coonaPWR Posted April 23, 2012 Report Posted April 23, 2012 i have searched and found nothing usefull anywhere, how do you get your base timing after having the dizzy out? I'm guessing rotor pointing to cyl 1 at TDC. but its not working for me (may have other issuses). just thought id make sure I'm doing it right to eliminate that problem. also whats the go with this check plug? i have to short it out or something while i set the timing, where do i locate this plug and how many pin and what colour wires? engine is a 4age bigport 16v out of an ae82. cheers in advance Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted April 23, 2012 Report Posted April 23, 2012 The answer will be in here somewhere... http://mitchee.com/ae82/4A-GEManual.pdf 1 Quote
Sephiroth Posted April 23, 2012 Report Posted April 23, 2012 From memory there's a diagnosis box near your air box some where and I think you bridge TE1 and E1 (not 100% sure will have to double check) with a paper clip start the car adjust your timing using a timing light when she's right turn her off pull bridge pin out and start car and then make sure the idle comes up when you turn air con electrical loads and what not on hope that helps Cheers Jaesn Quote
coonaPWR Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Posted April 23, 2012 cheers mate, i just have to find it now lol Quote
Sephiroth Posted April 23, 2012 Report Posted April 23, 2012 cheers mate, i just have to find it now lol I'm sure it's near the air box or strut tower has diagnostic written on the top not to hard to find and inside the cap has the pin locations to make it easy for ya Quote
Hiro Protagonist Posted April 23, 2012 Report Posted April 23, 2012 AE82s bigports don't have the diagnosis box, they've just got a bunch of yellow plugs grouped together behind the passenger side strut tower 1 Quote
coonaPWR Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Posted April 23, 2012 the motors in a ke70 anyway so that makes it even harder. what needs to be done to get some sort of base timing so it will at least start and run? (say the dizzys out and your starting from scratch, so set it at TDC.... then what? what has to be lined up etc. cheers Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted April 23, 2012 Report Posted April 23, 2012 Crank pulley to the TDC bolt. Cam marks lined up. Dizzy to 1. Read that PDF I linked its all in there. Quote
coonaPWR Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Posted April 24, 2012 my computers too slow to load that link. i lined the crank and cams up with TDC, put the rotor cap to cyl 1. and the closest it will come to running is when i have stopped cranking it over, it lumps over a few times then stops. but theres not even a fire or anything while I'm cranking, only after. anyone know what the ʞ©$ɟ is wrong? i have also tried 1 tooth either way on the dizzy, and spun it 180. Quote
ke70dave Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 (edited) got a timing light? that will tell you. you don't NEED to do the T1-E1 thing to get it running. from memory if you don't have the t1-e1 linked you get about 16degrees BTDC timing at idleish. connect those pins and it drops it to about 10deg BTDC. it will run in a massive range, i think i even had it running on something like 10degress After TD....and something rediculous like 40 BTDC. it doesnt run very well......but it did run. best bet is to keep trying to start it will spinning the dizzy slowly one side to the other. you might be very close. just need to adjust it. but yeah get a timing light, all will be revealed. Edited April 24, 2012 by ke70dave Quote
coonaPWR Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Posted April 24, 2012 so the timimg light will tell me while its being turned over? because when i say lump over its like 1-2 second gaps between each fire lol so i don't think it would be counted as "running" Quote
ke70dave Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 yep. put some white out on the timing mark on the crank pulley so you can see it easier. connect timing light. get your mate to turn over engine. shoot timing light at crank pulley. if you can't see the mark your way off. if you can just see the mark way off in the distance (uber advanced or uber retarded) you know which way you need to go. when you line up the distributer with cylinder 1 ignition lead, take note that when you insert the distributer into the head, the dizzy shaft turns about 1 tooth worth (helical gears i belive is the reason for this). so you can be 1 tooth out (which is 30 degrees..significant) without knowing. so the distributer needs to be lined up with clylinder lead 1 when the distrubuter is all the way in. Quote
coonaPWR Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Posted April 24, 2012 alright man cheers. ill give the light a go :) i got that annoyed last night i litterally tried every tooth lol (wasnt sure if i skipped 1 or 2 so i can't say i tried EVERY tooth.) iv been playing with it all morning and still can't get it to go. its still lumping over just a little quicker now. and all i did was keep trying..? feels like its that loaded up with fuel its just choking out. and i welded up my exhaust mid way through and there must of been shit loads of fuel in there. lol the welder set it alight and i ended up with a huge backfire and flame out the end about a foot away from my face, so that was sweet. lol also, theres still no fire at all while cranking. its only when i let go of the key it does something. cheers, todd. Quote
ke70dave Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 ahhhh.... id be checking your wiring then. got something connected to the "cranking" pin on the ECU? http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/ECU%20Japan%20AE86%204A-GE.htm pin3 on the 10pin plug. though i belive it should still go without that...just hard to start. sounds like something is amiss wiring wise. Quote
coonaPWR Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Posted April 24, 2012 i don't think so. i have the starter wired to a button. so theres bat power to it and the 2 wires to the button. Quote
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