Bolt On Guard Help...

[chrisfindlay]

Hey guys I have bolt on guards or flairs as some people may call them, I'm just wandering if anyone had pictures from when they installed theirs as I want to do it right, but I've never met anyone with it done, or seen how anyone has done the job.. So I don't really know how to go about doing it, I've heard stories of some people cutting their old flair out completely, and others cutting it into strips! Please help!

 

Any help, tips or pointers are greatly appreciated, cheers.

[styler]

Ke corollas have single skin front guards and double skin rear wheel well.

 

So for the fronts you bolt them on and trace an outline and cut a bit below that

so the flare and bolts have something to mount on. It's wise to add a strengthing strip behind

as the original lip now been cut out, I would recommend some really small aluminium box section

or thick flat strap formed to the arch and then the flare bolts through that as well.

That's as far as I have thought it through.

 

Rears are a double skin wheel well and it needs to be reformed through fabrication by cutting and then

extending the wheel well straight outwards using a weld in strip and fabricated back on to the existing skin to

leave only the inner well intact and the flare forms the other half outer section. I have seen pop rivited and

fibreglassed jobs but it's not as strong or well done as the welded jobs. Or you can flare out the arch with a guard

roller a certain amount before it distorts the bodywork and run the flare over that but it's a second rate job but avoids

the difficult fabrication so is common. It can be tricky.

 

Remember the arc that the wheel travels in is different for independent and live axle setups so consider the motion

and clearance you need when the suspension is operating in that area.

 

That's as far as I got and haven't cut anything yet so we will see.

Edited April 29, 2012 by styler

[chrisfindlay]

Ke corollas have single skin front guards and double skin rear wheel well.

 

So for the fronts you bolt them on and trace an outline and cut a bit below that

so the flare and bolts have something to mount on. It's wise to add a strengthing strip behind

as the original lip now been cut out, I would recommend some really small aluminium box section

or thick flat strap formed to the arch and then the flare bolts through that as well.

That's as far as I have thought it through.

 

Rears are a double skin wheel well and it needs to be reformed through fabrication by cutting and then

extending the wheel well straight outwards using a weld in strip and fabricated back on to the existing skin to

leave only the inner well intact and the flare forms the other half outer section. I have seen pop rivited and

fibreglassed jobs but it's not as strong or well done as the welded jobs. Or you can flare out the arch with a guard

roller a certain amount before it distorts the bodywork and run the flare over that but it's a second rate job but avoids

the difficult fabrication so is common. It can be tricky.

 

Remember the arch that the wheel travels in is different for independent and live axle setups so consider the motion

and clearance you need when the suspension is operating in that area.

 

That's as far as I got and haven't cut anything yet so we will see.

 

Thanks man, helps heaps, ill post a full update in my build thread when I do them, of how I went about it etc, so for future it can be of some use to anyone else..

 

Also I'm not using bolt on's to tuck tyres, or make the keto look lower, just simply need them as my guards are flaired as far as they will possibly go, and my wheels still don't sit inside the car.. Oops 15x10 will do that I suppose.. So when I put my bolt on's in my wheels will be exactly flat with the outer edge of the bolt on, :)

[styler]

Yeah just remember where people get caught out on this one is that the live axle travels

with both wheels straight upwards under accelearation, not like independent where the wheels

squat and move inwards with an arc motion. What the japs do for live axle is run small wheels

and stretched rubber to get around this and it allows some but not a lot of wheel travel.

Might draw some pics during the week to explain but if you can think logically that wheel is going

to go somewhere when it moves, how does it move and how far is it going to go?

[styler]

15"x10" will make your steering very heavy due to the large scrub radius, I can't imagine theres too much room

under the guard and so the wheel offset would be very low, therefore resulting in a large scrub radius.

 

Max tyre size is also 1.3x manufacturers biggest option for that car series for qld regulations.

 

Tyre stretch reduces traction and grip if that's what you want.

[KeYo]

Hey guys i've got an 84 corolla ke70 and was thinking about rolling the guards i'm not gain enough to do it myself so was wondering if anyone could help me i live in QLD Brisbane - Contact 0468321999

[Feral4K]

Hey mate check out my build thread might be helpfull, cheers FRAL4K