Need Help

[altezzaclub]

OK- picture.. this is the model after yours I'd say, it has the square diaphram accelerator pump and not the piston on an arm.

 

The needle and seat need to be very clean, and they come out of the top part of the carb.

 

The jets are where the air is drawn in, the vertical ones in the center, and where the fuel is drawn in, in the bottom of the bowl. There are one of each for each carb throat as I remember, but I haven't seen a stock carb for a couple of years.

 

The idle mixture is the tapered screw in the base, easy to remove and hose solvent into the hole.

 

There's no reason to pull enything else apart, basically look for any brass fitting, undo it and squirt solvent down the hole. The syringe full of petrol worked great with my Datsun carb last month, it had been dry for years and was full of gunk in the drillings.

Edited April 5, 2012 by altezzaclub

[jara]

thanks altezza, I'll go get the points, rotor, capacitor and maaaaybe a new cap. depends on the price of things. but I'm a little hesitant on doing the timing.

 

I think i'll wait until i have someone to give me a hand with the carby though, and thanks guys for the warning on this toxic stuff. I'll definately be careful. Not gonna skip the safety stuff cause it isnt 'cool' or whatever.

 

thanks guys, this is stuff i learn for life and will no doubt save me issues time and time again

[jara]

didnt see the second page, doesnt sound too difficult. next time i visit the father in law, i'll show him this stuff and get him just to make sure i'm not ʞ©$ɟing anything up. cheers

[jara]

got the point, rotor and condenser. hesitant putting them cause then i'll have to do the timing. maybe teddy is free tomorrow

[oldie]

Just picking up on the point you said about the centre pin of the distributor cap being worn flat-aren't these pins meant to be spring loaded and extend out quite a way so that they exert pressure on the top contact of the rotor button,you didnt mention,I don't think,whether this pin springs in and out on your cap,if it doesnt then I would suggest also a new cap as it is probably worn to far down to be effective.I realise that you said it will start and idle ok so this may be irrelevant but just thought I would pop it out there for thought..

[jara]

thanks, thought it was meant to pop out but cause no one pointed it out, I guessed it was ok, i'll pick one up next time I'm out

[altezzaclub]

Mine sticks out about 4mm and is easy to push back in. That's almost new so if yours is less than 2mm I'd say its pretty gone.

[oldie]

can get expensive,time consuming and very frustrating trying to sort out stupid little niggles but the point is you really just have to pick a place to start and then work your way through the simple things first then dig a bit deeper.hope it sorts itself out soon for you..

[jara]

will the car still run and not break down if i don't do the timing after putting in new points?

if not, is there a video on how to do the timing without the light?

[jara]

  Quote

5. Yep- you can do it without a light, just set the crankshaft on the 8deg timing mark and turn the ignition on. Take the dizzy cap off & loosen the clamp a little, and rotate it first backwards a whisker then forwards. As the points open you will see a spark and hear a 'crack'. Do it a few times to get it just where the spark occurs, and that means it will fire at 8deg BTDC.

 

i hope that's how you quote.

 

anyway, I'm going to have to do the timing by myself. when you say 'lossen the clamp' what clamp are you talking about? and moving it backwards and forwards i assume you mean moving the belts to make the rotor rotate. and how do i set the crankshaft to the 8deg?

[altezzaclub]

It should run after you fit new points, however the change in points gap alters the timing, so it need to be re-set. One side of the points burns to a hollow crater, depositing metal on the other side which grows to a volcano. That's why you file points flat occasionally, or replace them, or get an electronic replacement that does away with points altogether.

 

Now, the clamp is the bracket that hold the dizzy in place, it clamps it down onto the motor. If you back the bolt off you will be able to turn the dizzy left and right.. You don't want it loose, you want it just slackened off enough to turn the dizzy.

 

The rotor turns clockwise, which you can check by looking at the plug leads, it fires cyl one, then cyl three, then 4etc. So each time it fires, a square corner on the rotor shaft opens the points then goes past the rubbing block of the points and they close again. So if you turn the dizzy clockwise, the same direction the rotor goes in, it retards the ignition timing. If you turn the dizzy (and hence the points rubbing block) anti-clockwise, it meets the rotor shaft corner earlier and advances the ignition.

