pin style nuts with the last two being a pain as a punch mangles them or you buy an adjustable pin spanner and sometimes grind it to suit. Last I remember I just yanked the whole lot out after removing the gland nut but hey I could be wrong :P Quote
parrot Posted October 21, 2012 Report Posted October 21, 2012 The actual SST illustrated in the parts book is essentially a piece of pipe with welded pins as altezzaclub describes Quote
altezzaclub Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Posted October 21, 2012 hmmm.... OK, I'll pull it apart again sometime over the summer and photograph what is in there. I'm sure the Datsun ones just pulled out, as you say, but I figured these needed a pin tool. Thanks guys, if anyone pulls one apart, let us know how it works. Quote
snot35 Posted October 22, 2012 Report Posted October 22, 2012 (edited) The TE72 struts that I stripped down were the same. They looked like they needed a pin spanner, but they were actually just pressed in. I think there may have been a rubber seal which made them feel a little more stubborn. I put the strut in a vice, the top cap back on and then did a "sliding hammer action" to get them out. Didn't take too much persuasion. Edited October 22, 2012 by snot35 Quote
altezzaclub Posted October 22, 2012 Author Report Posted October 22, 2012 Ok, ta- We will try that when we have them apart next. Quote
parrot Posted October 22, 2012 Report Posted October 22, 2012 Rather than put your strut tubes in a vice, make up a right angle piece of steel like a large piece of angle iron. Drill two holes on one angle to mount the bottom of the strut tube to, the other side of the angle goes in the vice. Quote
snot35 Posted October 22, 2012 Report Posted October 22, 2012 Yeah, just to make sure no one thinks I'm totally dodgy, I drilled the appropriate holes in some RHS to mount them to before putting them in the vice :) Quote
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