Ke30 Suspension

[Sephiroth]

Hey guys just sorted all my rear suspension sorted out and I'm working my way onto the front been reading heaps on putting sigma LCA's into a ke30 for 2 - 2 1/2 neg which is a bit dramatic for a daily anything some one can recommend and what's involved to fit them

[tunsafun321]

wind the nuts on the radius rods (caster rods) towards the back of the car as far as you can for some caster, king springs and camber tops (which will give you 0 degrees camber without lcas) and thats all u can really do without getting dramatic (ie changing LCA's)

[Sephiroth]

wind the nuts on the radius rods (caster rods) towards the back of the car as far as you can for some caster, king springs and camber tops (which will give you 0 degrees camber without lcas) and thats all u can really do without getting dramatic (ie changing LCA's)

 

I read some where that ke25 LCA's are a couple mm longer but there wasn't enough info on the subject I don't mind changing LCA's I'd just prefer maybe 1 - 1 1/2 neg

 

At the moment I've done the castor and I'm using a spare set of struts that I have cold pressed I chucked the ke on the aligner and I'm 0.4 neg

 

And for springs I'm unsure car is currently lowered 2 1/2 inch front and back but has choppies in the front king springs only have a

30 mm lower option and where would I get camber tops do they have to be custom made

 

Thanks tunsoffun

[towe001]

At the moment I've done the castor

You've also dialled in what could be called "active" camber

Positive castor increases the amount of negative camber that occurs during cornering, which means that the outside tyre ends up being closer to vertical than it otherwise would have been. This means better cornering grip. However, unlike simply dialing-in negative camber, positive castor brings no problems in relation to longitudinal grip, tramlining or tyre wear. The only ill-effect is slightly increased steering effort - and this shouldn't be a problem on cars with power steering.

From Autospeeds - Beginners' Guide to Front-End Angles, Part 2

 

My question - why do you want to go so low for ?

[Sephiroth]

I only gave her a couple of turns I am aware of active camber but I'm going to be replacing all the bushes and steering arms so want to figure out my camber options and do a proper alignment don't see the point in having more than 2neg cuz I'll just be destroing tyres

 

And the car was already lowered 2inch but had flipped leaves and cut springs I've got 1 1/2 inch reset leaves with 2extra leaves 1inch blocks had the front eyes opened up a bit with custom kelpro bushes and nolathane shackle bushes so she's nice and stiff in the rear but sloppy in the front end

[ke70dave]

soooo....what are you asking?

 

if you are asking about camber tops, the problem arises that there isnt much room in the strut tower for the strut to move (with the camber top) before it hits the side of the strut tower.

 

gotta for for a skinier spring option, which is usually done by going the coilover route.

[towe001]

ke70 struts are narrower than ke3x/5x.

The only thing that needs to be changed is the top hats (aka bearing plates)

 

The ball joints on the sigma arms are a bigger diameter so the holes on the steering arms have to be hogged out.

[Sephiroth]

 

soooo....what are you asking?

 

I'm just looking at what my camber options are I would prefer less than what sigma arms give you but if that is the only option than if I want camber that's the way I will have to go I basically want to do everything in one go bushes shock inserts springs everything

 

My car had a pretty horrible combo cut springs flipped leaves fecked shocks and a locked diff I'm sure you can imagine how uncomfortable it was

[springersrolla]

don't waste your time with anything other than rebushing your front end first!!! check your tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm. For ʞ©$ɟsake change tierods if they have slop they are too cheap to skint on!!!. replace them first if they are sloppy. drive your car to the wreckers, find a gh sigma, take a 14,17mm spanner, can't remember, a few other duplicate sockets and other sizes, undo nuts, take lcas, walk into your local discount parts shop, buy ball joints and bushes. bushes will need crush tube and bush grinded/filed/cut down until they fit into ke crossmember, your ke steering arms will dodgely fit to gh sigma ball joints, i reamed mine out slighty with emery unitl i gained approx 3mm more shaft to steering arm hole clearance, then ran loctite on them, fit lcas to your freshly rebushed front end, buy or borrow a dienut the same as your castor rods, run it down another 2inches at least, buy new castor bushes. refit and line up your castor to the best of your judgement and limp to a wheel alignment shop eg; pedders, tell them you want as much castor as you can get before the tyre scrubs the front of your guard.

 

drive home knowing that the front end is the best it will handle for minimal dollars and then save for coilovers, adjustable strut tops, etc

 

your ke30 will never handle like a gokart but its easy and cheap to make it much better than standard. get yourself some later model struts with bigger brakes and enjoy the ancient shit with handling with newer brakes.

[Sephiroth]

Thanks springersrolla I know not to skimp out on safety that's the reason why I'm doing my suspension before my motor

 

the bonus is I'm a 4th year mech apprentice so I get all my parts fairly cheap I'm not doing my setup on a budget I just spent over $700 on my rear

 

So from what I understand I'm pretty limited to the camber issue so I'll have to go GH sigma LCA's sigma bushes?? Trim the inner bush to fit and use sigma ball joint but it has a larger taper so reem her out a little and ke castor rod bushes new tie rods links arms bearings brakes and so on