4K-C Carbie Turbo

[SLW42]

Up here in qld the lowest legal height we can have is 100mm at the lowest point of the car, I.e the exhaust can't sit lower than 100mm,

all my keto's and all my falcons always sat on or just above it at the sills, so god knows how much lower the exhaust used to hang haha

 

It looks like the car is coming along now man keep at it and it will be done before you know it

[4k-t]

Thanks mate, the plan is to have the car done by my bday. 6-6-12. the big 25.... no turbo or p plate mod restrictions. :P

 

Quick update. I went to u tug it and got a carby hat and vl external fuel pump. However the run about ke70 decided that brake were not needed. The Maters cylinder gave up and took the booster with it. Mind you this happened while my sister was driving down our drive way. Luckly she jumped on the Drift brake and missed the house by a foot. Gravel didnt help :P While I was at it did a tune and service. Found the points were F'ed so in went the new set that was bought for the turbo. Purring like a kitten now. Swapped the booster and kitted the master and It stops too.

[4k-t]

I Sorted the orientation of the turbo today. Started putting the water lines on and the oil feed on and cut the length.

 

Its a tight fit with the outlet on the comp side just misses the body. About 10mm in it.

 

Also got a carby hat off of a mitsi van. it sits nice and snug on the stock carby. :D using the stock rubber seal.

 

I Also modded some of my old RX7 camber tops to suit the ke70. I lined up the 0degre mark to where the strut sits normally. I also positioned the strut alittle further back for more caster.

 

From this:

 

To this:

 

That is at it max setting foe shits and giggles. I'm Happy with the result. They will be sprayed black for stealth.

 

Oil fittings:

 

It is getting close to starting. Need to get fuel lines and another brass fitting for the fuel reg.Even doing it on the cheap it adds up. But do it right the first time.

[SLW42]

Where did you score the oil t piece.... Could you please link me to it?

 

How long till 1st start up?

[4k-t]

I got the oil t piece from Autobarn. They are made by Drift as a gauge adaptor. Part number "D1-230036". http://www.shopdrift.com Is the website. In short says AutoPro or Autobarn for drift products in Australia. or maybe Ebay

 

The brass barbed fittings were also bought from Autobarn. Just took my oil pressure sensor in to match thread and came out with the bits I needed.

 

Hopefully it will be running by my Bday on the 6th of June. The budget is slowing me down the most.

 

I got my fuel pressure gauge today.

 

Once I have set the fuel pressure I will be using it as my boost gauge.

[Taz_Rx]

Hey would a 7ke bottom radiator hose be any use to you?

It has a smaller 10-12mm line that goes out of it half way that goes the ICS.

 

Pic in this schematic....

 

 

 

Edited May 21, 2012 by Taz_Rx

[4k-t]

I don't think I would gain any thing from it. I have the water line fittings already. One is in the thermostat housing and the other is in the heater hose. Both are pictured above. But thank you for the thought.

[Taz_Rx]

All good, though I'd offer

[4k-t]

that the setup that you are using Taz_Rx? I would probably look neater then mine but I already had the stuff to T into the heater return hose.

[SLO-030]

My setup runs 1 in each heater hose that goes back to the firewall. Not sure if that'd make it neater in an E7?

[4k-t]

In this pic is how I Have it set up. One line from the thermostat housing and the other to the heater hose on the carbie side of the motor.

You can see the fitting sticking out of the heater hose in the above pic. It is just below the fuel line to the carbie.

 

So over all it will be neat. Having a look at it today, either way would be neat. In the long run a stock e70 radiator is cheaper to replace ;)

[Taz_Rx]

that the setup that you are using Taz_Rx? I would probably look neater then mine but I already had the stuff to T into the heater return hose.

 

Nah mines all speedflow stuff inline with the heater.

[4k-t]

I got a chance to work on the car today. I now have the tank remounted with the wires for the fuel pump run from the pump to the inside of the boot. I ran out of hose clamps so the back end is still sky high. I don't trust the std clamps so it will have to wait till i get some more hose clamps.

 

I did the wiring for the oil pressure sensor. I ran the wire through a hole i punched in the speedo cable grommet. I also wired up the starter and ran the wires to where the battery will be. mounted the starter rely next to the cooling fan rely. Wired it up to the trigger wire over by where the old battery used to be. The Wires leading to the starter now run over the bell housing and then between the motor and engine mount. It still the original wires just rerouted.

 

Setup the electronic dizzy I picked up. It is ready to go in, just waiting on a new oring to suit. Big thanks to basher_20. Pulled it to bits and removed the advance weights. I reinstalled the springs instead of wiring it because it was fiddly and I hate fiddly. Also, it has no weight so nothing should act against the springs.Put it all back together and cut the plug off, made up wires and plus to the coil. The coil is out of my old EXA Turbo n12, It should do the trick. Removed the ballast resister. Turned out that the dizzy was a 5k internal igniter model. Made it easy to wire up, just two wires from the dizzy to the coil. Black (ground) & Black w/ Orange stripe (+12v).

 

Started to take of the timming cover so I can put the modified one on. I Decided that I wanted the turbo oil return in the timing cover and not the sump. Its closer to the turbo and higher up the side of the motor. I was talking to my old man about it and what his thoughts were. About an hour or so of us looking at the spare timming cover and talking and scratching our heads he said "leave it with me". A couple of days latter I got back a timming cover with a oil return in it. I have pic some where, when I find them I'll put them up.

 

The problem. I have put some thought into the fuel system and going EFI. Wiring it up is not an issue, its just power and earth triggered by ignition. Simple. But what if I stack it and rupture a fuel line. Unless I turn the ignition off the fuel will keep pumping. Not great if there is fire and I"m unconscious. Not Good!!!! So I want to have it wired into the oil light switch so if there is no oil pressure then there is no power to the pump. The fuel in the fuel bowl will be plenty to start the car. Once started or while cranking the electric pump would then start pumping. But if I crash the pump stops on its own once the motor stalls.

 

Any ideas would be great.

 

Another thought, I think it is law that the pump has to stop in such a case (crash/leak).

If not it should be, after all it seems like common sense to me.

 

Keith

[4k-t]

 

The oil return into the timing cover. The screws are counter sunk to clear the timing chain.

[Taz_Rx]

With efi the fuel pump is triggered off the ecu. No rotation = no fuel.