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Posted

so I'll make sure that when the rotor hits cyl 1, the points juuuuust start to open?

It's only a 3sp auto.... really should have gotten a manual though.

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Posted

hmm.. make it "just as the points open the rotor hits cylinder one.

 

I imagine it fires within milliseconds of the points opening, so there's not much in it. See how it is set up at the moment, it must be pretty close to what we're talking about.

 

If you fit a manual box you'll be surprised how much quicker it feels. For a start you lose about 50Kg in weight under the car!

Posted (edited)

normally everyone who's touched my car (including me) has used the fan to rotate the engine, but the other day when i tried, the fan would rotate but the belt wouldn't. but yesterday gave it another shot and it did. the points juuuust start to open once it hits cyl 1?

 

(wait... so the car needs to be in accessory to rotate the motor?)

 

and this morning on a cold winter morning, it took 3 goes with the choke fully on to get started so i could warm it up. is there anything i can do to help this?

Edited by jara
Posted
(wait... so the car needs to be in accessory to rotate the motor?)

 

nope- but car needs to be in neutral to rotate it ! :laff: Actually the auto will be different, you can probably rotate it in 'drive'.

 

OK- so when we have the points gap & timing right, we should be getting a good spark at the right time. Poor spark comes from a weak coil, too open or too closed points, or a weak condenser, late or early spark from timing incorrect, no spark comes from one of those things broken or a dizzy cap/lead shortout, or a dud plug.

 

That leaves carb. Take off the air filter and check the choke and throttle. The throttle is usally OK, it sits on the idle screw for a minimum but make sure the cable pulls the butterfly right open on full throttle. The choke should be wide open when you take the filter off, and make sure it closes completely when you pull the knob.

 

Now, what happens when it doesn't start?? Does it not fire at all and just crank over and over? Does it cough when you are cranking it but not catch? Does it start to run then dies?

Posted

when it doesnt start, i can hear its not just cranking and cranking, theres a little bit of firing, but just no enough power to get it going fully. it takes a few goes and i fear of flooding it. in the case of it being flooded, do i just need to wait a couple minutes?

 

also, to clarify something, to note when the rotor is hitting cylinder 1, I marked on the dizzy the centre of the lead plug of the cap. so just as the rotor passes this, the points open. will i need to fine tune this when getting a new cap? cause I'm going to pick one up after lunch. cause that bit in the middle that is meant to be out 4mm, mine isnt out at all

Posted (edited)

in case of flooding,

 

foot flat to the floor, and keep on craking.

 

keep in mind its an old engine, from `1975. On a cold winters morning, it is going to struggle.

 

if you need to drive for 2mins with the choke on, so be it, thats what it is there for.

Edited by ke70dave
Posted (edited)
will i need to fine tune this when getting a new cap?

 

Nope- all caps are the same. Make sure the cutout in the cap fits the tab on the dizzy (to make sure it only goes on one way round) and then put the leads in the same order.

 

A new cap might solve the problem for you.

 

Do a compression test, if the valves are burnt it won't want to start.

 

 

 

.... Drive it out to Dave's with a slab of beers and let him look at it!

Edited by altezzaclub
Posted

I work in eagle farm,

 

so chermside isnt that far away.

 

I dunno how much use i can be though, especially since the K masters Teddy and medicine man has already looked at it yeah?

 

A compression test will tell all on this one i think. Thats where i would start anyway.

Posted

medicine man only had a little look and teddy didnt get a chance to cause the thing wasnt starting for him (i think he dirtied up the points with sandpaper shavings)

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