 

All you have to do is set the crankshaft pulley with its timing marks to 8deg or 10deg. Some cars have notches cut in the pulley at various degrees and one mark on the cam cover, some have one notch in the pulley and a series of marks on the cam cover. The KE70 has that. When you slowly rotate the crankshaft with the dizzy cap & the rotor off you can see the rotor shaft rotate and the points open and close. You want the crank to stop at 8deg by turning the motor clockwise, the way the motor usually runs. If you turn the crank backwards to catch that mark it will be out a few degrees due to the slack in the dizzy gears. In the photo you can see I marked the pulley notch with white and the 0deg mark so they are easy to see. Rotate the crank pulley until you have the notch at 8deg and the rotor pointing to number one plug lead. The crank notch will line up for number 4cyl too, but you might as well use cyl 1.

 

With your pulley on 8deg you can turn on the key and rotate the dizzy clockwise so the points are just closed, then rotate it anticlockwise so the points just open. You should see the spark and hear it "crack". Move it back and forth a couple of times until you have it just open and no more. You probably won't even see the gap.

 

Then tighten the dizzy clamp bolt up. You're done.

 

Its dead easy and you can check it anytime with a timing ligt.

Edited April 6, 2012 by altezzaclub

[jara]

wow thanks, Doesnt sounds too difficult, It's driving fine for now, but I'll definitely do the timing tomorrow. also, that bolt in the photo, i tried turning mine and it was loose. it didnt turn the belt like i thought it would

[altezzaclub]

Woo! That's not right!

 

OK, that 19mm bolt holds the fan belt pulley onto the crankshaft and should be TIGHT. In fact 65NM, the same as the cylinder head bolts. You should have the car in 4th with the handbrake on and swing on that bolt, preferably with a torque wrench. Hopefully you meant the belt was loose and not the bolt in the crankshaft!

 

If it doesn't turn the fan belt, it suggests the belt is too loose. There should be about 10mm deflection if you push on the belt with your thumb, or you hear the belt squeal any time you rev it.

[jara]

well i tightened it up with a regular wrench, but when i was at my father in law's and we did the timing, he said after setting it to 8 degrees, to rotate the dizzy and align the middle of the rotor with the middle of the first cylinder, rather than taking note of the points. is this ok? or should i re-do it on my own?

seems to be going nice though.

 

although after a long trips and a 5 minute break, it doesnt like to start up very quickly again.

[altezzaclub]

  Quote

is this ok?

 

I don't know. Just check that it lines up on number one as the points open. It would be firing too late if it lined up the rotor after the points opened, you might have 4deg BTDC rather than 8..

 

Another old way of setting timing is to drive it at 60kph in 4th gear and floor the accelerator. If it doesn't knock then advance it and try it again. Keep going until it pinks doing that. In reality, that is what we are after- the maximum advance the engine can take without being detrimental. If it is too advanced it kicks back on cranking and gets that distinctive knocking sound when you accelerate hard going up a hill in a high gear, ie. 4th instead of 3rd, or using 3rd in town around intersections instead of 2nd.

 

So play with it a few mm on the dizzy either way and find a spot where it feels good for you. The 'best' timing varies from motor to motor as it depend on the octane of the fuel, the temperature of the day, how warmed up the engine is, the compression ratio and what revs you drive at. More advance is needed for higher revs, as the pistons move faster and the air moves faster but that the fire burns at the same speed. So you need to light the fire earlier to get all the fuel burnt before the exhaust opens and dumps it. At lower revs timing can be later, hence the mechanical advance system that advances the spark through those weights in the dizzy, and the 'advance curve' each car has. 95octane will allow more advance without pinking than 91regular, and I've got three cars that all use 95 now. It helps that 95with 10% ethanol from the United station is cheaper in Orange than 91octane!

 

Look it up on Google, & there is some explanation in my build thread.

Edited April 9, 2012 by altezzaclub