Little Gremlins In My Rolla This Time..

[MaximusPsychosis]

MMM-kay my friends! I have a few issues to resolve on my AE82... 1st'ly carby, its acting like a vacuum leak, but I've been over it many times, rechecked manifold bolts, carby bolts etc, nothing is pointing out the obvious, only the "Gas filter" (I plug that into the system, cylinder 1 goes lean, and doesn't fire, it takes what to get it to fire, just..) choke is erratic, goes high/low when ever it feels like it, despite the fact its hosed up to spec in the maintenance manual. When I disable it and its impossible to start cold.. (if I can throw a manual choker on there, or rig up the old one with meccano pieces, or fit a 2/3/4K carby on it). Also, the anti-dieseling valves are shot, no power to them, but the motor still runs..

 

Threw another carby on, jerky when idling down the road, or down hill, people think I'm bunny hopping the car down hill :/

I think them valves were shot too, car doesn't power them anyway..

 

Next thing is, Thermal fans, don't run, even when i pull the thermal switch plug, or the gas plug on the air con

new relay, nope, cross relay points, nope, nothing, multi-meter on all possible connections (fan plugs, fuse plug, relay plug, etc..), dead.. fans are free, but I have yet to throw them onto their own power (direct connect, too lazy..)

 

now tell me, other then battery to car body and the rest to the rest, is there a common earth... wait, these items are connected to the motor to work.. I wonder if the motor is earthed to the body :-? wait, car starts, so its not that... unless the starter motor uses another earth?

 

And lastly, when the key is rightly off, and door open, the interior light is randomly dimming out a little, then coming back full brightness, nothing was touched in the mean time, nothing else was on.. do I need to rewire the old girl?

 

Bah! throw me a 1C or 2C-T motor any day! for I have no Clue on how a diesel motor works... where are their butterflies and jets?

 

 

 

 

anywho, time to run

[altezzaclub]

What's the "gas filter"?? the fuel filter? If it goes lean when you connect it then that one is blocked I expect.

 

An air leak could also come fron a hole in the advance diaphram on the dizzy, so suck through that too.

 

The choke can be checked visually can't it? "on" when cold "off" when warm, and it will lift the idle speed when cold. Of course, an air leak will make that play up too.

 

I thought the fuel solenoids were "power off=fuel off" types, so if they burned out they would shut the fuel off. So if yours allow the car to keep running maybe they are jammed open. Maybe that carb needs a strip and clean and rebuild.

 

When the light is on and flickering, fiddle with the door switch. A bit of corrosion under the door switch earth will cause it to flicker.

 

My Rolla bunnyhops going downhill in a low gear like second, because I run the SU carbs very lean on over-run. Feels like an airleak makes it jerky...

 

Check the earth from the fans as well as checking them with a direct 12V feed. The motor all earths back through the same wire, so check that each end of it is clean and tight.

[MaximusPsychosis]

forgot to mention, I have replaced the carby, rebuilt and replaced the old, motor did the same thing on both, replaced the dizzy, still rough, negate the dizzy (no advancing when revving) rougher then 150 grit toilet paper.. replaced the gasket and remounted the flange/inlet manifold, last bugger who did it left 3 bolts loose.

 

The gas filter sits on the intake manifold, just before the 1st piston, it is a little 2 or 3 vacuum plug (mine is 2, there is 3 out there, going by the manual) that runs inline of the vacuum to turn on the EGR valve on the air cleaner box, I have a small vacuum hose on both ends, the valve line is directly connected to the carby (it diesn't work anyway, only barely leaks exhaust into the airbox.

 

as for the fuel solenoids, they are "power off=fuel off" odd that 2 sets of these do the same thing (2 different carbies)

 

could be the switch for the lights, although I have noticed it with parkers on too.. well with the dash lights at least..

 

the only other thing I can think of is the brake booster lines, they look like the same from factory..

 

i'll check out the fan earthing tomorrow, got one of them new bute multi-meters that buzz at you when you cross probes! ...still there is no power out of their sockets when I disconnect the temp sensor, and I've replaced the solenoid 3 times now (old one, one from a wreck, and one $30 one from an auto's shop, none worked)

 

I gotta find myself the old blade terminals to wire up power to test these items on their own..

 

 

On the other hand, I have another asian carby, looking a little newer, off I think a Y engine (the hilux motors). I think I could mate it up but the outer control valve is attached to the body of the carb? not sure of the condition of the rubbers, since its been sitting for some time, but meh..

 

or I could just do a complete deletion of the vacuum hoses on the old girl, then start rewire, ehh, re-hose even? the needed parts (wanna keep the regulatory bodies happy)..

 

 

anywho, its tat tiem agn!

/me runs

[altezzaclub]

Ok, the diaphram at the end of the gas filter line must be leaking. I assume somehow it bleeds vacuum from te inlet manifold to the EGR valve and sucks it open to recycle exhaust gases. So no air is meant to pass down that gas filter line, it should just have a varying vacuum inside. The leak causes #1 to run lean.

 

Check that out to start with then tackle the next bit of the problem.

 

Here's the diagram for a 4K. You can probalby find yours on Google. The BVSV line sits on top of the EGR-V unit and pulls a diaphram open. The bottom of the EGR-VM (not shown) is where exhasut gases are taken out of the manifold when the EGR-V is opened. I blocked the rubber lines where the red dots are using 10mm lengths of 4" nails and just kept the green lines. The whole thing looked stock but only worked the dizzy advance and the charcoal filter. Car ran fine.

 

What advance is it on at idle now, and have you checked that the weights in the dizzy do advance it?

[carbonboy]

So many questions, I have some of my own. :)

 

What engine do you have?

 

How's the ignition timing?

 

There should be two earth wires going from the battery's negative terminal. One to the top of the gearbox & the other to the body.

 

*Taking a punt on what engine you have:

 

 

[Addicted]

It's my old car, It has a 4AC 5spd manual. Head has been redone 40k ago. now when I had it, it was no where near as bad however it may have been an infant gremlin. I swapped the relay for the cooling fans and they ran once, put a new relay in and they haven't run again. It was a once off. It had a shitty idle that improved with leads and plugs. The car is running rich, it has a shit load of power, drives well but will NOT now idle below 1400 rpm approx. I bought the emmisions control, body and engine Toyota manuals off ebay and everything as far as emissions is hooked up right. Can't do the timing properly because I can't set an idle. Basically the idle is set as if you were trying to keep it running on 2 cylinders. at one point on the 4 plugs one was reddish, 2 were sooted and one was lean. I can not hear an air leak, but I am wondering if it may be time to do a manifold gasket due to trying to get the exhaust/inlet 2 piece set up square. I have been working on cars for 17 years and I assisted with the manifolds going back on and I'm quite willing to admit to my friend and say well, maybe I got it wrong if it is looking like a manifold gasket. Thing is I can't hear a leak

[Addicted]

Maybe because it's red (Really) and it's a Corolla it just wants to go fast Oh and Compression is 150 across the board so mechanically the engine is fine and it has good spark + 2 Carbies (one rebuilt) are doing the same thing

Edited September 21, 2012 by Addicted