ke20 king Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Posted April 23, 2012 No sure it only runs very rich. I will try tomorrow. Trial n error... Quote
GJM85 Posted April 23, 2012 Report Posted April 23, 2012 No sure it only runs very rich. I will try tomorrow. Trial n error... You were saying it was too lean...? Quote
ke20 king Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Posted April 23, 2012 Yea it was lean, I richen it out alot and ran like that only because the timing was out so much... If I retard it the way I have my carbs set now it will be to rich I will need to put them back where they were all get the timing right. I just want to get it running to take to someone to tune them proplery... I got no idea with carbirs... Quote
ke20 king Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Posted April 23, 2012 Shit so I just went to muck around on it now... Went and did a static time on it and the distributor key way only goes into the cam one way and it the closest I can get to it being tbc and when I time it with a gun it reads like 50 or so degrees out... I don't know much about engines but I'd like to hope I'm doing it wrong... Or am I using the wrong dizzy? I think it's a 4k one is there a difference between a4k n 5k elc dizzy? Quote
styler Posted April 23, 2012 Report Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) Yeah at idle should be about say 12 deg and then as you rev it should go to say 32 deg max. Vac advance not working can also muck things up, timing is always done with vac OFF. Twin carbs don't always run well with vac advance system and also theres manifold and ported vacuum which are different options to add to the confusion! Most dizzys that are cam driven with the oil pump have a slot so can be put in 180 deg out as the slot can be rotated 180 deg to fit in again but usually this misfires really badly. The dizzy has initial range of say 10 - 20 deg when your rotate it for base timing and then the mech advance of say 20 deg for a stock dizzy before it maxes out, so say max 40 deg total. Vacuum pulls extra timing if it's connected when theres a vacuum condition. Don't rev it up with heaps of advance, as the engine will detonate ie ignite too early on the upwards stroke and put extra strain on engine components trying to complete the stroke. Points gap set properly? Not sure if relevant but may be. Edited April 24, 2012 by styler Quote
ke20 king Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Posted April 23, 2012 So if my cam shaft timing is out is that something the engine builder has stuffed up if he put the cam in? Quote
styler Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 Camshafts with aftermarket grinds can also be dialled in... ie purposely set in advance or retard to make optimal power. Another thing to check is that the pulley mark is actually set at TDC with the piston, for the advance timing section on the block. This can be done using a plug stop or dial gauge down the bore to find the TDC. Quote
styler Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 (edited) delete Edited April 24, 2012 by styler Quote
ke20 king Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Posted April 24, 2012 Did all that. Put the dizzy to so it's firing at abou 8-12degrees adv and won't start once I put it at about 30-40 adv it cranks over, it will start but won't idle or run long... I will double check if I have a exhaust leak or carb gaskets are leaking dout it... Any other suggestion or should I take it somewhere? Quote
styler Posted April 25, 2012 Report Posted April 25, 2012 Maybe the marking on your crank pulley is wrong, check that it's actually at TDC. Check the dizzy internals ie that the advance mechanism is all there, connected and not jammed up. Quote
Redwarf Posted April 25, 2012 Report Posted April 25, 2012 Okay. Styler has just reminded me on something. Make sure you are looking at the correct mark. Some K motor pulleys have a mark on the front of the pulley with a line. This is not what you want to be looking at. Look for the notch in the rear of the pulley. If you are alrady looking at the rear mark, forget about what I've said. :) Quote
ke20 king Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Posted April 25, 2012 Yea the mark on the pully was not right I've made my own mark by setting the piston at tdc,., that was the first thing I've done but. Just took my webers off and the one closest to the front had a slight rip in it I think this could of been a problem...??? Quote
Evan G Posted April 25, 2012 Report Posted April 25, 2012 remove cyl 1 spark plug and put a long screw driver in it, slowly turn the engine over anf watch the screw driver when it comes up and ready to go down. this will a rough guess where tdc is. Quote
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